Right tilt vs left tilt TS?

[Mark Boyette]

After 20 years on a right tilt unisaw our shop bought a left tilt saw stop 2 years ago. I bought the old (1964) unisaw from my work for a song. I'd take a right tilt over a left everytime. Mostly because I do a ton of dadoing.
as far as 45* cuts, the right tilt never gave me a problem.

[Cary Falk]

I have always used a right tilt and like it. I now have a 1970 RT Uni. $350 is a great price for a Uni.

[Karl Brogger]

99% of the time when making a bevel cut you'll want to use a left tilt tablesaw.

Right tilt is nice for dado-ing, you can dial it in for the head, then you're not adding 5/8 to everything when machining parts.

I have both and I am glad that I do.

[george wilson]

It is an annoyance to have to change the fence to the left hand side of the blade every time you make a tilted cut. That means cranking the blade down,and removing the guard,etc., at least it did with the original Delta fence. Then,you have to move the fence back again,reversing the reinstallation of the guard.

[Myk Rian]

Buy the saw, get it cleaned up and looking pretty, then sell it for a profit.

[Guy Belleman]

I saw a saw advertised on the Chattanooga craigslist, listed as a Unisaw, but it is a Delta 2000, a contractors saw with a 1 1/2 HP motor. With the table and long rails, and unifence, it might be well worth the $300.

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/1190330895.html

The saw may suit your needs well, just be advised that it is not a unisaw.

[Von Bickley]

I learned on a LT.

I have a RT now that was a gift and I hate it everytime I have to miter an edge. I will NEVER have another RT in my shop.

Did I mention that I don't like RT table saws.......

[Chris Padilla]

I didn't realize table saw blades tilted!!

Since most folks use the blade at 90 degrees (or 0 degrees depending upon your reference) for about 99.99% of cutting, get a good quality table saw and then "deal" with the tilt when you need it.

I grew up with a RT, I bought a new Grizzly 1023Z RT in 2000, and so RT works for me but frankly, if a good quality LT came along at the right price, I wouldn't hesitate.

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks for your input folks. I'm gonna stick with my left tilt 'cause that's what I'm used to and what I like.

I did talk with the guy last night and emailed him with info that I think would help him to sell his Dad's old Unisaw. Honestly, I don't know much about those saws except what I've read and learned from other Creekers.

I notice this morning that it's no longer on the Nashville CL. I don't know if he sold it or has removed the listing to reword the description, possibly using some of my suggestions. The poor fellow didn't know what he had and I hate to see someone get taken when what they're offering for sale is in fact one of the "gems" that comes along just once in a while and their asking price is a fair price. You know how it is with a lot of people, they just MUST negotiate a lower price. I encouraged him to be firm with his price of $350 and I let him know that he had a very desirable saw that many woodworkers and old machine buffs are seeking.

The saw appeared to be complete and original except for the switch with only minor surface rust on the top and cabinet, very minor.

It may show back up for sale or he may have sold it last night. If the latter is the case I bet he got his asking price and someone got a great deal on Unisaw.

Thanks again for your input. I appreciate it.

[Stephen Edwards]

I saw a saw advertised on the Chattanooga craigslist, listed as a Unisaw, but it is a Delta 2000, a contractors saw with a 1 1/2 HP motor. With the table and long rails, and unifence, it might be well worth the $300.

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/1190330895.html

The saw may suit your needs well, just be advised that it is not a unisaw.

This one was for sure a Unisaw. He sent me a photo of it. He had it listed only in the Nashville CL. One of my suggestions to him was to also list it in surrounding areas.

Thanks, though, for the tip.

[Ray Dockrey]

Just to add I had a right tilt contractor's saw for years and went to a left tilt Unisaw. I really like the left tilt better and to me it seems more natural and I am right handed. I think in the end it is just a matter of preference.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

OK. Call me ignorant, but what does the right tilt and a dado have to do with anything? The dado is at 90 or 0 which ever way you measure. Not sure what was meant by adding the 5/8".......

I have a left tilt saw. I don't have a dado blade yet, so I cut dados with my router... LOL

[scott spencer]

OK. Call me ignorant, but what does the right tilt and a dado have to do with anything? The dado is at 90 or 0 which ever way you measure. Not sure what was meant by adding the 5/8".......

I have a left tilt saw. I don't have a dado blade yet, so I cut dados with my router... LOL

With a right tilt saw, the blade (or dado) registers against the flange with the right side of the blade, meaning that any thickness changes make no difference to the zero reference point of the measuring tape. The 0" reference point remains the same regardless of blade thickness. On a left tilt saw, the blade or dado registers against the flange with the left side of the blade, meaning that as the blade thickness changes, the zero reference point gets skewed...much more so with the dado set than a single blade. It's not much of a problem though...I just measure by hand whenever I use my dado set with my left tilt saw.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Ah. TYVM. I see what the difference is. It has to do with the arbor. That would also make a difference with a thin vs full kerf blade too......

I just love this forum......

Now I'll just have to remember to always buy full kerf blades.....

[Chris Padilla]

Now I'll just have to remember to always buy full kerf blades.....

For a cabinet saw, that is all I would use. IMO, I think thin kerf blades only have a place in underpowered saws.