Best Drill Bits - advice please

[Brian Kent]

OK, what I really need is a better drill press, but meanwhile I need some new bits. I started out buying whatever was cheapest. Last night I threw out about 50 various bits and kept the 20+ that were sharp and did not wobble.

Please check me out and give me your experienced advice

I kept a small forstner set from Rockler. What has worked for you when I need more.

Do I need spade bits if I have forstners? What has worked well for you? I have seen some recommendations for Irwins here, even though they are cheaper than others.

I have seen top recommendations for Lee Valley brad point bits, so I'll plan on building a set from them.

I see recommendations for cobalt bits for steel. I only drill metals occasionally, but in the past I have used cheap, wobbly, dull bits that just make a mess and screech loudly. What brand of cobalt bits or other bits for occasional metal drilling?

[Mike Wellner]

http://www.norsemandrill.com/Catalog_Index.html

[Daniel Thompson]

The premium brad point bits from Lee Valley are excellent. Those are my preferred bits for drilling small to medium size holes (up to 1/2 inch) in wood. I don't use spade bits much except for things like installing lock sets in doors (along with a hole saw for the big hole). For regular twist drill bits you can get good ones from a machine shop source like Enco. They sell both budget import as well as better quality domestic bits.

[David Song]

I have Porters brad points. I got them after reading an artical where it had better performed when tested. I think Porter had less runout and cleaner cut comapred to LV.

[David G Baker]

Brian,
Dewalt and some other manufacturers make pilot point bits for metal but I use them for many wood projects. I use spade bits once in a while and forstners quite a lot.
If you drill metal you need cutting oil when drilling. The oil will make the bit last longer, the drilled hole much neater, the bit will drill much faster and the noise will disappear.

[jon hamer]

I got frustrated with my set of Chinese 'titanium' peanut butter bits and bought a basic set of Triumph Thunderbits. These are HSS, not cobalt, but I've drilled many holes in steel and cast iron and have had excellellent results. They start easily (don't walk all over), cut fast and don't require much pressure. I got my set at a local Big Box (Mill's Fleet Farm). I notice they're quite expensive on Amazon, so you might want to try a Big Box instead. These bits are made in the USA.

Triumph:
http://www.triumphtwistdrill.com/products/products.asp

Jon Hamer
Southern Minnesota

[Thomas Canfield]

A set of brad point bits by 1/64" from 1/8" up to 1/2" is a good start. Rockler had a set for $20 yesterday on Deal of the Day and I ordered a set to replace a cheap set that I have been using for the last 10+ years that still do reasonably well. The brad point works really well for wood and gives a much cleaner hole than the metal bits even when they are sharp. Metal bits should be used on metal.

A set of Forstner bits is also very handy. A set by 1/8" up to 2 1/4" can be bought fairly cheap and work well for most work. I have added a set of the 1/16" fill in bits later for the times when you really need to get closer to size than the 1/8" increments allow. The spade bits still have a place. but I go to the Forstner bits for clean cut when possible especially using the drill press.

One key to using drill bits is using the proper speed for the bits. Get (or use the chart that comes with the drill) a chart showing the proper speed for the different drill bit size and type. A slow speed will not give a proper cut, and a high speed can be dangerous with the larger diameter bits. The seconds it takes to change the speed pays off with quality and safety.

[Bill Wyko]

I buy the Harbor Freight bits and a good sharpener. I loose too many to spend big money on bits and the Drill Doctor is so easy to use that I always have sharp bits anyway.

[Scott T Smith]

+1 re the recommendation for a Darex Drill Doctor. It's the best way to sharpen bits that I've found.

Re drilling steel, you do not need cobalt bits unless you're planning to drill hardened steel.

Buy bits for steel from a reputable machinist supply house. Everything that they sell should be an excellent grade. Cincinnati twist and Greenfield are two brands that are excellent. J&L Industrial Supply is a good online source. I would not recommend the "bargain" shops for a high grade steel bit (such as HF or Enco).

I have some Eppico Magnum bits that I purchased 20 years ago, and they still work great. They are good not only for mild steel but also spring steel and stainless steel - both difficult to drill materials.

[Dewey Torres]

+1 for the Rockler set
I have been on a crusade to rid my shop of crap tools of late:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...20point%20bits


These are very sharp all the way down the length of the bit and comes in a nice case that lifts up.

Worth every penny!

[Dewey Torres]

I buy the Harbor Freight bits and a good sharpener. I loose too many to spend big money on bits and the Drill Doctor is so easy to use that I always have sharp bits anyway.

Awe come on Bill. I have seen you shop. You appear very organized on camera. I can't believe you are losing bits.

[Brian Kent]

I see what looks like a good starter set of Enco Cobalt bits made in USA for $22. Add some cutting oil for $10.
13 bits: 1/16" to 1/4" by 64th's.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Then I can get a boxed set of 12 Lee Valley Brad Points, 5/64 to 1/4" for $42.75.
I already have a couple of 3/8" brad points.

This, along with my small set of forstners from Rockler should get me started for an affordable cost.

Am I missing any obvious sizes for regular use (furniture and hand-tool making)?

[Sue Wise]

As far as spade vs. forstners, I find that depending upon what I need to drill, I occasionally need spades. For example, when I was drilling dogholes, forstners just wouldn't do the job. I just buy a cheap spade for the just job at hand when I need it.

I do have a nice set of LV and Fuller brad points. These are the bits I use the most. I also have a cheap set of forstners that will do the job, but nothing exciting. I will buy additional good forstner bits for the sizes that I use the most.

-Sue

[Pete Shermet]

I ususally wait until a major WW show if it isn't a specialized bit. But since buying them at the show even the "dull ones" cut better than some of my new unused bits. These are bits that they use in the aircraft industry, My Dad, used to work for AV Roe, Hawker Siddley, Dehaviland, MacDonald Douglas,bought out by Boeing.
Try Here.
http://www.bitlady.com/
no affilliation
Best Regards
Pete

[J. Z. Guest]

One thing some people don't know is that spade bits are meant to be used at high speed, not low speed like other types of large diameter bits. I bought a set of Irwins with sharp tips on the "wings". They cut like mad when they get going (2500 RPM with my corded drill) and they make a pretty clean hole. In a drill press, though, they are no good. They have the hex shank and the tip wobbles around probably 1/8". Save brad points for a hand drill and carpentry type work.

Forstners and brad points are more appropriate for woodworking.

The brad points I bought were the carbide-tipped ones from... (drawing a blank, the main competitor for Rockler...)

They seem pretty good, but they do require more push than a good twist drill bit. I don't know if that is inherent to the design or if these are crummy bits and I just don't know it yet. I had two other types of brad point bits prior to this, and neither of them worked as easily as twist drill bits.

I like the idea of cobalt or titanium-nitride coated bits. Even in wood, they won't need to be sharpened as often. The only problem is that if you break off a cobalt bit in a hole somewhere, (like into a bolt whose head you've twisted off) there's no way in hell to get it out.