220v Cord Reel

[Michael Pyron]

thanks for the correct education guys...I guess I can put another chalk mark on the imaginary chalk board of people who have given me incorrect information...

let me query this: with excess heat is there not a corresponding loss of efficiency? i.e. a loss of available current?

one thing for sure, I cannot usually be accused of using a cord that is too thin (at least compared to what others typically use)...the smallest cord I have are a few 14 ga. 25' I use for sanders and such...I typically use a 25' 12 ga. if possible, and go to 50' 10 ga....haven't found an easy source for anything larger so I use 10 ga. also for 100'...and when possible I use 220v for 100' and split into 2 legs of 110 if for no other reason than with a temporary power pole too many people are plugged into the available amps on the 110 side...

[Bruce Wrenn]

Instead of a reel, why not use a piece of SJO cord (10 ga). Mount a sheave on the ceiling at central location, with cord through it. At the wall, near the ceiling, mount a second sheave, with cord through it. Then add a weight on a sheave to cord, to take up slack. Weight would have to be "sized", so as to not pull cord up, unless assisted. Other end of the cord is fastened to a box, with a strain releif, near ceiling height. Cost a lot less than a cord reel. For the sheaves, you could use a pair of in-line skate wheels, with a "U" of 1" X 1/8" flat steel. Cord would ride between the wheels. Be sure the wheels are in contact with each other, as you don't want cord to drop down between them. A stop could be added to the cord to prevent it from going through the sheave. Used in-line skates can often be found in thrift stores for less than $10. A pair would give you the materials for four sheaves.

[Dan Friedrichs]

let me query this: with excess heat is there not a corresponding loss of efficiency? i.e. a loss of available current?

Indirectly, yes. The heat doesn't cause the loss of available power, it's just a symptom of it.

Your cord has some very small resistance to current flow. The power dissipated in the cord is the current squared times that resistance. While the resistance is usually very small (copper or aluminum is a pretty good conductor, after all), if you pull a lot of current through the cord, that current squared times the resistance ends up being a significant power loss.

Thus, you may be able to measure 100W going into the "start" of the cord, but only 80W coming out the other end - the rest of the 20W was dissipated as heat from the resistance of the cord itself.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Never:
- Coil a conductor
- Mistakenly put oil in your radiator instead of anti freeze
- Take a swing at a State Trooper

Bad and expensive things can happen...

& no details won't follow

[Glenn Roberts]

Guys. I can't believe what I am reading. The price you pay for 220 volt leads. Coming from the land where tools are cheaper than air and your leads are that expensive?? Is it just the 220v uints that are expensive?
Maybe we could do a swap, some of your cheap tools for our 240V extension leads!! We could meet half way, maybe Hawaii?

After seeing what a coiled extension lead does ( complete melt down) I would not suggest any coil of lead (irrespective of current used) Pendant switches hanging from the ceiling would be a much safer idea.

[Mike Cutler]

Darryl

To add a little bit to Dan and Rick's posts. The conductors(leads) don't care, and don't know what voltage they are carrying. Two conductor 12 gauge can handle either 120 or 220 it's the current that would be the limiting factor. 12 AWG is 12AWG, the current carrying capacity is the same for a given voltage. The difference between the 15 amp and the 20 amp will be the configuration of the receptacle housing, and how many devices can be plugged into it.
The only heavy duty rating I have come across on extension cords is for the outer jacket to resist cuts,tears, insulation properties, provide UV protection and provide some form of strain relief. In the case of the ReelCraft product I would also guess that the return coil spring to rewind the cord may be of a beefier design.
Extension cord reels can be a really nice tool. They keep the floor clear of unnecessary lengths of power cord, tripping hazard, and only the amount of cable required is flopping around. As for becoming a fire hazard, yes they can be and a lot of industrial facilities don't allow their usage because they can't control the manner in which they are used.
Used to power a machine, within their amperage rating, for a short duration is no problem. Using one to power multiple other extension cords that are powering an unknown number of electric space heaters, and lights on a continuous basis was a problem. So was modifying one to add cable length to an electric chain hoist. That one became a fuse.

[Kendall Landry]

I am wondering if the difference from medium to heavy duty is just the recoil mechanism/case, or something else.

Extention cords have a temperature rating.
The heavy duty 15 amp may have a lower temp rating than the 20 amp.
Even though 12 ga. should be good enough to do 20 amps at 40 feet,
the 15 amp cords insulation may have a lower temp rating.
The 15 amp may be aluminium core or may be recycled copper.

They mention that the heavy duty are acceptable for 220v if you supply your own connectors, but don't mention 220v for the medium duty cord. They also don't say if they are UL approved if you use the heavy duty as 220v.

Personaly, I wouldn't trust my saftey to a company that says I can cut up their 110 extention cords to make 220s.
Buy them purpose built and the heaviest duty you can find.

If a cord is a cord, is it worth an additional $150 for the heavy duty, and do you need a 20A reel, or is 15A enough to run a 5hp table saw, shaper, etc?

You need 30 ga. for 5 hp motor.
Use drops or put your machines against the walls. Your oners manuals
give the right wire size. Buy it by the foot and rewire the machines for the lenght it needs.

[Dan Friedrichs]

...
Personaly, I wouldn't trust my saftey to a company that says I can cut up their 110 extention cords to make 220s....


You need 30 ga. for 5 hp motor.

Why not? Again, the cord doesn't care what the voltage is, as long as the insulation is rated for that voltage. The insulation on virtually any cord or cable you'll ever buy is good for thousands of volts. Just make sure it's thick enough for the current you want to pull.

30ga seems a little small. Personally, I use 28ga on my 5HP machines

[Kendall Landry]

Why not? Again, the cord doesn't care what the voltage is, as long as the insulation is rated for that voltage. The insulation on virtually any cord or cable you'll ever buy is good for thousands of volts. Just make sure it's thick enough for the current you want to pull.

Dan, your talking to the OP about electricity. I'm talking to him about safety.
If by the slimmest of chances that rigged up cord catches fire, you know who
the Fire Marshal is going to blame.

30ga seems a little small. Personally, I use 28ga on my 5HP machines

My mistake...
10ga for 30amp for 5hp