Freud 10" Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping 1st impressions

[Tony Bilello]

About the only time I change out blades (other than my dado) is when I have to rip 2" or thicker lumber. I have the Delta Contractor Saw which is just a tad underpowered for the thick stuff. I also have a poor electrical source which doesnt help matters much. Then I will use a ripping blade.

[Adam Grills]

I have a GLR with coating from Freud and have used it alot (many many bft) from 1/2" to 2 1/4" thick stock, mostly hardwood some softwood. I always glue up after cutting (never the jointer after) and have top notch glue line. Top qualtiy and low price IMO.
Adam

[Tony Bilello]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

[Adam Grills]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

Guy, there are loads of things that you don't need in a shop...
but a jointer is one of them !
Adam

[Andrew Joiner]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

Many of us don't have jointers......

I'm a non-jointer guy too! Maybe we should start a cult.

Years ago my first glue line rip blade cost about the same as a good used jointer and even that was well worth the price. I loved it. Right from the saw to gluing. No chip out in curly grain woods. No pushing down on heavy long stock to keep it on a jointer table.

[Rick Mellin]

You can use the best blade that money can buy, but nine times out of ten that board is filled with stress and after your first rip the board will twist or warp, maybe not alot but enough to require jointing.

[Chris Schumann]

I have Freud's heavy duty rip for thicker stock. Used it on some 8 foot ash poles last weekend and the cuts were beautiful. I plan to use it on 8/4 ash for my new workbench coming up.

[Rick Fisher]

I use a freud glue line rip and a woodworker II. On 1" stock, I believe the GLR leaves a better finish.

I have ripped 2" with it and cut quality goes down hill fast. Most noticable is burning.

I find that I only really cut plywood on the tablesaw anymore. The GLR blade is in a drawer.. I have been using the WWII..

[scott spencer]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw. Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.

I don't think you're missing anything Brad. I've owned two good 30T TCG GLR's (Freud and CMT) but just never seem to find a reason to keep them around. Most decent blades with 24 teeth or more will leave a glue ready edge right off the saw without help from the jointer. I tend to glue up "as is" from whatever blade is on my saw. If you've already got a decent blade, I see little gained by getting a dedicated GLR unless you're using it in a dedicated ripping situation on 1" or less material. The GLR won't crosscut well, and won't rip well in thicker materials so it has a very limited range...I see swapping in the GLR as an added and unnecessary step (and expense). What does the GLR offer that other good rip and general purpose blades don't?

[Andrew Joiner]

Thanks Scott,

You are right. I know you've tested a lot of blades too. Your opinion is valued by me.

The blade I called my "first glue line rip blade" was probably just a good combination blade it was 1970 so I don't remember the brand.

What I should have said was my "first glue line ripping experience".

Many blades now will give a glue joint cut. The amazing thing to me is the cost. My first blade to give a glue line rip cut was around $100. Now it's $15 to $30. At $15 a sharpening I will start tossing dull blades.

[scott spencer]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

A jointer's primary function is two fold....flatten a face, and an adjacent edge. Saw blades only handle the "edge" portion of that equation. An uneven face will translate to an uneven edge....a "smooth" uneven edge if you use a good blade! How does the non-jointer crowd handle uneven board faces? I know handplanes work, and a planer can be coaxed into flattening with a planer sled.

Andrew....with a last name of "Joiner", isn't owning one a prerequisite?

[James Adinaro]

I have Freud's heavy duty rip for thicker stock. Used it on some 8 foot ash poles last weekend and the cuts were beautiful. I plan to use it on 8/4 ash for my new workbench coming up.

+1 on the Heavy Duty Rip. I used it to rip a boatload of 8/4 hickory for my bench with great success.

I normally run a full kerf WW2, and that would have been dicey.

[Andrew Joiner]

How does the non-jointer crowd handle uneven board faces?

Andrew....with a last name of "Joiner", isn't owning one a prerequisite?

I buy flat S2S or S3S lumber. If I want to flatten a face I use a sled.
Flattening with a planer sled is like a power feed jointer!

A well made rip sled and planer sled can easily do the job of a big jointer. For me it's easier, faster, cheaper and one less machine to maintain.

My middle name should be Sled!

Any chance you want to join the Cult?

[scott spencer]

I buy flat S2S or S3S lumber. If I want to flatten a face I use a sled.
Flattening with a planer sled is like a power feed jointer!

A well made rip sled and planer sled can easily do the job of a big jointer. For me it's easier, faster, cheaper and one less machine to maintain.

My middle name should be Sled!

Any chance you want to join the Cult?

Sign me up for the sled cult! (my kids will love it!)