I bought #12 Flex Cord at Borg as well as a locking receptacle for the wall and a twist locking plug! That way it will not be trying to unplug itself and I like the safety of a locking plug.
I bought #12 Flex Cord at Borg as well as a locking receptacle for the wall and a twist locking plug! That way it will not be trying to unplug itself and I like the safety of a locking plug.
I couldn't bring myself to cut off that nice factory installed 110V molded plug on my new TS so after switching the leads at the motor for 220 operation, I made up a short adapter cable the bridge it over to a 220 shop made extension cord. So, when I pass it on someday, it can easily be switched back to 110 if necessary.
For my 7 1/2 HP planer, I found it cheaper to buy a 10-3 GA extension cord, and then switch the plugs over to 220V ones.
I like that too - Frankencord. I'll be using that.
John, some things were just made to be cut, like hair, umbilical cords, the cheese, and inadequate power cords.
Mine's an SJ00W E54864-G 300 V with appropriate plug/recept. No probs at all.
Bill
On the other hand, I still have five fingers.
Several years ago, probably 1999, I was wondering what all the code letters stood for on power cords. So I searched and looked it up on the internet.
"SJ", for instance, stands for "service junior". If you see the letter "O", that means "oil resistant".
Actually, the NEC has nothing to do with extension cords. The cord isn't part of the building wiring.
While it might sound odd, rewiring the connection at the saw's motor and building a special cord that will plug into a 240v receptacle works. Another way for John to do it would have been to swap out the cord on the saw. That way if he ever needed to go back to 120v, he'd just put the original factory cord back on.
Using 120V caps on a 240V application is about as wise as using a match to determine how much fuel is is in the gas can it's too easy to screw up & mismate a connection. BTW, there was a reason why NEMA created all the plug/receptacle configurations for different voltages/amperes/phase ...........
I lost a ballast on a portable floodlight once because of such foolishness, so am quite touchy about it.
Rollie,
I would agree that, given John's desire to leave the factory cord uncut, the best way in that situation is to remove the factory cord, save it, and install a cord with proper 240v plug. That way the original 120v cord is intact and you don't have the "frankencable" potential you describe.