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Thread: Where to buy 220 volt power cord?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Alachua, FL
    Posts
    170
    I bought #12 Flex Cord at Borg as well as a locking receptacle for the wall and a twist locking plug! That way it will not be trying to unplug itself and I like the safety of a locking plug.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Luther Oswalt View Post
    I bought #12 Flex Cord at Borg as well as a locking receptacle for the wall and a twist locking plug! That way it will not be trying to unplug itself and I like the safety of a locking plug.
    just dont trip over the cable and do a nose dive into your floor

    flat blades pull out of the wall when you snag one by accident

  3. #18

    2 Different Approaches

    I couldn't bring myself to cut off that nice factory installed 110V molded plug on my new TS so after switching the leads at the motor for 220 operation, I made up a short adapter cable the bridge it over to a 220 shop made extension cord. So, when I pass it on someday, it can easily be switched back to 110 if necessary.

    For my 7 1/2 HP planer, I found it cheaper to buy a 10-3 GA extension cord, and then switch the plugs over to 220V ones.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,280
    Quote Originally Posted by John Carlo View Post
    I couldn't bring myself to cut off that nice factory installed 110V molded plug on my new TS so after switching the leads at the motor for 220 operation, I made up a short adapter cable the bridge it over to a 220 shop made extension cord. So, when I pass it on someday, it can easily be switched back to 110 if necessary.

    For my 7 1/2 HP planer, I found it cheaper to buy a 10-3 GA extension cord, and then switch the plugs over to 220V ones.
    That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.

    Not to mention it doesn't meet code........Regards, Rod.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    15,332
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    ...Frankencord. Rod
    LOL! My apologies but that just had me rolling on the floor...aptly named!
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,280
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla View Post
    LOL! My apologies but that just had me rolling on the floor...aptly named!
    Glad to be of some use on a Friday afternoon.........Regards, Rod.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    I like that too - Frankencord. I'll be using that.

    John, some things were just made to be cut, like hair, umbilical cords, the cheese, and inadequate power cords.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.
    That was GOOOOOD!!!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742

    Smile

    Mine's an SJ00W E54864-G 300 V with appropriate plug/recept. No probs at all.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Chappell Hill, Texas
    Posts
    4,741
    Several years ago, probably 1999, I was wondering what all the code letters stood for on power cords. So I searched and looked it up on the internet.

    "SJ", for instance, stands for "service junior". If you see the letter "O", that means "oil resistant".

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sisters, OR
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Coull View Post
    Wes,
    You don't have to make it, you just need to know where to find it. Here's a website :

    http://www.rvupgradestore.com/browseproducts/30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord--25'.HTML

    Good Luck,
    Jimmy
    That cable is rated for 110 volts only. There is actually an almost horror story on here about an electrician using RV plugs on a heater, caught the plug on fire.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    South Windsor, CT
    Posts
    3,304
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.

    Not to mention it doesn't meet code........Regards, Rod.
    Actually, the NEC has nothing to do with extension cords. The cord isn't part of the building wiring.

    While it might sound odd, rewiring the connection at the saw's motor and building a special cord that will plug into a 240v receptacle works. Another way for John to do it would have been to swap out the cord on the saw. That way if he ever needed to go back to 120v, he'd just put the original factory cord back on.

  13. #28
    Using 120V caps on a 240V application is about as wise as using a match to determine how much fuel is is in the gas can it's too easy to screw up & mismate a connection. BTW, there was a reason why NEMA created all the plug/receptacle configurations for different voltages/amperes/phase ...........



    I lost a ballast on a portable floodlight once because of such foolishness, so am quite touchy about it.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    South Windsor, CT
    Posts
    3,304
    Rollie,

    I would agree that, given John's desire to leave the factory cord uncut, the best way in that situation is to remove the factory cord, save it, and install a cord with proper 240v plug. That way the original 120v cord is intact and you don't have the "frankencable" potential you describe.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Rollie Meyers View Post
    Only problem is you get what you pay for, cheap cord stiff in cold weather, flexible in warm/hot weather.

    BORGS stuff as stiff as the one I bought at HF few years back. IMO the difference, ONLY one, was cost. BORGS almost 2x as much....nonsense.
    Then again that mighta been sale priced too - I'm cheap

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