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Thread: **** or SharkGuard

  1. #1

    **** or SharkGuard

    So just this weekend I picked up a very lightly used Grizzly G0444Z. I've got to wire up a 220 outlet before I can start using it. Does anyone have a recommendation about the best safety upgrade I could make.
    I'm looking at either the SharkGuard:
    leestyron.com/gallery.php

    or

    the **** a bolt on riving knife that is aftermarket:
    WalnutAcreWoodworking.com
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 03-15-2009 at 6:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
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    1,250
    What did you mean to say that got filtered? ****? I am not sure why that gets filtered, but there may be liability issues here with maker of that tool... you should PM the mods.

  3. #3
    Ok I meant Bolt On Riving Knife, the acronym for that is being blocked for some reason.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    65
    I'm confused are we not allowed to talk about the **** on here?

    I would go with the Shark guard if you want to be able to collect dust at the blade.

    John

  5. #5
    I am buying a dust collector so the dust collection is leading me to the SharkGuard. I've barely used a tablesaw and that was 10 years ago. What types of cuts will the Sharkguard not work with, do you have to remove when doing a dado?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,278
    Hi, the Shark guard cannot be used for non through cuts so for me that makes it a non starter.

    I added an Excalibur overarm guard and Merlin splitter to my saw, and I am extremely pleased with both.

    I suggest that you look at overam guards, and various removable splitters or riving knives.

    You can also make your own overarm guard if you're handy with simple metal fabrication.

    The important thing is to use a guard at all times. If you can't use a guard, you need a different design of guard, or you need to use a different piece of machinery to do what you are attempting.

    The tablesaw isn't a shaper, shapers are ideal for rebates and grooving, and of course have proper guards for that sort of operation.

    There is a tendancy in NA to think that the tablesaw is an all purpose machine, however as you've found, it's only designed by the manufacturer to perform through sawing cuts. That's why the guards that come with the TS don't allow dadoe, rebate or grooving operations.

    Enjoy your saw, use your guards........Rod.

  7. #7
    I'm having trouble finding the Excalibur Blade Guard can you point me in the right direction?

  8. #8
    Excalibur is now part of General International.

    http://www.general.ca/excalibur/page...g/50_EXBC.html

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
    Posts
    1,261
    I also like the Excalibur overarm guard, because you can use the guard on virtually every cut. I use a Biesemeyer removeable splitter, which must be removed for non-through cuts. I replaced the guard cover on my Excalibur with the Shark Guard cover, and get better visibility.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    You're gonna love your 0444Z. Bought mine from a Creeker who really set it up properly. I do not have an above the table collector, just the standard splitter and guard.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  11. #11
    The last issue of Shopnotes had plans for a dust collecting blade guard that mounts to an auxiliary rip fence.

  12. #12
    I have read up on DCs extensively over the last year, but have little experience of my own. I am still finishing my shop (one bay of a 3-car garage) and DC set-up which includes a sharkguard with a 4" port. I am amazed at how dustless the cuts are. I've modified my Grizzly 2hp DC a bit, as well as my Steel City TS. The TS now has a 5" port on the cabinet combined with the 4" shark guard.

    As I said, I am still building my shop, and have not even sealed all my joints yet. Not only is there virtually no dust whatsoever, but this afternoon a 1.5" wide piece of 3/4 ply that was only about 2" long went right up the stack instead of out the back of the cut. I was amazed to hear the racket in the DC (a single-stage), but impressed with the power sucking a piece that big up the 2' to the horizontal run.

    Next is a Thien baffle in the DC separator once I finalize my piping runs.

    Very impressed with the Sharkguard.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Delaware Valley, PA
    Posts
    476
    [QUOTE=John Jendro;1082382]I'm confused are we not allowed to talk about the **** on here?/QUOTE]

    Well heck, we probably cant say **** either, without it getting filtered. Don't they want us to have any fun?

    Regards,

    John
    What this world needs is a good retreat.
    --Captain Beefheart

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Glendale, AZ
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by John Jendro View Post
    I'm confused are we not allowed to talk about the **** on here?

    I would go with the Shark guard if you want to be able to collect dust at the blade.

    John
    Look it up at urbandictionary.com. Learn something new every day.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    1,250
    Well, I went to the urbandictionary page and it took getting to the second page to find anything mildy offensive... and that was a stretch. No, I have reason to believe that **** has more to do with advertising and liability then any of that. This is ****ing silly.

    Mike

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