Cutting board detail questions

[Ken Platt]

Folks -

I'm making a batch of cutting boards for presents, first time I've made cutting boards. Obviously a straightforward project in the basics, but I figure that what separates a hunk of wood from a cherished present is in the details. So -

Do you put feet on your boards, or otherwise make them functionally one-sided? I have some of those little insert grippy things, but I'm torn between whether it's better to have the boards not slide around vs being able to use both sides of the board. I'm also considering putting a cove on the undersides of the ends of the boards for an easier pickup/finger grip. Again, though, this would make it a one-side-use board. Thoughts?

While we are on the subject of grips, I'm wondering what the deal is with the cutouts. There seem to be a lot of boards with cutouts, but it doesn't seem to me that these serve any real function. The boards I use daily have some, but I never use them to hold the board, and I've never seen anyone hang a board up on a hook. So, are those really just decorative, or do others find them useful?

Next, how do folks put a juice groove around the perimeter of a board? I have a core bit, but I'm unsure how to make the groove flow smoothly around the corners. I guess a template and bushing would work, but that's a bit of a chore for a one-off board. Is there another way I'm not seeing? Or do you just use an edge guide and have the groove meet at an angle at the corners of the board?

Lastly - you guessed it - finishing. I've read many threads on this, but I'm wondering a couple of things. First, where does one get walnut oil? Second, I saw a thread on the wood whisperer site about using thinned varnish on end grain boards, so that it soaks in rather than forming a surface film. Anyone try this?

Thanks for all thoughts, comments, etc. I want to make these boards nice, but also usable. Some of the incredible boards I've seen pix of, I'd frame and hang on a wall rather than use.

Ken

[Frank Drew]

Ken,

I made a cutting board for my brother and sister-in-law years ago and turned bun feet for it, attached with single screws each.

I've also routed half-round recesses in the end grain of a couple of boards I've made, stopping an inch or so in from the corners; makes it easier to pick up a heavy board and doesn't limit it to one-face use.

Mineral oil is easy to find, doesn't get rancid, and protects the wood to some degree.

I've never cut a juice groove but I think they're nice features; I think you're on the right track with methods to cut them. Some routers come with single-roller guides that would track around a rounded corner fairly well. I think my Bosch had one.

[Dan Gill]

I prefer to leave my boards without feet. This allows folks to cut on one side and display the other. They don't slide around on me. The only one I make with a groove is one with a Texas-shaped groove, and so I have to use a template.

Mineral oil is the thing to use for finishing.

The handles can help to pick up a heavy board, and also to slide them out of an overhead cabinet. I've done them with and without.

[Richard McComas]

No feet on mine. The reason being it is recommended to help prevent cross contamination to cut meat,chicken and fish on one side and veggies on the other.

This may sound dumb but that what I read.

For a finish: Mineral oil with bit of wax melted in to the oil.

[Tom Esh]

I don't put feet on mine - might as well let 'em use both sides. As for grips or edge treatments, I just grab the biggest roundover bit I have and make stop cuts on both ends and both sides. The resulting ramp of sorts makes it easier to slide fingers under and pick up. Decorative cutouts are fine, but I prefer them big enough to use as a handle. For finish I like Keft's Wood Cream - a food-safe wax/oil formula. I rarely put a perimiter groove in mine, but the easiest way is to use a solid rectangular template, double-stick tape it to the surface, and rout around the edge with a guide bushing and a bowl or core box bit. (I put radius on the template corners first as I find it nearly impossible not to over-run square corners without leaving burn marks.)
CBedge.jpg

[Bill Huber]

I do use feet on my boards, this keeps them from sliding on a counter. I may not need to but it sure keeps them in place. I just use the stick on square ones from Ace Hardware and they last for a long time.

I put a cut out on the bottom of the boards to pick them up with, it works very well being that I use feet and only one side.

I put a juice groove on my boards, it just make it better when cutting some veggies that have a lot if juices in them. If you don't have one the juice will run off the side and then gets all over the counter top and make somewhat of a mess.

I use a template that is 1 1/2 inch smaller then the board and a Bosch Colt with a guide bushing and cove bit to cut the juice groove.

There is a lot of talk about the finish and a lot of people just go nuts when you say you use Mineral Spirits and Salad Bowl finish on them but that is what I have used on all the boards I have made (50 now). I use the 50/50 like Marc talks about on his site. When done right it last forever and does not need maintenance all the time. I put it on and let it soak though the board and then turn it over and do the other side letting is soak though again. I do this 2 times and when finished I let the boards set out in the sun for a day or 2 and then let them set in the shop for a week before they are ready.

Here are some of my boards and also the way I make the groove and the handle cut outs.

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/cutting

[Eric L. Severseike]

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I'm also making a cutting board - what's the consensus on the best glue to use - I'm debating between Gorilla glue and Titebond III.

Thanks,

Eric

[Chris Padilla]

For the glue, Eric, the Gorilla POLY glue is messy to use but would work just fine. I don't have any experience with the Gorilla WOOD glue. TB-III would work just fine.

[Bill Huber]

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I'm also making a cutting board - what's the consensus on the best glue to use - I'm debating between Gorilla glue and Titebond III.

Thanks,

Eric

I use Titebond III on all of mine, I had one board that was left in a sink of water over night and the glue joints held, now some of the wood cracked but the glue held.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

It would take an extra step, but I make my boards all end grain. Make a checkerboard pattern. The reason is longevity, chopping on end grain is much better. Looks, not so good, but just my 2 cents. I also take a chamfer bit, and chamfer the edges then put a long grain frame, also with a chamfer. This creates an all around blood groove. Biscuit joint, since it's then cross grained.
Glue with waterproof Titebond. (II I believe). Finish with butcherblock oil (Mineral oil)

Oh, if you do end grain, and the cutting board is actually used, in the long run it looks "better" since a knife mark does not look as pronounced, for some reason. When you get a knife gouge in long grain, it's very noticeable, IMO. Since the end grain is already "ugly", the knife mark is not as noticable. It may be that the knife mark will always be running across the grain, making it obvious.

[Lee Koepke]

My only additional comment is in regards to using Walnut oil ( and walnut boards for that matter ) ... there are some people that have walnut allergies, so if gifting, be aware.

I have only made one cutting board ( for me ) and used mineral oil / parafin wax combo on cherry & maple wood. Rubber feet, no juice grooves.

[Ken Platt]

I appreciate the responses.

One point my wife made when she saw the post was that feet, especially grippy ones, would make it hard to slide the board into wherever it is stored. I've gotta admit, it's a good point. I took out and replaced our current boards a few times, and if they don't slide past each other, it takes two hands to get it into the upright storage place.

I tried some mineral oil on a leftover piece of the end-grain board, and disliked that look. I wasn't wild about it on the regular face grain either. I found some walnut oil, so I'll try that.I have some paraffin wax I could try also. Guess I'll just have to experiment on scraps like usual...

Ken

[Basil Rathbone]

Bill, when you refer to mineral spirits, is that the same as paint thinner, varsol or turpentine or is it something different? I have not been able to find anything labeled "Mineral Spirits" but that may be because they are all the same thing. I plan on using it on my end grain cutting board the same way Marc did, also.

[Bill Huber]

Bill, when you refer to mineral spirits, is that the same as paint thinner, varsol or turpentine or is it something different? I have not been able to find anything labeled "Mineral Spirits" but that may be because they are all the same thing. I plan on using it on my end grain cutting board the same way Marc did, also.

This is what I found on Goolge.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-mineral-spirits.htm

Mineral spirits is also known as Stoddard solvent.

That about all I can really come up with. The one thing you have to do is let it dry for about a week.

[Frank Drew]

Basil,

Mineral spirits and what's sold as "paint thinner" are the same thing, as is Varsol, Esso/ExxonMobil's proprietary mineral spirits. True turpentine, however, is quite different, not being a hydrocarbon.