Cutting board detail questions

[Eric DeSilva]

Just to throw in another $0.02, when I made a couple cutting boards, I did so for serious cooks (me & my mother--my sister gets #3). That means hefty--mine is about 15" x 20" and 2" thick end grain maple. The one I did for my mother is about 12" x 18", 2" thick cherry. Sanding end grain cherry or hard maple takes a long time. A really long time.

The reason for end grain is that when a knife blade is applied to it, the knife blade slips between the end grain fibers. When its cross-grain, the blade cuts through the fibers. As noted by others, that leaves a more noticeable mark. More importantly, its a lot less friendly to your knives.

Anyway, I went with mineral oil. With end grain, it really, really soaks it up. When I do one for my sister, I'm just going to pour a bunch in a flat tupperware and float the board in it overnight.

No feet. I like reversibility. But, to combat sliding around on a granite counter, I use a bit of left over non-slip carpet stuff. Basically just rubber sheet. Put on counter, put board on sheet. Works like a charm.

[Brian Penning]

Folks -

Second, I saw a thread on the wood whisperer site about using thinned varnish on end grain boards, so that it soaks in rather than forming a surface film. Anyone try this?

Ken

I've switched to the thinned varnish and find it great. Lasts a lot longer and easy to re-apply.
Would never go back to mineral oil.

[Jason Hallowell]

Feet, handles, juice grooves, cut-outs etc. are all a matter of personal preference for whoever will be using the board. Some will find those features useful, and others will find them a nuisance. I do a lot of cooking, and my preference is for very plain cutting boards without any feet, grooves, handles etc. FWIW, you may notice that most cutting boards found in restaurant supply stores where chefs shop are the same simple configuration.

I much prefer end grain cutting boards to long grain. When cutting on an end grain board, the blade is able to slip between the fibers of the wood to some degree, rather than cutting them, which reduces the dulling effect on the knife blade, and causes much less damage to the board. End grain boards can easily withstand a decade of hard use with virtually no hollowing effect, whereas a long grain board will start hollowing within a couple of years in a place like my kitchen.

I've tried several finishes, but prefer plain mineral oil. I put it on thick and let it soak in for a day and then re-apply a couple of times. I also advise anyone I give one to that they should wipe it down with mineral oil once every six months to a year depending on how much use it gets.

[Basil Rathbone]

Bill,

All your boards look great, especially without any router burn marks like I got on my board (my first). I haven't cut my groove yet but will be using a Hitachi router with both a fixed and plunge base. I'm not sure which would work out better. Any advice?

I am planning on making my groove 1/8" deep and hope that any burn marks will be gone with light passes.

Also, do you have any sage wisdom for routing end grain as opposed to routing with or across the grain?

Thanks, Basil

[Bill Huber]

Bill,

All your boards look great, especially without any router burn marks like I got on my board (my first). I haven't cut my groove yet but will be using a Hitachi router with both a fixed and plunge base. I'm not sure which would work out better. Any advice?

I am planning on making my groove 1/8" deep and hope that any burn marks will be gone with light passes.

Also, do you have any sage wisdom for routing end grain as opposed to routing with or across the grain?

Thanks, Basil

On the round over part of the board I still get a burn now and then when I slow down to much. I do the round over on the router table and not hand held, I guess I just feel it is easier with the table.

On the groves I use a template and use double back take to hold it to the board to make the groove. I make light cuts and slow the router speed down and make half the cut at a time. http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/86916112

I use my Bosch Colt to do the groove and it has a fixed base. I use a bushing to run along the template. I make a cut from the top right to the lower left then turn the board and make that same cut again. For some reason I just can not make a full cut all the way around without burning at some point.

To cut the groove I use this bit in the 3/8 size. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...%20Nose%20bits


In general I use a good bit, clean and sharp. I slow the router down some and when cutting don't slow down, keep moving or it will burn.

[Pete Schupska]

I've always preferred an equal mix of mineral oil+parafin+Bee's Wax applied with a heat gun. It seems to buff well, and needs refreshed only once a year or so.

As for feet, the first cutting board I made (hard maple and walnut) had none. It was a gift for my sister, and she has only used the "bottom" so the "top" stays unblemished.

Just a thought.


Anyone every used Hickory for a cutting board, or Elm? I suspect they are both a little too open grained for safe use.

[Keith Outten]

I realize that these aren't a favorite around here but these are my preference for cutting boards that are going to be used.

They are dishwasher safe which means that they will be washed regularly because it isn't a chore.

They are absolutely food safe, in fact Corian is approved for use in hospital patient care areas.

They can be routed without fear of burning, go fast or slow it makes no difference.

They don't require any finish to be applied, the surface is non-porous so the contamination issue isn't a problem.

When the surface shows some wear it takes about five minutes with a random orbital sander to make it as good as new.

Everyone that I have made has been from free material, sink cutouts from a local top shop.

I have never had one returned and every one of them is used for its intended purpose.

Many use them as lap trays, TV trays, etc.

Just another alternative to consider!


.

[Phil Thien]

They don't require any finish to be applied, the surface is non-porous so the contamination issue isn't a problem.

Hold on there, chief ():

http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/fa...ttingboard.htm

In addition to our laboratory research on this subject, we learned after arriving in California in June of 1995 that a case-control study of sporadic salmonellosis had been done in this region and included cutting boards among many risk factors assessed (Kass, P.H., et al., Disease determinants of sporadic salmonellosis in four northern California counties: a case control study of older children and adults. Ann. Epidemiol. 2:683-696, 1992.). The project had been conducted before our work began. It revealed that those using wooden cutting boards in their home kitchens were less than half as likely as average to contract salmonellosis (odds ratio 0.42, 95% confidence interval 0.22-0.81), those using synthetic (plastic or glass) cutting boards were about twice as likely as average to contract salmonellosis (O.R. 1.99, C.I. 1.03-3.85); and the effect of cleaning the board regularly after preparing meat on it was not statistically significant (O.R. 1.20, C.I. 0.54-2.68). We know of no similar research that has been done anywhere, so we regard it as the best epidemiological evidence available to date that wooden cutting boards are not a hazard to human health, but plastic cutting boards may be.

[Keith Outten]

Phil,

I have read this before but I discounted it because it doesn't make any sense to me. Plenty of people use plastic plates, knives, forks, cups, and a whole host of other plastic items for food prep and consumption purposes. Plastic products are the mainstay of the medical field used in almost everything that involves food and drugs from storage to application.

If I have to make a choice based on what I think is the safest material for my family I will stick with Corian for cutting boards. I have read that some species of wood are advantageous based on natural properties that counteract some type of bacteria but this isn't the case with all wood species.

When it comes to getting a cutting board clean I have faith in plastics because they are a non-porous material. Wood will soak up grease, blood and even detergent making it much more difficult to assure that it is clean. I have to "Just Say No" to the laboratory research on this one particularly their position that "the effect of cleaning the board regularly after preparing meat on it was not statistically significant"
.

[Keith Outten]

I'm surprised that Phil was the only one to challenge my position concerning wood versus plastic cutting boards.

Concerning the details you can tell I prefer blood grooves and handles. The blood grooves help contain the mess protecting the counter top from being contaminated. The handle is because I know that some people have problems with their grip and the handle makes it easier to control the board during use, when washing them in the sink or when they are placed in or removed from a dishwasher or cabinet.
.

[Phil Thien]

I'm surprised that Phil was the only one to challenge my position concerning wood versus plastic cutting boards.

For the record, I'm not 100% sold on the data. I guess I would classify the study as "somewhat reassuring," not "the definitive word."

[Mike Cruz]

Keith, I have been considering posting pics of my turkey cutting board, but just hadn't gotten around to it. Since you brought up your prefference for blood groves, well, it inspired me to post some pics of it. I've had this for about 7 years or so. There are rubber feet on the bottom. No handles, but the rubber feet give it enough room underneath to pick it up.

[Keith Outten]

Mike,

Thats a nice looking cutting board and your blood groove was planned to a "T". It's unlikely that a drop of juice will excape the board and end up on the counter top. I can see the oval dished out area that is connected to the blood groove around the perimiter of your cutting board. Very Nice!
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[Paul Ryan]

I've always preferred an equal mix of mineral oil+parafin+Bee's Wax applied with a heat gun. It seems to buff well, and needs refreshed only once a year or so.

As for feet, the first cutting board I made (hard maple and walnut) had none. It was a gift for my sister, and she has only used the "bottom" so the "top" stays unblemished.

Just a thought.


Anyone every used Hickory for a cutting board, or Elm? I suspect they are both a little too open grained for safe use.

I made cutting boards from walnut, white oak, hickory, red elm and have never had any problems. I don't see how hickory and elm are any more open grained than anyother wood. Of all the woods I use on a regular basis hickory is by far the toughest and strongest wood. It is a pain to work with because it burns and splinters easily and is like sanding a piece of iron. Even though I face all of those challenges it is my favorite wood.

[Mike Cruz]

No juice has escaped yet, and we've had some mighty juicy birds! Thanks for the compliments.