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Thread: Renaissance Wax and buffing.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Central Indiana
    Posts
    955

    Renaissance Wax and buffing.

    Is there any reason not to buff Renaissance Wax on my Beal buffing system?

    How do you apply/use
    Renaissance Wax?

    Thanks,

    Toney

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    Good question! I haven't used the Renaissance or Conservator's wax yet but do plan on it as I have only heard good things! Would be nice to be able to buff everything out!
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
    Become a financial Contributor today!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    I use Renaissance wax on some pieces. It dries almost instantly. I buff it on my beall buff and it really comes out nice. I apply it with a soft T-shirt and it doesn't take much.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    I was told to use a different buffing wheel for Renaissance wax and the carnuba wax normally used with the Beale system to keep from getting the buffing wheel tontaminated. The same type buffing wheel could be used, but you should not mix the waxes. Any authority out there on this?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    I don't mix my wax wheels. I have 3 wax wheels for the Ren wax, carnuba and one when I apply beeswax on the lathe then buff it. My granddad told me never to mix it so I don't.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  6. #6
    I'm agree with Bernie. Don't mix any wheels. Each and every compound should have it's on wheel including different waxes. Even though it's a "final" wax, the different waxes can have different compounds or mixes that may not be compatible with others which could compromise a piece's finish or even ruin it. Play it safe, keep them seperate, and you'll be fine. Most catalogs that sell the set also sells individual wheels as well.

  7. #7
    i used Renaissance wax on small box that is dry, top has not warped in over 2 years, and now i need to sand the top, it was endgrain

    the wood was mahoney, anybody do a better job of spelling?

    did i use too much??????
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Toney,

    I switched from carnuba to renaissance wax exclusively. I used some sandpaper on the spinning carnuba wheel to take the carnuba off. I can't imagine ever going back to the carnuba, as the ren wax doesn't show fingerprints, doesn't make water spots if it gets wet, and looks great. Use it sparingly, it only takes a little bit. I bought the larger size can, and have used it on 20 or so bowls, and some boxes at misc other turnings, and have only used about 1/2 inch out of the can. I usually buff with the beall buff on bowls but have found that you can also hand buff on smaller things. As Bernie said, the wax dries very quickly, if you coat the inside of a bowl and then the outside, the inside is ready to buff when you have put it on the outside.


    Steve





    Steve
    When all is said and done--more is usually said than done.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Detroit, MI
    Posts
    1,661
    I've been thinking about trying the Renaissance wax (mighty expensive wax though). I just got my Beall buffs, and don't have carnuba on it yet -- I was holding off since I figured I would use renaissance instead. Looks like another trip to Woodcraft...

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