Delta Cabinet saw

[Jerome Hanby]

Are all Delta cabinet style table Saws Unisaws? May have just found one of those mythical used Unisaws for a super low price and wanted to know if there was something in particular to look for. Pictures look like a Unisaw, description list it as at least 2 HP (funny symbol after the 2 may have been a 1/2 symbol in some fonts). Seller didn't seem familar with the term Unisaw.

[Richard Bell CA]

Jerome:

I seem to recall a saw Delta built awhile back (maybe 15 years ago) that was between the contractors saw and the Unisaw. It was a cabinet style saw with a 2 HP motor that sold for around $1K. If I get a chance later today, I'll see if I have any references.

Richard

[Ray Dockrey]

To add what Richard said I think it was called a Delta Tilting Arbor Saw and it was the precursor to today's hybrids. If it is a Unisaw it will say so on the front of it. I did some searching and here is a review that a guy did from 2004. I don't know how accurate it is but he seems to know what he was talking about.

"I own one of these. It was a saw in search of an
identity. Consumer stupidity did it in. Here's what it
was. It was a Contractor's saw on steroids. It came with
a 2hp, 220volt motor, full cabinet, magnetic switch and
it weighed 300lbs. New, it sold for $1,100.00. I bought
mine used for $850.00 from a guy who needed the money
because he was going through a tough divorce. I knew it
was breaking his heart to sell it, buy ya gotta do what ya
gotta do.

It came in 3 flavors. 36-755 was the basic machine.
36-751 ( mine ) came with a 30 inch Unifence and 36-752
came with a 52 inch Unifence. Here's what killed it. Too
many people mistook it for a Unisaw- what it was never
intended to be. It was betwixt and between. The poor
thing never found its niche. It was a step above the
Contractors model and a step below the Unisaw. Hence, the
dilemma. Like New Jersey, it sought its place in the
hierarchy of machines and never quite found it."

[Jerome Hanby]

I haven't seen it in the flesh yet, but comparing it to pictures on the old woodworking site, I'm guessing it's from around 1960. Here is a picture.

[Richard Bell CA]

Ray is correct, it was called the 10" Tilting Arbor Saw. I found an ad for it in the April 1991 issue of Fine Woodworking, where it was advertised as a new model. The blade tilt handle is on the right side, like the contractors saw. I think they considered it an upgrade from the older Model 10 Tilting Arbor Saw, which looked like a Contractors saw, but had some upgrades similar to the Unisaw (cast iron extension wings, T miter slots, etc). None of them are in the same league as the Unisaw, and I would agree with the review above.

That said, the saw in your picture is definitely not the saw we discussed - it appears to be a Unisaw. Ask the seller to provide the information on the nameplate (model and serial number). You can get the year of manufacture for a number of machines by entering the serial number on the Old Woodworking Machine site. If it is a 1960's vintage, it is prior to the point where Delta started producing more consumer oriented equipment.

Richard

[Kirk Poore]

I haven't seen it in the flesh yet, but comparing it to pictures on the old woodworking site, I'm guessing it's from around 1960. Here is a picture.

Yes, that's a Unisaw. Great potential for restoration. Probably needs new bearings and belts besides a general cleanup and painting.

Edit: Make sure you ask for the fence, since it seems to be missing.

Kirk

[Jerome Hanby]

I've got an Incra TS-III system that I would want to mount up, so maybe a missing fence would give me a bargaining chip

I'm taking my dial indicator with me so I can get some feel for the run out. Any other particulars to look (or look out) for?

[Jerome Hanby]

Plus, it turns out, this saw belongs to one of my neighbors down the road. If I can't pick it up, I could probably roll it home.

[Mike Heidrick]

I owned a 1993 36-752 Delta 10" tilting arbor saw. Not a Unisaw! All the Unisaw bolts-ons fit it perfectly (splitters etc) though. It was a nice saw. Sold mine used for $850 to a boy in Chicago.

[Pete Bradley]

I
I'm taking my dial indicator with me so I can get some feel for the run out. Any other particulars to look (or look out) for?

Short of a bent shaft (very unlikely), there's not much to measure with a dial indicator. Bad bearings can have little runout and this machine needs bearings anyway. What you definitely should bring is a flashlight.

What does matter:

• Check for broken teeth in the raise and tilt mechanisms. and check that the tilt stop isn't broken off. Used replacement parts are available but not cheap.
• Check for cracked castings: the table, the guts, and especially the arbor yoke. If possible take the top off.
• Handwheels, lock knobs, and the little brass pins from the locking mechanism are surprisingly expensive. Make sure knobs are present and handwheels lock or reduce price accordingly.
• Make sure the motor pulley runs true on the shaft. If not it's evidence that it's been spun or wallowed. Once again, replaceable, but...
• Are electricals such as the starter good? Is the motor single phase? It surely needs new wire, but new starter, motor, or VFD will cost money
• Make sure the bearings haven't spun (loose on shaft or in yoke) or you'll need a new one.

The point of this inventory is not to write off the saw, but to determine what the total cost will be. Figure out what you want the total to be. Subtract the cost of belts, bearings, wire, and $75 worth of stuff you missed when you checked it out. That's your starting value. Now subtract the cost of the items above as you find them, knock off another $50 for stuff you didn't think of yet, and you're close to an offer price where you won't lose your shirt. You'll probably be surprised by how low the number is. Stick to your guns and don't be afraid to explain your offer to the seller.

About the only thing I'd walk away from is a Uni that's had the cabinet all cut up or one that's been abused (e.g. used as an anvil, hit by a forklift, etc.)

Looking at your picture, this is a Uni, looks to be 3-phase, it's got a whole lot of miles on it, and you're missing a lock knob. Assuming no other major issues and since you have a fence, you're going to have to pay around $350 to finish at $800. Realistically you probably need to pay lower.

Pete

[Jerome Hanby]

Any good resources out there for refurb info and parts? Looks like bearings (I read this as the arbor bearings) are nothing special and should be readily available.

[Ben Martin]

Any good resources out there for refurb info and parts? Looks like bearings (I read this as the arbor bearings) are nothing special and should be readily available.

Read to your hearts content:

http://wiki.owwm.com/Default.aspx?As...Delta_Unisaw_5

[Mike Heidrick]

I've got an Incra TS-III system that I would want to mount up, so maybe a missing fence would give me a bargaining chip

I'm taking my dial indicator with me so I can get some feel for the run out. Any other particulars to look (or look out) for?

You first post mentioned super low price. Now you are taking a dial indicator with you???? Your seller is nicer than I would be.

[paul dyar]

Mine has Unisaw and tilting arbor saw on the front. What is it?
paul

[Pete Bradley]

I thought people would find the aftermath on this one interesting since it illustrates many elements of "what to look for". Here are some pics of the saw in question that were posted on another site by the person who bought it. Note the broken gear teeth, missing plinth(base), and user-hostile electricals. On the good side, the dust door is present and the motor is single phase, albeit jerry-rigged. This machine is certainly restorable, but there's a fair bit of money and time between here and there.







Pete