Which coping/fret saw to get?

[Phil Thien]

I'm not sure if this is neander or not, please go ahead and let me know if I'm in the wrong place.

I'm trying to cut dovetails. So far I have using a chissel to remove the waste. That is a lot of loud chisseling.

I've heard that some people use a coping or fret saw to remove the bulk of the waste, and a chissel to clean-up. Sounds quieter.

Coping saws seem to have pretty wide blades.

I think fret saws have narrower blades (which would be a plus although I understand they are more delicate).

And I noticed that my hardware store sells blades for scroll saws and I wondered if anyone makes a hand frame for using those out of the machine.

Where should I start? Are there a good/better/best coping/fret saws? And where do you get 'em?

[Ed Nelson978]

Pretty much any coping saw will work. Follow the kerf from the DT saw and turn to clear the waste. I made this saw which I really like because it tensions the blade much more than the store bought models.



Plans came from Bob Smalser.

[Casey Gooding]

The fret saw is finer, therefore it breaks much easier. They also have no pins in the blade and take a bit to get them set nicely. With much finer teeth, I find they take quite a while to cut.
I find coping saws easier. They have pins on the blades and are easier to set. They do have thicker blades, so you have to make two passes, instead of one with a fret saw. However, you can do it in fewer strokes, so it really evens out.
I have had good luck with the Kobalt coping saw from Lowe's. I heard good things about the Olson coping saw and recently ordered one, though I haven't received it yet. They are available from several sources (Tools for Working Wood, Rockler, Highland Woodworking among others).

[David Gendron]

I use a turning bow saw, the gramecy bow saw and it work like a dream. What I find with coping saw, is that the frame is to flimsy and the blade are a little wide. As for the fret saw I never tryed one buy never herd good thingds about theme so far!

[Ken Werner]

http://www.robcosman.com/tools_fret.php

There are less expensive fret saws you can buy also. I think the key is to use the blade size Rob Cosman recommends . It cuts quickly, smoothly and way better than a coping saw blade, in my opinion.

5" scroll saw blades, 12.5 tpi skip tooth

[Don Dorn]

I bought the Cosman saw at Woodcraft - same saw, same adjustments. It works fine, but I've been chopping them so long, cutting them is a much tougher adjustment than I thought.

The problem I'm encountering is that there is no longer any mass when you chop to the line. I'm back cutting slightly, but still find it more messy than using chisels from the onset. Possibly practice makes perfect, but so far, it has not been a time saver at all, even though the saw works as expected.

[gary Zimmel]

I also use a fret saw. Seems to work for me.

The blade is the one that Ken mentioned.
If you use a fret saw make sure you put a little twist in the blade after it is installed. If you don't the top of the saw will hit your board as you cut.

[David Gendron]

The thing I find with using fret or coping saws, is the blades are so shorte, it take to much time. with the bow saw I have, the blades are twice as long so I need twice as less stroke to get the wast out of the way, espacialy if you gang cut them, with a 5" blade if your stock is 3/4" then you end up with 1 1/2" so you have only 3 1/2" of blade that clear the cut... Whit the bow saw you have more like 8 1/2" of blade that clear the work!
what do you think?
Tom Fidgen on is blog was just talking about that recently and this guy cut a lot of dove tail by hand these days. you can find him at www.workingwood.ca

[David Gendron]

I realy like Ed's saw! I think it would be better than a fret or coping saw!

[Phil Thien]

I was kinda figuring you guys would have me converting dollars to Swiss francs and sending oversears for a saw. Looks like I can just visit Woodcraft and get a coping and fret saw and try 'em both.

[Danny Thompson]

The Olsen coping saw and, alternatively (seconding David), the Gramercy Bowsaw are both highly recommended. The Olsen is available at www.rockler.com. It and the Bowsaw are both available at www.toolsforworkingwood.com.

With either of these, you will want to make the cut in 2 passes (A curved diagonal down and a straight across) because a dovetail kerf is usually too tight for a coping saw to make a sharp enough turn at the corner.

[Jim Koepke]

As with so many things there are as many views as there are people who answer the original question.

Fret saws, it seems people either love them or hate them. I like them better than a coping saw. All of mine have been bought from auctions on line.

I have not tried a bow saw. It looks a little awkward to me for doing small work.

Here is a link to a thread with pictures of my fret saws:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...49672#poststop

I have not had the breaking blade trouble that others have mentioned.

For cutting dovetails, coping or fret saws can certainly decrease the noise level. One may still need to do a little paring after the sawing.

jim