Curved staircase

[Brandon Sistrunk]

Guys, just an update. I've got all the skirt boards on and risers, 2 treads left to install on these stairs. I made templetes for all the winder stairs, and it is going great. We are using 3'' wide by 1'' thick tongue and groove pine for the treads. I know about the longevity of pine, but believe me there was no talking the homeowner out of it you know what I mean. I finally said, you want pine, lets install pine. I will post pics we had to get some flex trim to cap the skirtboards. I am having one issue. When I scribe in the winder treads my old Milwaukee jigsaw blade is allowing my blade to flex and causing a front bevel on the tread material. I am having to go back and back bevel on the miter saw. I am looking at possible upgrading jigsaws, has anyone had any experience with this. I am thinking about getting the Bosch JS5, but i don't know if that is the issue.

[bill mullin]

Posting this pic in response to Brandon's request via PM.

[Brandon Sistrunk]

We just got this case trimmed out, it took us just over a week. The stair treads are now being stained and the wrought iron is being installed next week.

The homeowner chose 1'' pine tongue and grove material for the treads. They were built on site. I built the front step, but had the millwork shop who ran the trim, build the first tread. We had to use flex trim to cap the inner and outer skirt board. The wood would not make the bend on the outside skirtboard. This was a very tedious but rewarding project. I am glad it is under my belt, and the best part is that the homeowner is very happy.

[Steve Clardy]

Looking good.

[Paul Girouard]

I am looking at possible upgrading jigsaws, has anyone had any experience with this. I am thinking about getting the Bosch JS5, but i don't know if that is the issue.

Bosch is the way to go IMO. Festool might be better, I've never used a Festool , to spendy and I've never seen one on a job site either, so maybe only rich hobbyist buy them.


On your treads the "ears" should be mitered and returned into the skirt board , at the back / riser to thread joining area. Thats the proper way to do it. Not just cut off flush as you have done.



Over all it looks OK , the grain matching, or miss matching, really could use some work as well.
At least put mixed grain boards next to mixed grain , straight grain next to straight grain. You have wild grain , mixed , staright all willy nilly-ed to together.

The bottom line is the client is happy , but those couple of things you should take into consideration on future projects. The next "Boss / client " may not be so easy to please.

Good luck on your future projects.

[Brandon Sistrunk]

Paul thanks for the tip, I am looking to improve so I am open for areas of improvement. Anybody else don't hesitate to offer ideas on how I could have done something else to add a more professional touch to the project. I have to be honest, never having done any stairs before, I felt as though I did the best I could. So I do appreciate constructive criticism. Also I do have more pictures if anybody would like. Send me message with your email address and I will be glad to send them to you.

[Richard Wolf]

Overall, the staircase looks good, a curved staircase will do that. I am going to be a little tough on you with my criticism.

1.The starting step is not large enough for a volute.

2.The left side of the staircase doesn't over lap the wall enough, the railing may not die into the wall.

3.The mitered returns should only be 1 1/4" wide and run past the end of the riser.

4.You should have cove molding under the treads on the front and side. The small strips up the side of the risers look amateurish.

5.The stringer boards look terrible. In some spots it is 2" above the treads, and others it is 12" above.

I know you had a poor foundation to start with and a lot of compromises had to be made which the home owner was alright with. In the future it is important to understand where the problem areas are going to be so you can either correct them or cover yourself in advance.

With all that said, I'm sure you learned a lot. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it.

Richard

[Brandon Sistrunk]

Richard, thanks for the tips, I will definetly look at things a little different next time. Would you provide a little more detail on comments 1 and 2 on your last response, I would like to better understand your point.

Thanks,
Brandon

[Richard Wolf]

The bullnose end on the starting step should extend about 11" past the second step to allow room for a volute. It doesn't appear that you have enough room, so how do they plan to start the railing?

They will need a rail on the left side of the staircase, 3 steps. It looks like the rail will not hit the wall to have a clean ending. Those left side treads should overlap that wall corner by about 4".

Like I said, I am being tough on you, but sooner or later, a customer will.

Richard

[Clara Koss]

hate stairs so i never will buy a house with 2 or more floors... but the ones pictured are gorgeous....