Can this old JET bandsaw be saved??

[Jason White]

Not sure I'd call this a gloat, but I was in a parking lot and saw a 14" JET bandsaw sitting next to a dumpster. Looking at all the rust on it, I'm guessing it was sitting there for quite some time.

Turns out it belonged to a builder who was doing a commercial job. I asked if he was throwing it out and he said I could have it. Basically described it as an old piece of crap and that I was welcome to it. Since I don't have a bandsaw (and can't afford one right now), it seemed like a no-brainer. So in the back of my pickup it went.

Pictures are here...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1586312...7615862947662/

It's a JET JBS-14, serial #83-2862. Made in Taiwan. Definitely needs some work. The wheels turn, but the tires are shot. The belt is trashed, but the motor does operate. That's a big plus in my book!

Anybody know anything about this saw? The motor says it was built in 1983. Can I still get parts for this machine? I've never had or used a bandsaw, so I'm wondering what I should be looking at and what parts are likely going to need replacing.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me!

Jason

[Michael Schwartz]

The rust should clean up pretty easily, and I don't see why you couldn't make it work. Not a particularly great machine to start out with but if its free who cares. With a bit of hardware, new tires etc.. you should be able to get it up and running and tune it up. Doesn't look like its in that bad of shape, I have seen far worse. Hey and I guess best part was it was free.

As far as parts call Jet and see if they still stock replacement parts for your machine.

Other than that pretty much anything can be obtained from other sources.

Pretty much the parts that you might need to replace would be v belt, tires, bearings, guild bearings, and possibly the motor/switch and wiring. Band saws are quite simple, not allot of parts to deal with. There are a number of good books out there on tuning bandsaws as well as using them, you should probably check them out.

[Jason White]

What are some good upgrades for a saw like this?

I've heard the newer "urethane" tires are good. What about blade guides, replacement belts, etc?

Jason

[Chris Tsutsui]

That doesn't seem in too bad of condition...

Before you invest too much in refurbishing it, I would print out parts manual if you can find one on the net.

Take it apart, and clean the components individually and figure out what parts/bolts need replacement. Make a cost list and determine if it's worth it. (could you resell it on CL to make your money back)

For heavy rust, I use rust remover that is easier to use than sand paper. Though I still use some sand paper on some parts or a heavy abrasive pad. The top should be smooth to the touch, but when it has rust scale on it, it will be rough and uneven. A sanding block makes quick work of the table top rust.

Urethane tires would be good.

You can also replace the belt with a linked belt. You can remove links to adjust belt diameter.

Replacing the bearings might be needed if the bearing has play or is gritty/worn.

The Carter ball bearing guides I have on my Delta are IMO the best guides you can get. These will run about $100+ though.

A cheaper option is a cool block type of guide.

You can also source a new tension spring.

Since this bandsaw is "free", you have a good starting point. Though if you have to pay several hundred dollars for a new motor + other parts, then I don't think it will be worth saving the saw.

When I refurbish tools, what I like to do is claybar the painted surfaces to remove scuffs, oxidized paint, and overspray. Then I give all the painted surfaces a good coat of synthetic wax or sealant to make it supper slippery to help with cleanup. WD-40 can help clean bolts. Vinylex or 303 Aerospace works well on plastics.

Just make sure there's nothing major wrong with the saw before you start buying parts for it.

[Pete Bradley]

This machine's not bad at all. Nothing major obviously broken or missing, needs tires and cleaning up.

Now...forget the "upgrades". Replace the tires (rubber or urethane is fine), replace the guide bearings, and square up whatever guide blocks it has. Get a good quality solid machine belt. Clean the table and put in a new insert and pin. Get everything tuned up. This article is a good reference:
http://www.ccwwa.org/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf

Finally, enjoy your saw and start getting experience. You'll quickly develop a feel for what's important and what's not.

Pete


Here are before and after for mine (and unlike you I had to pay for it in the "before" condition!):

[Jason White]

Are bearings difficult to replace? Would I need the original JET bearings?

That doesn't seem in too bad of condition...

Before you invest too much in refurbishing it, I would print out parts manual if you can find one on the net.

Take it apart, and clean the components individually and figure out what parts/bolts need replacement. Make a cost list and determine if it's worth it. (could you resell it on CL to make your money back)

For heavy rust, I use rust remover that is easier to use than sand paper. Though I still use some sand paper on some parts or a heavy abrasive pad. The top should be smooth to the touch, but when it has rust scale on it, it will be rough and uneven. A sanding block makes quick work of the table top rust.

Urethane tires would be good.

You can also replace the belt with a linked belt. You can remove links to adjust belt diameter.

Replacing the bearings might be needed if the bearing has play or is gritty/worn.

The Carter ball bearing guides I have on my Delta are IMO the best guides you can get. These will run about $100+ though.

A cheaper option is a cool block type of guide.

You can also source a new tension spring.

Since this bandsaw is "free", you have a good starting point. Though if you have to pay several hundred dollars for a new motor + other parts, then I don't think it will be worth saving the saw.

When I refurbish tools, what I like to do is claybar the painted surfaces to remove scuffs, oxidized paint, and overspray. Then I give all the painted surfaces a good coat of synthetic wax or sealant to make it supper slippery to help with cleanup. WD-40 can help clean bolts. Vinylex or 303 Aerospace works well on plastics.

Just make sure there's nothing major wrong with the saw before you start buying parts for it.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jason,
I had this machine back in the 1980s. It was typical of the quality of most Taiwanese offerings of that time...which was OK but nothing special. These class of machines offered a low price point compared to Delta and Powermatic machines which is what made the Taiwanese offerings so attractive to home hobbyists as myself.

Overall operation was fine. The main issue was that some casted parts are a bit crude which meant you may have to fumble with them to set them correctly. I eventually upgraded to an 18" bandsaw mostly because I wanted more resaw power, and a larger throat for scroll cuts. However, I would have upgraded even if I owned a Delta 14" bandsaw.

Your machine is definitely worth some modest restoration work. Some parts, like the throat plate insert, missing knob on the table trunnion, and missing pin in the table's blade slot, can be easily replaced. I recommend cool blocks because they are low cost option that work very well; They also allow you to run 1/8" blades for tight scroll work.

At no cost, no tax and no shipping fee, I think it's a good find and a great addition to a new home shop.

-Jeff

[Curt Harms]

Bearings should be available from a bearing & drive store. Link belts are nice but they ain't cheap, a cogged V belt might give a better bang for the buck. It looks like the slot in one of the table trunnions may be cracked. I suspect a trunnion from a Harbor Freight 14" band saw might fit, or a Grizzly 1019. If the motor runs and you can find a trunnion that fits (don't worry about it if you don't want to tilt the table) the rest shouldn't be that hard or expensive.

Curt

[Jeffrey Makiel]

As Chris mentioned, only change the bearings if you feel slop or hear noise. Otherwise, I'd leave them be. Also, I second Curt's recommendation to use a cog belt for cost reasons.

Here are some possible sources for generic parts (bearings, belts, etc.) ...
Mcmaster Carr (mcmaster.com)
Grainger (grainger.com)

-Jeff

[Bob Aquino]

This machine's not bad at all. Nothing major obviously broken or missing, needs tires and cleaning up.

Now...forget the "upgrades". Replace the tires (rubber or urethane is fine), replace the guide bearings, and square up whatever guide blocks it has. Get a good quality solid machine belt. Clean the table and put in a new insert and pin. Get everything tuned up. This article is a good reference:
http://www.ccwwa.org/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf

Finally, enjoy your saw and start getting experience. You'll quickly develop a feel for what's important and what's not.

Pete


Here are before and after for mine (and unlike you I had to pay for it in the "before" condition!):

Uh, yeah, but that ain't no Jet...

[Alex Shanku]

That machine is almost 30 years old. I would most definitely change the bearings on it and the motor. I bet your bearing cost would be somewhere around 15-20 bucks or so.

"AX" style belts (cog) are superior to link belts, imo. Much cheaper, too.

If your wheels dont have a crown machined into them, urethane isnt the way to go. Its too thin to crown. I would go with EPDM rubber tires (look to Iturra Designs) and 3M 4799 adhesive. This way, you can crown your tires using any one of a number of methods. The rubber tires are a few bucks cheaper, also.

My $.02

[Alex Shanku]

Also, looking again at your pictures, if you can address the broken trunion, as was mentioned earlier, I think your two thrust bearings are just 6202's. Those are a $2-3 bucks a piece.

[Chip Lindley]

Jeez Jason! I was expecting a moth-eaten orange Bucket Of Rust! Others have given your solid advice about cleaning up the saw. It is not only *saveable*--it does not even look to be in *mortal danger*! I've seen 10 times worse FS on CL!

[Jason White]

Interesting. I didn't even notice the crack!

Maybe I can order one from JET.

JW

Bearings should be available from a bearing & drive store. Link belts are nice but they ain't cheap, a cogged V belt might give a better bang for the buck. It looks like the slot in one of the table trunnions may be cracked. I suspect a trunnion from a Harbor Freight 14" band saw might fit, or a Grizzly 1019. If the motor runs and you can find a trunnion that fits (don't worry about it if you don't want to tilt the table) the rest shouldn't be that hard or expensive.

Curt

[Jason White]

The existing belt is a "V" type belt, which I've read bad things about.

How does a "cog" belt differ?

That machine is almost 30 years old. I would most definitely change the bearings on it and the motor. I bet your bearing cost would be somewhere around 15-20 bucks or so.

"AX" style belts (cog) are superior to link belts, imo. Much cheaper, too.

If your wheels dont have a crown machined into them, urethane isnt the way to go. Its too thin to crown. I would go with EPDM rubber tires (look to Iturra Designs) and 3M 4799 adhesive. This way, you can crown your tires using any one of a number of methods. The rubber tires are a few bucks cheaper, also.

My $.02