Table saw bog down

[patrick ramsey]

All-
Thanks for your responses and suggetions. After reading all of your thoughts I suspect the only thing that could be wrong is a dull blade. As I have just recently spent an entire Saturday adjusting and aligning my saw, including installing a new set of flex belts. The blade was clean and I thought it was sharp, and the stock was four square. This was the first cut that I had a problem. So I guess it's off to the sharpener.

[John Parker]

Have you checked the alignment with the blade tilted? If not, check it out. Maybe your table is not set up for a bevel cut. Try cutting with the blade at 90deg. If it cuts ok it probably needs set for beveled cuts.

[Lee Schierer]

All-
Thanks for your responses and suggetions. After reading all of your thoughts I suspect the only thing that could be wrong is a dull blade. As I have just recently spent an entire Saturday adjusting and aligning my saw, including installing a new set of flex belts. The blade was clean and I thought it was sharp, and the stock was four square. This was the first cut that I had a problem. So I guess it's off to the sharpener.

Well, I think I see your problem. You state that you installed a set of flex belts. The link type belts are not well suited for running in pairs as their lengths will vary and the tension on each belt will not be equal. Most likely your link belts are slipping and not delivering the full power of the motor to the blade. Go back to the matched set of belts you had and see if your power returns. My guess is that it will. You may still want to clean your blades, but try the belts first.

[Chris Padilla]

I think everyone has you covered and for what it is worth, I do not think you should be using a THIN KERF blade with your 3 hp saw. What you gain in removing less wood could be lost in that blade potentially flexing. Heat build up could also be a problem and ruin the blade.

In my opinion, thin kerf blades are designed for underpowered saws, which you do not have.

[patrick ramsey]

Chris & Lee Thanks
will try your ideas.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm thinking Sarge nailed it, unless there is also a belt slippage problem. Forrest WWII is a good blade, but it is not a rip blade, and a long bevel in 6/4 oak is a fairly aggressive cut. Perhaps several factors are ganging up on you? Not quite the right blade, not quite full belt tension due to using link belts instead of matched V belts, a little tension released during the cut, a little flex fro the thin kerf due to heat or tension in the wood, none of which might cause the problem on its own but the cumulative effect is problematic?