HF 10 inch Compoud Miter Saw

[Lewis Ehrhardt]

Anyone out there have one of these? If so, how well does it perform? I bought the Chicago brand sander and was surprised at how well it has held up. I really put it through some hard floor sanding. For $20.00 bucks, can't imagine justifying a higher price sander for what I do. But, just curious about the miter saw.

[Gary McKown]

Do you mean the $99 (typically) SCMS? If so, I have had one of the older model (single rail) units for almost 5 years now. I expected it to last for maybe a year, but it still is going strong (on the original set of brushes, even). I use it mainly for chopping boards to rough length, but it is fairly accurate for general crosscutting and mitering, too.

The newer dual-rail model seems to be built a bit more flimsily, but it should work well at least for non-critical cutting.

[Stephen Edwards]

Anyone out there have one of these? If so, how well does it perform? I bought the Chicago brand sander and was surprised at how well it has held up. I really put it through some hard floor sanding. For $20.00 bucks, can't imagine justifying a higher price sander for what I do. But, just curious about the miter saw.

Got a picture or model number of the saw? Can you post the link to the saw that you're considering? HF has several.

I bought one a few years ago, not a slider. For the money I paid for it, it does what I expect it to do. I don't use it often, though. I don't use it for any real precision work.

My only gripe with the one that I bought is that it tilts in only one direction, to the left. It looks a lot like this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91995

Back when I bought mine their sliders looked to be very chintzy. Perhaps they've improved now. I don't know.

[Lewis Ehrhardt]

This is the one I was looking at. I've touched it and twisted on it some, seems just as stury as many name brands. Not sure how accurate of course. But the mechanism seems fairly positive. Sure it's not a high price unit, but for much of what I do, it might prove adequate.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98199

I've used several of HF tools for some time, as I have said, sawsall, sander, angle drill, hammer drill, grinder, and they surprised me. Of course, if I used them professionally, they might not last as long, but for occasional usage, it seems to be that these are tools that have been too long neglected and ones that might be considered esepcially in these economically challenged days. What do you think folks?

[Gary McKown]

Lewis - that's the newer model of the one I have. I forgot to mention - it still has the original 60-tooth "C2 carbide" blade on it, too. Not a Forrest but not too bad, either. Oh, and it is LOUD!

[Chris Tsutsui]

I have HF tools and brand name ones.

The sander for example... The HF model will vibrate your hand more, be less comfortable to use, and probably be louder. Though it will still get the job done as long as you arn't using HF brand sand paper which will lose it's grit in a matter of seconds... heh

The miter saw I consider to be a precision machine and I would hope that a budget SCMS would be able to cut accurate and stay dialed in.

I'm not saying you won't get perfect cuts with a HF model, I would just check to see that the angles are setup right with a good gauge. I like the Wixey digital angle finder... Though I know that HF even sells a clone of that angle finder. haha

[James Carmichael]

I used a BIL's slider a few months back. I wouldn't waste my money on it. It's fine for what he's using it for.

[Stephen Edwards]

I would just check to see that the angles are setup right with a good gauge. I like the Wixey digital angle finder... Though I know that HF even sells a clone of that angle finder. haha

Chris,

Can you provide a link to the HF clone of the Wixey digital angle finder. I've searched their site recently and couldn't find one. Thanks.

[george wilson]

I never use a sliding miter saw,but had to build shelves for the shop.Didn't have room to manipulate 8' boards. I bought a cheap GMC (?) brand saw from Lowe's.

I never could get it to cut quite square. First thing I did was buy a blade whose teeth weren't dipped in thick paint!!

It would only cut nearly square. I discovered that if I pulled the saw all the way out,and pushed it INTO the wood,it cut pretty square. But,it REALLY makes a sawdust mess when cutting that direction.

The lazer was a joke,but I don't use them anyway. More expensive saws have less play sideways when you pull them out towards you.

The saw was o.k. for shop shelving,though I would never use it for any serious work,and it weighs a lot less than more expensive saws,so I can store it,and get it out with my back trouble. I haven't any place to permanently mount it.

It is a tool I never have use for,like I said,or I'd have gotten a better one. Today I saw one last Hitachi compound sliding miter saw at Costco for under $400.00. I wouldn't want to have to lug it around,though !! The new Festool is the most rigid SCMS I have seen,but it costs something like $1300.00. If I used that type of saw,I'd sooner get a radial arm saw.

[Ray Dockrey]

It would only cut nearly square. I discovered that if I pulled the saw all the way out,and pushed it INTO the wood,it cut pretty square. But,it REALLY makes a sawdust mess when cutting that direction.

Unless I am reading something wrong that is the way you are supposed to use a sliding miter saw. Pull the carriage out past the wood, pull down to start your cut, then push it back while cutting.

[george wilson]

Maybe I did use it wrong? Like I said,I never had a use for them.Like a radial arm saw,those I saw using theirs in the Millwork Shop always pulled them out while cutting. It is less messy. Maybe I should have looked in the trash for the instructions??? Now that the shelves are built,the thing just takes up space in my smallish wood working area.

[george wilson]

Ray,I have verified that you are correct.You push the saw into the cut. I assumed that it was used like a radial arm saw,and it does make a big mess when you push it into the wood. Now,I wonder why the saw is used the reverse of the radial arm saw?

The type of work I do does not include the use of the SCMS. I wish I had known the correct technique before. Now,I may not use it again for years,but glad to have learned this from you.Thanks.