Milwaukee 2.25HP 5616-24 : Good for router table?

[Tom Overthere]

Is anybody here using the Milwaukee 5616-24 "upside down"? If so, how's it working out for you?

I thought I'd get the 3.5HP 5625-20 strictly for router table use, but the smaller router combo would be a lot more versatile (swapping the motor between table-mounted fixed base and freehand plunge base).

This'll be my first "real" router table and I don't want to underpower it.
So is the Milwaukee 5616-24 (2.25HP with variable speed) a good choice for router table use?

If I attempt any raised panels, I promise I'll take multiple passes...

Thanks, Tom

[Paul Greathouse]

It will do a good job with smaller bits and it will even handle an occasional raised panel with many passes. I have a Porter Cable 7518 in my table and I have to make multiple passes using 3" raised panel bits even with it.

If your going to do an entire kitchen full of RP doors, don't even consider using the smaller router in the table but if your just going to make 1 or 2 doors here or there it will be OK.

Here's a tip for raised panel doors. Set your tablesaw blade at an angle and take off as much material from the panel edges as possible with the tablesaw before running it through the RP bit. Not only will it save wear an tear on your router but it will also lenghten the life of your raised panel bits.

[Joe Scharle]

I've had the -20 for 4 years or so. I bought 2 extra bases so I could leave one in a R/T, one in a horizontal R/T and one for free hand use. Since the motor just 'pops' right out of the base, it goes from use to use easily. It is no more difficult to handle than any of my 2.5hp routers free handed. The extra bases were about $40 delivered.

[scott spencer]

Hi Tom - I've got a 5625 (15 amp, 3-1/4hp) and a Freud FT1700 (13 amp, 2-1/4hp) for my router table. The 5625 has an easier time of spinning the big panel raising bits, but the FT1700 is more than adequate for occasional raised panels, so there's no reason the 5616 shouldn't be too. My 5615 was really stout for an 11 amp router, and as is the 5625, so I'd assume the 5616 is pretty beefy too.

You may find that you want separate routers for table and hand use though...

[John Thompson]

I've got both... I use the 3 1/2 HP under the talbe dedicated and the 2 1/4 HP hand held. Both are hosses but I would suggest going that way if you spin any very large bits frequently. You could try it and if you run into that scenario.. add the 3 1/2 HP down the road.

Sarge..

[Tom Overthere]

Thanks for your replies/advice. Well, clearly the best approach is to buy both routers. I knew that would be the concensus (grumble).

I carry my wallet in my back pocket and, hey, I think I just felt my Visa card kick! .

'Going to have to think about this some more...

[Gary Curtis]

I use only the 5616 in my router table. I like the above-the-table height adjustment feature. I also like using it hand-held for lots of operations. Mine doesn't have all the bases. No need for those, since I also have a DeWalt 625 and a Festool.

And I avoid the larger diameter bits. For instance a vertical panel raiser bit takes the place of a 3-inch monster, so why go down that road? I've never sensed a lack of power.

Gary Curtis

[Tom Overthere]

I use only the 5616 in my router table...and I avoid the larger diameter bits. For instance a vertical panel raiser bit takes the place of a 3-inch monster, so why go down that road? I've never sensed a lack of power. Gary Curtis

Gary, I am SO glad to read your comments. No doubt everyone here has the experience to back up their points of view, but yours, in this case, fits so nicely in my wallet!


What's in your wallet? -- As per the television commercial

Answer: Sawdust, and that's about all...