Scary sharp help

[Richard Dooling]

I have had good results using the scary sharp system but have been frustrated with the rapid wear of finer grit papers. I am using Klingspor adhesive backed paper on plate glass. The 2000 grit paper especially seems to show significant wear almost immediately.
Any paper recommendations? Alternately I’m thinking of getting a Spyderco stone for final honing.
Thoughts - thanks.

[Craig Johnson]

I use WD-40 to aid in sharpening with all my sandpapers.
It seems to lessen the wear as opposed to water.
Just spray some on your sheet and go from there.
Respray as needed.
Works for me.

[Terry Brogan]

I stop at 1500 <g>. OTT, I spray 3m 77 adhesive and buy the plain paper--it's cheaper. Razor the paper and the adhesive off when it gets dull.

[Carl Maeda-San Diego]

I stop at 600 grit and it works for me. Maybe I'll try going farther but my sandpapers last a pretty long time.
I also have the Spyderco sharpening system. It is really good at sharpening my router bits and knives but I prefer scary sharp for my plane irons and chisels.

[Dominic Greco]

I stop at 600 grit and it works for me. Maybe I'll try going farther but my sandpapers last a pretty long time.
I also have the Spyderco sharpening system. It is really good at sharpening my router bits and knives but I prefer scary sharp for my plane irons and chisels.

I have my SS set up so that the last grit I use is 800. I tried going all the way up to 2000 but found it was a bit overkill. Especially if I followed with honing using LV's Veritas Green Honing Compound.

Case in point: My buddy came over this past weekend and we rehabbed a big old wooden jointer he got from his Dad. While he worked on that, I cleaned up a coffin smoother and an extra Buck Brothers Iron. After we sharpened with my SS system, we honed the irons and were able to shave end grain pine transluently thin.

[Rob Luter]

I use 3M abrasive films instead of sandpaper. They are available at TFWW. (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Produ ct_Code=ST-MAF.XX&Category_Code=THS) I buy the 5 sheet sample packs. I made 5 sharpening blocks by first gluing 1/4" x 2 3/4" x 11" float glass to 1" MDF. The abrasive film goes down on top of the glass after a light misting with rubbing alcohol. This makes it easy to get rid of air bubbles. I used the PSA variety of film to get uniform adhesive thickness but many apply their own. I find the film lasts a good long while. I usually wind up changing the most often used grits every few months. I get three uses from an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of film and it's worked out to be very cost effective, about a buck a month.

When I sharpen I add a few drops of water to the surface and wipe everything off when done. A few strokes on each grit will bring an edge back in a real hurry.

[Brian Kent]

I use the same as Rob.

The only different is I use one 12 x 12 polished granite tile, with all 5 grits in strips on the same tile. I put 4 across and one the other direction at the top. I can use a little mineral oil that lifts the metal dust off the micro-abrasives.

[Ben Rafael]

I dont use paper beyond 600. After that I use stones, 1000 then 5000.

[Douglas Brummett]

I dabble in scary sharp from time to time. I actually was honing up a plane iron this weekend. For kicks I decided to play around newspaper as the strop. I had picked up some 2000g w/d recently to check out. Near as I can tell there is no real advantage of 2000g over 1000g w/d that they sell at the automotive stores (3M I believe). The 1000g cuts better and breaks down to about the same grit fairly quick. I noticed that the 2000g really only excelled in getting clogged fast. I think coming off 1000g and stropping works just as well.

Oh and green paste on news print works very well. Just be sure to only pull or you will rip/tear it.

[Richard Dooling]

I’m happy with scary sharp up to 800 grit and then 1200 is basically OK. At 2000 grit the flatness is a bit of an issue but the rapid wear is a deal killer. Rob I will give the 3M films a shot when I run out of my current stock.

As far as adhering sheets I have started using a J-roller like formica mechanics use. I barely apply a spot on the paper to hold it in place and then use the roller moving from the center out. This has virtually eliminated bubbles. I also picked up an inch and a half Stanley chisel from Blue Borg for $10.00 and this gives me much better leverage for removal. Then the razor just gets used for adhesive cleanup.

I just ordered the black Spyderco stone so I’ll see how I like that approach. I do like the idea of a final honing system that does not wear out quickly. If I like the dark Spyderco I’ll look at the fine stone. I'll use sandpaper for rough work and for basic sharpening and the ceramics for honimg.

Having said that, I am getting better at freehand working the edges but I’m still using guides to establish the primary bevel. I’ve run into some nice deals on some old planes recently and I’m trying to get the basic re-hab work done before it warms up enough to do what this is all really about – making shavings. Most of these blades have to go to the grinder first because the bevels are literally all over the place. I’m impressed with the thickness of some of these old blades, especially some Sargent steel that comes in at 3/32”. If only the backs were flat – cause that’s one big old PITA.

I’m also playing with the green honing compound but have not settled on a surface I care for – maybe an old belt. The leather I have now seems too soft. It might be OK for a knife but I don’t want to round the edge on a plane iron.

A couple of questions:
Is there a real world advantage to float glass vs plate glass?
Should I cut tails first or pins? Doh!
I’d like to weigh all the words written about dovetails and all the thoughts on sharpening just to see which gets discussed more!


Thanks for all the input guys!

[Rob Luter]

Rob I will give the 3M films a shot when I run out of my current stock.

You'll like them.

Is there a real world advantage to float glass vs plate glass?

It's the same thing. Plate glass is made with the Float process. I call it float glass because I'm in the window industry and that's just what we call it.

Should I cut tails first or pins?

Tails

I’d like to weigh all the words written about dovetails and all the thoughts on sharpening just to see which gets discussed more!

That would be like counting grains of sand on the beach.

[Jim Koepke]

Is there a real world advantage to float glass vs plate glass?

It's the same thing. Plate glass is made with the Float process. I call it float glass because I'm in the window industry and that's just what we call it.

That is what I thought also, until reading this:

http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/...93/plate-glass

They could be in error. I use a granite slab so I do not have to worry as much about such things.

Should I cut tails first or pins? Doh!

What ever works best for your way of working. One is not more correct than the other.

jim

[Rob Luter]

That is what I thought also, until reading this:

http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/...93/plate-glass

They could be in error. I use a granite slab so I do not have to worry as much about such things.



jim

Our company uses several million pounds of glass annually, all produced using the float process. I'm not aware of anyone using the old process, or anywhere (other than perhaps an "art glass" producer) where glass made with the old "plate" process is available.

[John Keeton]

I’m also playing with the green honing compound but have not settled on a surface I care for – maybe an old belt. The leather I have now seems too soft. It might be OK for a knife but I don’t want to round the edge on a plane iron.

Someone posted here a few days ago that using the green compound on a block of mdf with a bit of mineral oil works great for final honing. I picked up some and am going to give it a try. Seems like an easy addition to my scary sharp board.

[Bruce Haugen]

John,
one advantage of using MDF or poplar or something like that as the surface for your honing compound is that you are able to cut a profile using a plane and then sharpen the same blade on it. This works really well for hollows and rounds or profile cutters.

Bruce