Problem with W1741 Jointer ( Same as Grizzly G0490 )

[Marlin Williams]

I tried to start up my Shopfox W1741 (same as the Grizzly G0490) jointer and the motor makes a loud hum/buzzing sound and the thermal switch kicks in. I removed the belt and the same thing happens.

I have it wired to a 240V outlet with a double 20amp breaker. The breaker never pops just the thermal one on the jointer. The motor does move before it shuts off.

I bought this over 2 years ago but just tried to use it now as when I bought it I sold our old house really fast and did not get a chance to use. Then went into storage. And then now had to work on the house, newborn baby, etc... so could it sitting for 2+ years have soemthing to do with it?

Where should I start?

Thanks

[David Romano]

I would start by making sure the wiring is correct. Be sure you have 2 hots and 1 neutral or ground. If the voltage is only 120, the motor will run labored and slow then the thermal switch will kick in and shut the motor down.

If the wiring is correct, and the motor just hums but never begins turning, the capcitor might be bad. Shop fox should be able to send you a new one and installing it shouldn't be too bad I had to do it to my bandsaw once.

David

[Marlin Williams]

The Cap is good, just checked. I also checked the outlet and it has 2 120s and the ground are all good.

BUT I did not notice before as the switch kept popping is the motor is going backwards. The wiring I did is fine so maybe the factory messed up? Will have to look at the manual but not sure what to really check unless the wiring is off somewhere?

EDIT: Just looked through book and there are 3 caps. I only found the large starter cap. So I will look at it again tomorrow to see if one of the other 2 caps is bad.

[Andy Sowers]

How do you know the capacitor isnt fried? I bought a used DC that had a similar motor problem... on startup the motor would turn over maybe 1/2 a revolution then the circuit breaker would trip. None of the capacitors looked like they were toasted, but after replacing them, the motor has been fine ever since.

[Chip Lindley]

Marlin, your motor leads may be connected for 115V instead of 230V. Double-check instructions for how to connect the leads for 230V in the instruction manual. OR diagramed on the motor nameplate, OR inside the connection box cover. Also instructions for reversing rotation by reversing two of the wire leads.

The only other issue to be checked, is the centrifugal starter winding contacts inside the motor. These should slide up and down the motor shaft smoothly against spring pressure. But, I'm betting you have capacitor probs!

[M Toupin]

I also checked the outlet and it has 2 120s and the ground are all good.

But do you have 220v across the two lines? It's possible to pull both lines from the same leg in the fuse box which will give you results like your seeing.

On a machine that's never been in service I'd first suspect the wiring. After you eliminate that then I'd move onto the start capacitor. Remove the belts and spin the motor by hand, then close the switch. If the motor spins up then you'll know it's a capacitor.

Mike

[Rod Sheridan]

But do you have 220v across the two lines? It's possible to pull both lines from the same leg in the fuse box which will give you results like your seeing.



Mike

Mike, if he used the same pole for both wires there would be zero volts applied to the motor winding and it would be silent.

Regards, Rod.

[Marlin Williams]

Hi,

I heard back from support and I guess there is only 1 Cap.

Yep it is 240 across and 120 each. It can't run at 120 as its a 240 machine only.

I am going to check the contact points next as support brought that up. Could be from sitting bugs, dust, or even just corrusion has made them or 1 of them not contcat well.


Thanks