Yet another Black Lacquer Q.

[Stephen E. Anderson]

I have been reading the posts on here about how to lacquer furniture, but seem to have a question unanswered. I have decided on targets products just from what I have read on this site, but still a little confused on what to use. USL has been mentioned here alot, but if you search it on targets site you get nothing. I beleive Jim Becker said that they had a matte black paint as well and again a search on their site reveals nothing, although I do see the white. My question is,,,, is the black lacquer finish a lacquer that has black in it or does it have to painted first. I saw stains on their site as well as pigments and dyes but not paint.

This subject has been discussed many times so I hate to bore you, but I do appreciate any responses to set me straight. By the way, I am lacquering a cedar lined armoire and will have some other questions as well about to seal the cedar or no.

[Todd Burch]

Lacquer is typically thought of as a clear substance. However, pigmented lacquer are quite available (most cars, for instance, used to be painted with pigmented lacquer).

So, to answer your question, the "black lacquer" has the color (pigment) already added to it, and is available in the sheen you desired.

On the other side of all your options, you can paint first, and then use clear lacquer. I've done this with black milk paint. Works great.

Also, on a cherry table I built several years ago, I wanted a semi distressed / worn look. So, I first primed the wood, then shot a medium dark brown lacquer, then a black lacquer. I was not able to find flat black lacquer at the time. I was bummed. I then sanded through the black to the brown, and when the Mrs. approved, I shot a medium flat clear lacquer. She got the "distressed" look and I got the flat look. A match made in heaven.

I just looked for my post on that table... I guess I never posted any pictures. I'll do that later this evening.

Todd

[Conrad Fiore]

Stephen,
The USL has been replaced with the following.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/c...quer-32-1.html

The EM6000 is available in clear and pastel base. The pastel base is not a deep base, but I believe Target is working on one. If you want to spray a black tinted lacquer, then you will have to use the clear and tint it with something like the following.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/c...ents-26-1.html

You can try Homestead Finishing for pre-tinted USL/EM6000
http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...etcoatings.htm

[Phil Phelps]

If you have a chance to visit a real paint store, you'll find most carry several brands of lacquer. You can have custom colors mixed in lacquer. You can buy high gloss and, using a flattening agent, adjust the gloss to semi, eggshell, to flat. All pigmented lacquers settle, sometimes like a rock, and need to be stirred vigorously. You need to thin lacquer with the proper lacquer thinner,(climate), to fifty percent and strain through a nylon stocking before spraying. Lacquer is a great product. You must practice safety with all combustible products, however. That includes most wives.

[Michael Pyron]

You need to thin lacquer with the proper lacquer thinner,(climate), to fifty percent and strain through a nylon stocking before spraying.

NO, you must spray lacquer at the proper viscosity for your system...some lacquers come pre-thinned and some require thinning to be able to spray...what really matters is the exact viscosity of your mix, and the type of thinner you use (slow, medium, fast)...

for example, some automotive lacquer I use is meant to be reduced...the manufacturer states from a 1:1 ratio (lacquer:thinner) to a 1:2 ratio...I go for about a 1:1.4 ratio...some pre-catalyzed stuff I use is supposedly ready to spray out of the can...I've found that adding 15-20% thinner gives the results I desire....

to determine viscosity one can acquire a Zahn #2 cup and take measurements and keep records and have complete control of the viscosity of materials being sprayed...

There are NO set rules for reduction of lacquers other than when one decides to use retarder (which is NOT thinner)...retarder is a chemical (mix) that slows the curing time of lacquer and must be used sparingly, if at all...obviously if one mixes the product too thin it will run down vertical surfaces, if its too thick it may not flow out or even spray at all in a particular system...

for reference read the PDS of the lacquer to find out what the viscosity is straight out of the can...

also, let's remember that the OP is inquiring about USL (which as noted has been discontinued and replaced with a similar product) which is a water borne product...

[Phil Phelps]

[QUOTE=Michael Pyron;1126513]NO, you must spray lacquer at the proper viscosity for your system...some lacquers come pre-thinned and some require thinning to be able to spray...what really matters is the exact viscosity of your mix, and the type of thinner you use (slow, medium, fast)... etc........ and so on......
I forget, sometimes, that I do this for a living and that's been going on for over 42 years. I read the mixing instructions on the back of the product. Some industrial and automotive lacquers require 150% reduction. However, we were talking industrial, pigmented lacquer, and for that it's about fifty percent. If you are using a material you aren't used to, you test it first. I can tell when I stir the lacquer what it needs.

[Stephen E. Anderson]

Mr. Conrad Fiore and Todd, thank you so much for the links and the info. I will try the pre-tintned USL that Homestead has. This will give the Piano black finish that I want? I am no stranger to working with wood or finishing it, but I have never done a "painted" surface. This has to be perfect!

As far as Micheal and Phil go, sorry to open a can of worms!!!!!!!!!