SawStop PCS Dedicated Thread

[Paul Ryan]

Paul,

I have a Sears 22124 with a true Biesmier fence. When I saw the difference between the contractor fence(now evidently on the PCS) and Industrial model fence it was substantial. The rails are of much thinner steel than the ICS or Biesmier. I'm glad to hear it growing on you. I inquired into not buying the PCS fence and putting an aftermarket fence on of my choosing but no deal. I certainly could understand this policy as they want us to test the full package offered. Frank I think will have the best of these worlds with his Incra.

It would be interesting to know what table saw all of us testers have been using since this so greatly colors our reactions to the PCS.

Dan,

I think the Fence that cam with my PCS saw is better than a Bies. I am not a fan of Bies fences at all. I think they slide too harshly, I don't like the faces on them, and I think they are too difficult to adjust. This saw is better than all of those impressions. It slides very, very smoothly (but at this point that has come at at price with my fence), they faces are slicker than a Bies(but they are still wood), and it is very easy to adjust. I disagree completely that this fence is much lighter duty than a bies. I cannot honesty see a differece between this fence and the one on the ICS. The rails are 3/16 steel, the tube is substantial, and legs on the fence are 3/16 steel. What is not to like. For me I haven't been able to adjust the slop out of the fence, that bothers me. That is the same problem I have seen on a lot of bies fences. I really think it maybe I just dont have it adjusted to were I would like it. I had my SC fence adjusted so it took a gorilla to push the handle down to lock it. I don't have this one adjusted that way. It doesn't take much to push that handle down, but it locks solid, very solid.

It is just something new. And will take some getting use to. I have just wrote about my personal 1st impressions. As I have stated before I think the SC fence is the best fence avilable bar none. Before I bought my SC saw I looked at a shop fox, a jet exacta, a powermatic accu fence, and a bies. The bies was my least favorite. But the slickness of the SC and how strongly it clamped, the weight and heft of it impressed me. And the plastic faces were just icing on the cake. And I also bought the granite top which I absolutely loved. I had come to really like that fence. This SS package is an excellent machine. I am waiting to here some more 1st time impressions from other testers, that are as critical as I am.

[Dan T Jones]

Paul,
That is very encouraging. You have me at a great disadvantage as you have your saw and I am waiting for mine. What started me on this is the comparison info Dylan sent me:

Fence and rails
· Industrial Series Fence
o 3 mm gauge fence tube
o 3mm gauge main tube
o 6 mm gauge front rail
o 6mm gauge rear rail
· Professional Series Fence
o 2 mm gauge fence tube
o 3mm gauge main tube
o 4 mm gauge front rail
o 4mm gauge rear rail


As you can see a 2mm difference between the rails seemed substantial. From what you are saying maybe they did put the ICS rails and fence on the PCS.

[Rob Price]

It may be a decent difference mathematically, but the rails feel heavy and sturdy. Mounted to the table I can't imagine them flexing. You could probably lift the table with them. The manual says you can lean it over on them. The fence feels solid when locked down as well, I can't appreciate any flex.

I'll slap the calipers on the fence/rails when I get home tonight.

[Frank Trinkle]

I sent in a long feedback and 1st impressions email to SawStop this morning. By this afternoon, I had received three emails from different people within the company all addressing one note or another from my feedback.

The last one was from the Vice President, who stated that we will be getting nice bound Owner's Manuals when the production model is released, and they will be revising the setup procedure for the mobile unit based upon our experiences with installing while the cabinet is still on its side.

We also agree that if you purchase the mobile base at the same time as the saw, it is much easier to install the mobile base before lifting it upright. Therefore, we are revising our assembly instructions accordingly.

It's nice to know that the company is listening to our observations and making changes accordingly.

[Andy Sowers]

For those of you who have already setup your PCS, how did you level your extension wings relative to the main table?

I used my LeeValley straightedge and some feeler gauges to get things close. I used a piece of wood and a dead blow hammer to get everything level. In most cases I was able to get everything flat within 0.003, I assume that's close enough without going OCD. What say you?

Oh, I didnt have to shim the extension wings either, simply bolting it up got things real close, the remainder was pretty much leveled out when attaching the rails (per the assembly instructions).

The wooden extension table was a bit of a different story. That was much more of a pain.

[Paul Ryan]

For those of you who have already setup your PCS, how did you level your extension wings relative to the main table?

I used my LeeValley straightedge and some feeler gauges to get things close. I used a piece of wood and a dead blow hammer to get everything level. In most cases I was able to get everything flat within 0.003, I assume that's close enough without going OCD. What say you?

Oh, I didnt have to shim the extension wings either, simply bolting it up got things real close, the remainder was pretty much leveled out when attaching the rails (per the assembly instructions).

The wooden extension table was a bit of a different story. That was much more of a pain.

Andy,

That is exactly what I did to level my wings. Minus the dead blow hammer. But do what you have to. I leveled mine until I couldn't get a .003 feeler guage under the lee valley straight edge. I figured that was close enough. I am not a profectionist. The .002 is next to nothing. I worked longer on the tabel too. I got it close to about .004, but the center of the table is not flat it drops off as you go away from the extension wing.

I guess that since all of the field test saws had been spoken for. Those of you that are concerned about the fence will be able to check it out before you buy the saw. If I get a chance tonight I will go out and see if I can get mine adjusted.

[Barry Vabeach]

Frank, who did you send your email to? I thought the original email said we would get a questionare, but I didn't see one so far. Just got mine late this afternoon - I took about 1 1/2 hours to get the saw and extension tables, etc put together . I haven't attacked the fence system and will try to get that done tonight.

[Ed Calkins]

For those of you who have already setup your PCS, how did you level your extension wings relative to the main table?

I found it easiest to align the center part of the extensions to the table (more or less held by center two bolts) and then aligned the front and back edge with the help of a clamp and tightened the outside bolts. That allowed me to align the extensions with the table edge. Next (I got pulled off the project) I hope to make the extensions align (flat) to the table using the fence rails. Where I had a problem was the attaching bolts (M8x16mm) were too short when the flat and lock washers were used. Difficult to start and even with the lock wshr compressed there were not enough threads (in my opinion) engaged. The SS tech agreed they were too short and said he would send me 20mm bolts (I had already swapped some with the switch box bolts which were allen head but were 20mm. I am thinking I need a better straight edge that is at least 36" long to really setup the table and extensions properly. A good one is expensive but probably a good long-term investment. Ed

Ed

[Paul Ryan]

Fellas,


I got my fence exactly how I like it now. It clamps done firmly but slides very smooth with very little slop. I spend about 45 min messing around with it. Now when I stop at a measurment I just push the lock lever and it doesn't move.

I think the problem was how SS says to put the main tube on. They tell you to start at the left end and set the tube so the fence is about 1/16 from the front rail, and then move to the far right end. Do the same at the right end, then tighten all of the bolts in between. The problem with that is if the tube isn't 100% straight it will be off in the middle. After i had set it the way there manuel said, I meaured the distance of the tube from the front rail. The meaurments varied up to 1/32. That caused the fence to have more slop in some areas and less in others. When I tried to take up the slop the fence bound up in other places.

I started by making sure the parallel tabs on the fence were at equal lenghts. Then I set the left end of the tube, and then moved the fence to the next bolt, set that one, on to the next bolt, all the way to the right end. That way the tube is aligned the same distance all the way along. Then I set the parallel of the fence. I have the fence less than .0005 out of parallel. I can't measure any lower than that, my feeler guages don't go any smaller. Any to be honest that is alot closer than I care to worry about.
So now I am happy with it. I think their procedure needs to be adjusted. One of the problems it I didn't get a manuel with my fence.

Did any one get a manuel with their fence?

[Rob Price]

Other than the installation manual, no other instructions for the fence.

I thought about doing what you talked about, that will ensure the tube is straight. There's one sticky spot on my fence. What did you use to index? I used my putty knife before.

As far as the table goes, using my cheapo Sears straight edge, I only have one spot where I can slip a single sheet of paper in (.0030 according to my calipers). Good enough for me. My wood certainly isn't that flat. I started at the front and worked my way back. Clamping it is a good idea, but I didn't have to, I just used a flat piece of wood and light taps with a hammer.

Next I'll try to tune up the fence like you did Paul. Thanks for the tip.

Just for fun I put the calipers on the rails- 4.2mm, which probably accounts for the paint finish. The "T" part of the fence was 6.2mm. The main tube is probably 2mm, I can't get the calipers on it without taking it apart. I don't think it really matters though.

I need to get some finish on my boxes before I do any more work on the saw.

[Rob Price]

Paul,
That is very encouraging. You have me at a great disadvantage as you have your saw and I am waiting for mine. What started me on this is the comparison info Dylan sent me:

Industrial Series Fence
o 3mm gauge main tube

· Professional Series Fence
o 3mm gauge main tube

So the main tube is the same, I would think that's the important part, that's what the fence rides on and locks down on, right?

[Paul Ryan]

Rob,

To index my tube away from the front rail. I used a tool registration card folded in half. I used the loose ends not the folded end. When I bolted the tube down the card pulled out tight, and then would not slip back in. It is also important that the adjustment pads are at even measurments. If they are not the fence with not be adjusted the same along the entire length. When you are done indexing the tube, you will have to go back and adjust the fence for parallel. It is alot of messing around but for me it was worth it to get rid of the slop and make the fence lock down real tight.

[Barry Vabeach]

Frank, who did you send your email to? I thought there was supposed to be a questionnaire with the saw but did not find one.

[Frank Trinkle]

Sent to dylan@sawstop, and info@sawstop, and service@sawstop. It got to the right corners of the company for the various specific comments in my full email.

[Rob Price]

I think we get the questions at the end of the month.