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Thread: New lathe coming, but need to wire for it.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rincon, GA near Savannah
    Posts
    111

    New lathe coming, but need to wire for it.

    Well, I fell into the vortex, and instead of saving to buy the mustard, I went ahead and ordered a Jet1642 from ToolNut while the sale was going (thank you all for your recommendations).

    Only problem is I figured I had time to get the 240 outlet installed before it got here. It's here, I'm going to pick it up this afternoon.
    But I wanted to ask what everyone recommended as far as breaker size, 15, 20, 30, or ? I assumed a 20 would be sufficient with 10/3, but anyone have a better suggestion? Did it have a cord/plug already installed from the factory?

    I'll get some pics when it's all setup and turning.
    Thanks
    James

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Loudonville, NY
    Posts
    517
    I just got mine last weekend and ran a wire for it. Note - I am not an electrician, but I did wire my entire shop from a sub panel.

    I already had a 30A breaker not in use, so that is what I used. If you run a 20A circuit, you really only need 12 gauge wire; which would probably be enough to run the lathe. It is rated at less than 16A. However, liking to over design things (I engineer) I would choose the 30A. With that said, you do need 10 gauge wire for 30A. One thing I did learn last last weekend was that you do not run a 10-3 for this, only a 10-2. Basically, two hot legs and a ground.

    The other reason I like the fact that I had the 30A, is that I can run a gast vacuum pump off of the same circuit as it uses relatively low current. I'm always planning for those future projects.

    The only other thing I can think of right now is how far you would be running the wire. If its only a couple of feet I wouldn't worry too much about losses. Once you get up near 20' or so, I would begin to pay attention. With the 10-2, you would be fine (in my non-expert opinion).

    Good luck.

  3. #3
    The 1642 would be fine with a 15 amp breaker. The 10 gauge wiring is way overkill, and if you are using Romex you'd be better off with 12/2. 10/3 is harder to work with, more costly, and also has a neutral wire which is not needed, unless you are making a 120/240 dual circuit.

    One question to ask yourself is do you see using the circuit for any other tools, either now or in the future? If so, you may want to size the breaker accordingly. A 20 amp breaker with 12/2 wiring will handle about any 3HP tool you want to use it with. The 10 gauge wire may be justified if you think you would ever need to run a 5HP tool.

    The lathe does not come with a plug, so you'll need to buy both ends. Personally, I use a 6L-20 (locking, 20 amp) plug on mine because that's what all my 240 tools are configured for.

  4. #4
    I ran a 20A (12 guage wire) circuit for my mustard. Breakers are not very expensive, and I had plenty of 12 guage wire around after running all the other 110V circuits in my shop. Also you will need a 2 pole breaker for the 240...a single pole breaker won't work. Both legs of a 240V curcuit are hot legs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
    Posts
    1,186
    I vote for biggest breaker. You will begin to add things to your line. Compressor, sanders, lights, fans, dust collection, drills, bandsaw...etc.

    I believe my mustard uses either 14 or 16 gauge wire. My 3 hp Grizzly bandsaw uses 16 gauge, recommended by the factory. My shop is on dedicated lines so I have know what's being drawn.

    I often have the DC running (5 hp) along with either the bandsaw or lathe. I've yet to blow a fuse.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    James - looking forward to seeing photos of your new lathe!

    Wire gauge really depends on how long of a run you have. I had a long run - so went with a 20 amp breaker and 10-2 wire. I also ran another box along side of the one for the lathe - for my Gast vac pump. Like J. Greg just mentioned - I also use the 6L-20 plug and connector set and believe that is the way to go!

    Another thing on your new lathe - as long as your lathe is plugged in it has power applied to the logic circuits. Everyone I know of unplugs the lathe when done for the day. That way - you do not worry about power spikes, lightening or anything else.

    Have fun setting your lathe up!
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
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  7. #7
    I used a 20A double pole breaker with 12/2 wire and a regular 20A 230V plug. Of course I probably should have used the locking plug since the factory wire ends wouldn't go into the new plug and I had to cut them off.

    But it all works fine anyway.

    And I unplug it at the end of a session also.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rincon, GA near Savannah
    Posts
    111
    Thanks all, I messed up with the 10/3 reference. I was thinking I'd use a 30amp breaker I already have (was going to power up a well pump), so that would mean 10/2 and the associated 30amp plugs. (I was kind of going with the non-locking, but maybe not).
    I guess I should have said a bit more on the specifics. This is my only 240v tool (all others are 120) and I'll need to make a new drop on the other side of the garage (from the main panel) about a 30' run. I think I'm still good on the 30amp 10/2 with that lenght, but I'm not an electrician (brother is, and will help/check behind me).

    I was also wondering on placement of the lathe, and how close to the wall I can get it. I don't think I'll be doing any outboard turning before I get a proper shop. Mostly smallish bowls, and spindles and eventully hollow forms. Should I have it far off of the wall or can I place it fairly close?

    Thanks again everyone for the help.
    James

  9. #9
    a 30' run of 10/2 is going to have negligible voltage drop, breaker it at 30 amps and you'll be set.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    torrance, Ca
    Posts
    2,072
    I use 10/2 and a 30 amp breaker, but I also put my grinder, a bunch of light, drill press, compressor, and stereo.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by James K Peterson View Post
    I was also wondering on placement of the lathe, and how close to the wall I can get it. I don't think I'll be doing any outboard turning before I get a proper shop. Mostly smallish bowls, and spindles and eventully hollow forms. Should I have it far off of the wall or can I place it fairly close?

    Thanks again everyone for the help.
    James
    I have my Headstock just far enough away from the wall to get the kock out tool in the headstock. If you lack for space you can always slide your headstock down the bed to get the tool in if need be, would be a pain though. I don't have a lot of room on the sides, enough to walk around comfortably is about it. My tailstock end is the most spacious, nice for turning the inside of the bowls.
    If it ain't broke...fix it anyways...that's why you told your wife you needed all those tools.

    My gramps' fav.....If you don't stop, you won't be stuck.

    Oh......and most importantly........I am 362 miles mostly south and a little east of Steve Schlumpf.
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