Design critique and building suggestions

[Eric Brin]

Well I am designing a built in desk. Two people will be using this desk at the same time. I'm grappling with the desk top. It's currently modeled as 3 x 3/4" MDF layers. I was concerned about sag. It will be supported on both sides and at the "bottom" of the T. I can also run a cleat along the wall to support it. The "bottom" of the T is six feet out from the wall. The back is open to the wall and I may end up painting the wall. I thought about putting a back on it, but didn't know if I could hide the seems well enough.

The piece will be painted except possibly the desk top. I don't like formica. I thought about veneered plywood stained to match our other cabinets. Could this be made tough enough to withstand writing on a single sheet of paper?






Here is where it will be installed

[Jamie Buxton]

MDF does have a well-deserved reputation for sagging. Why not use plywood instead? It'll cost you a couple of bucks more, but is much stiffer.


My desk, which is something like thirty years old, has a top made from standard hardwood-veneered plywood -- that is, cherry over some softwood core. It does not show evidence of being written on.
(Nowadays, I think that people rarely write on single sheets of paper. We use computers for many things. When we actually write, it is into a checkbook or notepad or the like -- not a single sheet of paper on a desk.)

[Eric Brin]

MDF does have a well-deserved reputation for sagging. Why not use plywood instead? It'll cost you a couple of bucks more, but is much stiffer.


My desk, which is something like thirty years old, has a top made from standard hardwood-veneered plywood -- that is, cherry over some softwood core. It does not show evidence of being written on.
(Nowadays, I think that people rarely write on single sheets of paper. We use computers for many things. When we actually write, it is into a checkbook or notepad or the like -- not a single sheet of paper on a desk.)

I think your plywood suggestion is a good one. Do you think three 3/4 layers is sufficient? I just spoke to my Wife and my Mom, the designers in the house, and they are on board with a formica top. They points out the another piece we had made (a murphy bed with a desk) is actually covered in formica with a wood edge. I never noticed and that's a good thing. So we may use a leather looking formica and that will make my job easier.

[Steve Jenkins]

If you want the thick top look how about using one layer of ply and edgeband with 3/4 x 2-1/4" solid stock.It would be a bunch easier, lighter, and less expensive. I think it would be plenty stiff too. The areas over the lower cabs could have a couple ribs going front to back under the top to reinforce those areas.

[Todd Burch]

I would make a torsion box. 3/4 ply on the top (even MDF core is fine), and then ribs of oak or other hardwood, and then maybe 1/2" for the bottom. I would leave a gap in the middle underneath as a wire chase.

[Danny Thompson]

What Steve said, but with several stretchers running crossways under the ply, in addition to the edging. Also, maybe make the edging 1" with a 1/4" rabbet.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm sure it'll look fabulous regardless, but here's some food for thought on the design.

It feels cramped to me. If it were me, I'd keep the desk the same as the way you have it now, where both users are facing the wall. You can bump out the desk a few inches - either with a rounded or trapezoidal profile to provide more depth. More importantly, altering the front edge profile can give users the feeling that they're not sitting on the same side of a table.


If you are set on the current configuration, then I think you need a second leg at the t-intersection between the desk and the counter top. There will otherwise be a lot of stress on the counter, let alone the desk.

[Jim Kountz]

+1 for the torsion box design. Thats going to give you the most strength without overthinking this whole thing.

[Eric Brin]

Well I have decided on torsion box. That should help keep the weight and cost down. The desk will be covered with a wood look Formica. Now I'm looking for some help on finishing the piece. I will be priming with oil based Kilz. Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that I can put any kind of paint on top of the Kilz.

So I'm not sure what type of paint would be best. It will be a medium/dark tan color to match another piece. I really like the paint on the other piece, but I'm not sure what type of paint it is.

The wife has approved buying an inexpensive HVLP gun and I'm considering the Wagner from Gleem. I would like to use this to paint this piece. Being a desk/bookshelve I am very concerned about durability. What do you guys suggest?

Should I post a new question in another forum?

[Eric Brin]

I just wanted to follow up on this project. I ended up purchasing the Wagner from Gleem and I couldn't be happier. I am using Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Latex Acrylic. I went with a 5 parts SWPC, 3 parts water, and 1 part XIM latex extender. Works like a champ. When I first started spraying it was coming out rough, like gritty almost. I realized if I up the paint flow and turn down the pressure at the gun to 12psi it shoots great. It's not perfect, but better than I expected being the first time I have ever used a spray gun.

I haven't yet worked on the top. That's coming soon.