New Yankee Jewelry Chest

[J. Z. Guest]

Finally done. I started this middle of last summer.











I think I'm done with lock miters. I tried & tried & tried, and could not get them to not blow out on the little thin part. Backed them up, used featherborads... no luck. Filled the blown-out parts with epoxy here, so the drawers are still nice & strong. Through dovetails with the MLCS "Pins & Tails" jig is much easier.

The piano hinge Norm recommends is no longer available. I used a couple of the Brusso stop hinges.

The finish didn't come out worth a damn, as you can see. I applied analine dye mixed with water, let it dry, then 4 coats of water-based poly with a rag. The WB poly lifted the dye out and made it all uneven. The color came out a lot more pinkish than I had hoped, even after adding the maximum amount of dye per oz. of water. I should have stock with oil-based gloss poly, applied with a rag. That has never failed me, and the grain on this maple was beautiful.

Ah well, we live & learn. Kate likes it.

[Dewey Torres]

Kate liking it is what counts. The rest of the challenges you faced with this project will just make you better for the next one. If it makes you feel better, I tried a lock miter a few times and then sold mine (no mas)!

[John Keeton]

Jeremy, I think it looks good - although, as you said, it is too small and Katie NEEDS a larger one so you can buy her more goodies!

What about using a tinted glaze to knock down the color some? I don't use water based finishes, but I wonder if there is a compatible way to do that??

[John Olson]

The construction looks great. Color is a personel thing we each have are own favorite . I would build it out of cherry, but thats me.

[Ed Peters]

I think I'm done with lock miters. I tried & tried & tried, and could not get them to not blow out on the little thin part. Backed them up, used featherborads... no luck.

Well you were curious enough to try the lock miter, and , like many others, found out how ticklish it is on a good day. There is another approach I could recommend that is easy to setup and produces great results every time. The drawer lock joint. If you'll give it a try I am pretty sure you will be happy with the results. I especially like the appearance of this joint in baltic birch plywood.

Ed

[Jim Becker]

Nice work on the construction...I built this particular design a number of years ago for Professor Dr. SWMBO and I really enjoyed making it.

One tip with the water soluble dye...you need to seal it with de-waxed shellac before you proceed with other finishes, especially water bornes, but even an oil-based varnish may pick up some of the dye.

[J. Z. Guest]

The drawer lock joint. If you'll give it a try I am pretty sure you will be happy with the results.

Ed - Are you referring to the router drawer lock bit, or cut on the table saw? I think I will try that next time.

Jim - Thanks for the tip on Shellac before poly. Maybe I will try this on some scraps and see how it goes. I hate to just throw out the rest of that $17 bottle of dye, hehehe.

John - Norm built his out of Cherry as well. I really wanted to try maple (first time) and it would have turned out great if I had not botched the finish. The grain was beautiful. Not curly or birds-eye or anything, just nice.

Dewey - Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear that the more experienced guys also have trouble with this joint.

John - I don't know, but I think I'm done messing with this one. Kate has already moved in and would have a fit if I took it away. It has 4 coats of WB poly, so if I were going to try anything else, my back-up plan would have to be paint (ick) if it didn't work.

I really appreciate all the helpful feedback fellas.

[Thomas Knapp]

Nice work on the construction...I built this particular design a number of years ago for Professor Dr. SWMBO and I really enjoyed making it.

One tip with the water soluble dye...you need to seal it with de-waxed shellac before you proceed with other finishes, especially water bornes, but even an oil-based varnish may pick up some of the dye.

Spraying the shellac on in a light coat, either from an aerosol can or spray gun works best. Many of the aniline dyes soluble in water are also soluble in alcohol. A light spray coat does not lift the stain as much as other methods of applying finish. If you dissolve the dye in alcohol instead of water add a little shellac to the mix and it helps lock the dye in.

[Mike Null]

Several years ago I made a beautiful blanket chest with variable size dovetail joints, slightly sloping sides and contoured lid. This was for my niece's wedding gift.

Well, it was beautiful until I applied the finish. A blotchy mess.

I learned a hard lesson---use shellac first and spend as much time planning the finish as the piece.

My niece was still thrilled with it.

Still, you have something to be proud of, and it's a good foundation for future projects.

[John Thompson]

Nice job on the construction as mentioned, Jeremy. The others have already offered tips on the finish as I am no guru in that area for sure. Maple is not the easiest wood to stain to begin with and one reason when I use it I purposely use a natural finish to high-light the light color after popping the grain..

Sarge..

[Dave Samborski]

Jeremy,

I think you did a fine job on this chest. I like it.
The splotchy/lifted finish gives it an aged or worn look to it.

I have this perfectionist side of me that I'm really trying to get over, so when I see a piece that I know was made by hand (as opposed to mass production), I lend it more favor. I appreciate seeing the 'less-than-perfect' points on a piece.

One question: How were you making the locked miters? Table saw? Router bit?
I've never tried them; might give it a go someday.

Dave

[J. Z. Guest]

I used this bit from MLCS Woodworking:



Send me $5 for shipping and I'll send this to you complete with set-up block. (PM me if interested)

[Phil Thien]

I like it.

I've given up on brushed and rubbed-in finishes over any stains/dyes. If I color the wood, I spray the topcoat. I only use rattle cans, too.