Acclimating lumber

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Well guys.....I bought my cherry lumber yesterday. About 26 bd.ft. IIRC ...cost me $273 with state sales tax.

I ordered and received Norms plans for Martha's Candle Stand. The LOML likes it better than the standard Shaker style candle stand.

The place where I bought the cherry was covered but unheated. I moved the kiln dried cherry into my 65º F shop yesterday afternoon. Since it's kiln dried....would it be wise to let it acclimate for a few days or can I start ripping and gluing up the spindle stock?

[Mark Norman]

Start gluin and cuttin

[Jeff Heil]

Depending on how long it was stored in the cooler unheated area it probably picked up some moisture and it would be prudent to allow it to acclimate a few days and check the moisture content. Of course it depends on your climate and how dry the kiln operator dried it to begin with.

I usually try to move rough kiln dried stock into my shop for a few weeks before surfacing it and using it. You would probably be okay after a couple of days, cut a sample board and see where you are at.

[David Christopher]

Ken, Ive allways been told to let it acclamate, I do know if you buy hardwood flooring no one will put it down unless it has been in the house for a few days....unless you are in a hurry I would wait a day or two

[James Hart]

Oh, sorry....I thought you were asking about accumulating lumber.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

At $9.70 a bd ft....I think I'll wait until next Friday night to think about cutting and gluing. It was stored in a lumber yard 30 miles north and 3000' higher in elevation. Their temperatures are colder and their humidity is higher than here in the Valley so.......next Friday night I'll consider cutting and gluing. Then I could actually be turning and assemblying over the weekend.

[george wilson]

Let it acclimate for some weeks to be safe.

[Mike Cutler]

Ken

Give it at least a week, if not longer. Longer is better. If you really need to get rolling, cut your pieces a little oversized, width, and allow them to stabilize a bit, and then cut to the final dimension.
Seal all ends that won't be cut for some time to slow down the process.

[Bruce Page]

I've always let it sit for at least a week before any miling. At close to $10 BF, why take a chance?

[george wilson]

If the wood is expensive,and the project is important,a few months won't hurt. When making a cooper's 4"X4" X6' jointer plane,we started out with a beechwood 6"X6". it was dry,but kept in an unheated attic. It took about 8 months of periodic re squaring of that 6x6,which kept going into a twist,to finally get it to stay straight. By that time,we had reduced it over the months to the required 4x4.

It's not just a matter of how dry the wood is,it's also that the wood has to stress relieve as it adjusts to the new indoor climate. It can warp as well as shrink. Gradually thinning it out is wise.

This was thick wood,but I can tell you that you may see your project looking bad later,unless you wait long enough. I keep ready wood in my acclimated shop. If I must bring in new wood,even for shelving,I wait weeks,or longer.

I laid a floor from dry 6' wide hard pine years ago. This was kiln dried wood,yet,eventually,there were 1/8" gaps between the laid flooring. I hadn't the time to wait for the new floor.

[Heather Thompson]

Ken,

I am no pro but I have to agree with George Wilson, when I attended a very well respected woodworking school, they would buy wood months in advance of use and keep it in the shop before considering it's use in projects. If the LOYL wants a nice piece, she will understand, good things are not created overnight. I actually buy pieces of wood when I see them with no project in mind, if the wood is beautiful it will tell you when the project is there. I have a piece of air dried cherry that I built a table with in 05, the rest has not found it's voice yet, although I hear it clearing it's throat at times. I would never rush a project, it always ends up in regret, be patient and it will pay in spades.

Heather

[Howard Acheson]

I just want to make the point that temperature acclimation is not really the relevent issue. It's acclimating the moisture content of the wood to the new enviroment. The primary factor is the different relative humidity of the new environment verses the old environment. It's changes in moisture content that cause wood movement and warpage.

Unless you have access to a moisture meter, you have no idea what the moisture content of your wood is. Therefore, I would probably give it at least a month--or better two--properly stacked and stickered with good air flow around it.

[george wilson]

Temperature acclimation would be accomplished overnight,but the sudden drying of the outer surfaces cause tension,warpage,etc.