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Thread: Miter plane

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
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    2,854
    "Do these things work a whole lot better, (like $375.00) better than a regular plane on its side? Let's just say you had the cash burning a hole in your pocket, is it something you would get?"
    The short answer to your question is yes, they do work a lot better than a bench plane on its side. I have one, and dozens of other planes besides (that I could use on a shooting board), but this is my go-to for end grain.

    There's a couple of reasons for this - the large, perfectly 90 degree side on the plane makes a very stable platform for running on the bed of a shooting board, and the "hot dog" handle makes holding the plane square to the end of the board considerably easier than gripping the thin side wall of a bench plane. By the way - the side handle Dominic shows in his picture was an earlier version of the #9 - they were shipped both with that handle and an optional "hot dog". The current version deletes the side knob and is shipped with the hot dog handle as standard equipment. If you've an older version that did not include the hot dog, you can order one from L-N and it will fit.

    So - I would heartily recommend the L-N #9, but as the other posters have noted, you should be able to get a standard bench plane to work on a shooting board. If you can't, it's likely to be the sharpness of the blade, too big of a cut, or too hard of a wood. To start with, you should practice with something soft like eastern white pine, poplar, aspen, etc... The end grain of something like maple or walnut is really hard, and you should graduate to these woods, not start with them.

    Finally - I tend to stay out of the Lie-Nielsen/Lee Valley debates, because I think it's a preference with no clear winner, and saving less than $100 dollars on a tool that you'll spend your lifetime using is not a justification for picking one brand or another (the Lee Valleys tend to be cheaper, with the difference depending on the model). Nor do I think it's a good idea to have just a couple of planes and a bunch of interchangeable blades (and you can do that with either L-N or Lee Valley bevel up or bevel down planes).

    However, this is one instance where the Lie-Nielsen low angle jack plane might offer a significant advantage - a hot dog handle can be ordered with the plane, and that makes using it as a shoot-board plane a lot easier.

    My personal preference, of course, is the #9, but if you don't already have a jack plane, you may well be better off by buying a bevel up jack (of either brand).

  2. #17
    One of those fine LV shooting planes would be nice. So would that sweet HNT Gordon trying plane Derek has there. But neither is going to work any better than what you have now if it is not SHARP and properly "tuned". I have a "crappy" Stanley low angle block plane that I can get "perfect" end grain shavings with when it's freshly sharpened. No doubt that the extra weight and "square box" construction of the LV plane will make it "easier" to shoot miters as long as it's set up properly.
    David DeCristoforo

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Longview WA
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    Let's just say you had the cash burning a hole in your pocket
    If my wife was close enough to smell the smoke, the money would not be in my pocket long enough for me to figure out what new toy to buy.

    jim

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    894
    Check out Derek Cohen's site. He's made a couple of hot dogs for the LV low angle jack.

    Do your self a favor and spend some time on Derek's site - lots of good information and ideas from someone who obviously knows his stuff and explains it very well.

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ go to shop made tools
    Last edited by Richard Dooling; 04-27-2009 at 12:52 PM. Reason: Added link
    RD

  5. #20
    I shoot with a Stanley #6 I got for $20--no one seems to like them much, so they are often cheaper than either the #5 or #7. It is the sharpest blade in my plane till and is the one I sharpen most often (I shoot every cross-cut). Nothing fancy, just the original blade. As others have mentioned, it is set to take a very light cut.

    I bet those expensive planes work even better, but I spent my $$$ on high quality sharpening stones. Down the line I am sure I will get a dedicated low-angle plane of one sort or another for shooting.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Simi Valley, Ca
    Posts
    148
    Thanks again for all of your replies.

    I will first work on my sharpening, and taking thinner cuts. The wood I'm using now is cherry, but it is on a fairly large cross section and that is where I am getting all the resistance to pushing through the cut. When I'm doing small pieces it goes fairly smoothly and I can get full sized shavings. I've said before that I really need to learn to go slowly with hand tools. The nearly instant gratification of using power is a hard thing for me to get over. I am really enjoying the challenges of all hand tools.

    I'll save my cash for now and follow all of your good advice.

    Thanks,

    Marc

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
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    There is no need for fancy shooting boards and hot dog planes that lay on their side. Just use a power planer! Remember to always make full depth cuts and to hold the workpiece with one hand while you cut with the other (no need for fancy dogs and cats to steady the piece.)

    http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...laner-tear.htm

    ps

  8. #23
    "http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...laner-tear.htm"

    You gotta be kidding!?!? You are... aren't you? Please... DON'T WATCH THIS! RUN AWAY... VERY FAST!
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 05-08-2009 at 4:33 PM.
    David DeCristoforo

  9. #24
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    Sep 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Casebolt View Post
    I've said before that I really need to learn to go slowly with hand tools. The nearly instant gratification of using power is a hard thing for me to get over.
    My comment to people is hand tools are better because the mistakes happen slower.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Scoma View Post
    There is no need for fancy shooting boards and hot dog planes that lay on their side. Just use a power planer! Remember to always make full depth cuts and to hold the workpiece with one hand while you cut with the other (no need for fancy dogs and cats to steady the piece.)

    http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...laner-tear.htm

    ps
    My conclusion is that this guy makes videos because he obviously has injured himself and can no longer reproduce.

    jim

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Simi Valley, Ca
    Posts
    148
    COOL, a power planer. Problem solved!

    Thanks guys,

    Marc





    Joking... really.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by David DeCristoforo View Post
    "http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...laner-tear.htm"

    You gotta be kidding!?!? You are... aren't you? Please... DON'T WATCH THIS! RUN AWAY... VERY FAST!
    LOL yes of course I am. Someone posted this video a while back and I am nearly addicted to it. Its like watching a 10 car pile up in slow motion. FYI the inanity of this video pales (by far) in comparison to Rob's "traditional handplanes vs. the power plane" video.

    ps
    Last edited by Chris Padilla; 05-08-2009 at 4:33 PM.

  12. #27
    "...his video pales (by far) in comparison..."

    No... no, thank you... I've seen enough. (BTW I knew you were kidding... at least I was pretty sure.. that is I was hoping you were... I mean well really... (ahem) oh, never mind.)
    David DeCristoforo

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    2,854
    I wonder if we could get together a petition of SMC members to send to OSHA to get this guy taken off of the net. I've little doubt that his antics is going to cost a newbie somewhere a few fingers.

  14. #29
    All you naysayers. If you had bothered to read the video transcript, you would have realized that while you all are describing how to shoot end grain, "expert" Rob is in fact describing the little known procedure of planing ingrain.
    As anyone knows, the only way to shoot ingrain is freehand, with a power planer set at full depth. One must also be willing to sacrifice all the digits on your left hand.

    Regards,
    -Chuck
    Video Transcript

    Avoiding a Tear Out When Using Hand Held Power Planer
    Rob McMahon with Expert Village. One nice thing about a power planer is that it works on ingrain. Now we are going to resquare this rounded end here. What you want to do is avoid the tear out of the ingrain. When you are coming in this direction, this last little area is going to want to blow out, so we will take it to full d

  15. #30
    This article was illuminating too:

    http://www.ehow.com/how_2215968_comp...sus-power.html

    In particular:

    Notice a cleaner cut when you use a power planer rather than the old hand planer. A power planer that is used to cut with the wood grain has a more controlled cut and cleaner cut.


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