Here's a rig I set up to rip a pc of pegboard (Don't laugh, it worked pretty good ):
Here's a rig I set up to rip a pc of pegboard (Don't laugh, it worked pretty good ):
ken
That's pretty good. I wouldn't even attempt to cut pegboard on a table saw and my choice would be to use a circular saw and straight edge. (Or have the BORG cut it for me with their vertical panel saw)
FYI - I tried two types of stand rollers and didn't like them and I ended up being happy with the rigid outfeed flip top support. I use a shim to level the 4 feet since my garage floor isn't exactly level. heh
Yeah, I have one of those roller outfeeds and they aren't all they are cracked up to be. Wouldn't have worked for what I was doing....
Based on what I had rigged I think I'll design a clamp on out-feed rig that I can store out of the way...
ken
I have a good outfeed table, but no infeed setup. I'm going to keep yours in minds, since I have extra wood, a chair and clamps. Love it!
Maybe when I get my dedicated shop (years from now ) with more room I can build a good outfeed table.
ken
Nobody said it has to be pretty, it just has to work.
I've cut peg board length wise before and it's not the easiest cut to make.
Please help support the Creek.
"It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
Andy Rooney
Ken, that's what happens when you leave your garage door open, someone steals your blade guard and splitter
Actually that looked like a great solution for cutting flexible sheet goods, thanks for the idea.
Regards, Rod.
FWIW, unless a roller is precisely lined up, it will always roll the work piece to one side or the other, that's why a stationary outfeed support works so well, I use a piece of PVC sewer pipe on the top of mine so it will slide easier, and its adjustable so I can use it on the table saw, lunchbox planer and jointer.
The third picture shows the dedicated infeed and adjustable height outfeed supports for the table saw
Jr.
Hand tools are very modern- they are all cordless
NORMAL is just a setting on the washing machine.
Be who you are and say what you feel... because those that matter... don't mind...and those that mind...don't matter!
By Hammer and Hand All Arts Do Stand
And I found an easy way to Joint long heavy boards or rough sawn tapered planks, using an 8.5 ft long 1/4 by 3 piece of extruded aluminum for a straight edge, a router and a pattern bit.
The first cut is with the straight edge as a guide and the second cut uses the first cut as a guide.
Jr.
Hand tools are very modern- they are all cordless
NORMAL is just a setting on the washing machine.
Be who you are and say what you feel... because those that matter... don't mind...and those that mind...don't matter!
By Hammer and Hand All Arts Do Stand
Ken, It's great. I do think, though, that this operation is deceptively dangerous. This is precisely the kind of thing that gets kicked back by virtue of its size and flimsiness.
Personally, I think it's best done with a circ saw and guide, or at least good in and side support and a helper, and CRITICALLY, a splitter. It'd be worth it to make a thin-sheetgood-ripping blade insert with a permanent splitter glued into the kerf and preferably extending back as far as possible to help keep your cut true and straight....
I'm no expert, but have had a large pieces screech and threaten kickback. It's enough to make you wet yr pants....
I may get the splitter out and start using it -
ken
Personally, I hate my stock guard. It never aligns right with my blade and ends up causing more binding and burning. It feels even MORE dangerous sometimes. Also, I can't use it on non-thru cuts or narrow cuts with a push stick.
So I - like many others - made a splitter out of a sawed off gate hinge. It mounts in the same slot as the stock splitter and is always in place.
Don't mean to be pedantic; I'm sure you know yr stuff probably better than I do, but when it comes to safety, I don't mind being preachy.