PVC threaded cap not air tight

[Robert Reece]

I posted this in off topic because I know there are some good thinkers hanging around here but the question sure isn't about woodworking.

I am making a waterer for my chickens which consists of a 4" PVC pipe hung vertically on the coop. At the bottom, I drop it down to 2" and then form a 180 that goes under the coop where the chickens are supposed to drink. I cut the pipe off just above the top of the trap such that when the chickens drink it down a little bit, some air will escape up into the tube and the water will refill. See attached picture.

However, the threaded cap at the top is not air tight. So the whole thing doesn't work. I have sealed the cap with pipe dope (liberally I might add) and I still can't get it air tight. I have turned it as far as I can with a big set of channel locks. I can't even get it off now.

What would be your next move in terms of finding something that air seals at the top? I have a few ideas, but want to hear other ideas. One thing the top does have to do is let in water and let out air. I had planned on just sticking a garden hose in the top to fill this thing up.

Rob

[David Christopher]

Try a ball valve

[Stephen Tashiro]

Is the top going to be taken off and on? If so, I think you need something like flexible plug or at least a gasket. I don't know how to incorporate a gasket in the threaded connection.

A wild but inexpensive idea would be to revise the top so it was a simple smooth connector and try to cast a big plug from this material:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=112893

[Rod Sheridan]

Robert, threaded caps for cleanouts have a flange with a rubber gasket, one of these might be ideal for your application.........Regards, Rod.

[John Fricke]

I like David's idea. You could reduce your fill point down to 1" or so and place a PVC ball valve there. at that point you could either incorporate a threaded fitting to leave hose attached all of the time or just fill through the ball valve opening. There is no pressure involved, you could even incorporate a section of clear hose at the top for a sight gauge. For an even fancier sight gauge drill and tap 1/8" or 1/4" holes near top and bottom. Thread in a hose barb connector then connect a clear hose between the 2. No excuse for chickens to go thirsty again.

PS I much prefer chickens on the grill than in the coop.

[Robert Reece]

I have not seen one of these, are they available at plumbing supply houses? That might fit the bill. I tried a google search, but couldn't come up with a cleanout with flange.

Or maybe a 4" test plug would work? That would be easy to take on and off. I have one, I think I could test that theory.

[Prashun Patel]

Try a a quarter-turn gate valve.

If not, then try a Fernco type cap. It's a rubber cap that tightens to the pipe with a screw band clamp. It'll be cheaper than a qt gate valve.

The test plug might work too.

[Mike Henderson]

I notice you have a valve on the bottom. Put a cap on the top. Then, to fill it, invert it and put your hose in the opening. When full, turn the valve off, and turn it upright. Then turn the valve on.

Mike

[Johnny Pearce]

I use to have Macaws and Parrots, I made watering tubes from clear PVC, that way you can easily see water level without having to open tube. Also check out http://edstrom.com/products.cfm I used their drinking valves with total success. Not sure about chickens but they will work on exotic birds.

[Stephen Tashiro]

I'm curious what would happen if you just put a plastic bag over the top of the thing and taped it with duct tape. The water is causing suction of air into the top, right? Would it pull the bag tight enough to seal?

Maybe Saran wrap would do it.

[Rich Stewart]

Teflon tape.

[Ed Hazel]

Why not something like this you don't have to worry about filling it.

http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/produc...&pf_id=0026138

[David G Baker]

Ed,
I remember from when we had chickens when I was a kid that chickens are dirty. The can water supplies were always loaded with droppings, feathers and straw.
The PVC water supply is neat but there are already tested and tried systems that work very well. Take a trip to Tractor Supply or visit them on line.
If you still want to use your invention, cut the threaded portion of your pipe off and get a rubber cap with a hose clamp that comes with it and cap it off.
You could get a PVC bell reducer that fits your pipe and adapt the smaller end with a valve (ball valve is your best bet), close the bottom valve and open the top valve when you want to fill the pipe and place a funnel into the valve end and fill the pipe.

[Dan Mages]

Teflon tape.

Close but wrong... duct tape!

Dan

[Robert Reece]

Ed,
I remember from when we had chickens when I was a kid that chickens are dirty. The can water supplies were always loaded with droppings, feathers and straw.
The PVC water supply is neat but there are already tested and tried systems that work very well. Take a trip to Tractor Supply or visit them on line.
If you still want to use your invention, cut the threaded portion of your pipe off and get a rubber cap with a hose clamp that comes with it and cap it off.
You could get a PVC bell reducer that fits your pipe and adapt the smaller end with a valve (ball valve is your best bet), close the bottom valve and open the top valve when you want to fill the pipe and place a funnel into the valve end and fill the pipe.

David-

I am just not impressed with the commercially available waterers. Not that mine is any better at this point...but seriously as you point out the chickens are quite dirty. The thing I have they can not roost on or poop on, or any of that other stuff. It should stay pretty clean. I am also in the middle of a small town so these are urban chickens of sorts. I feel like if I could hang the waterer from the coop that I would be saving the space that a 5 gallon bucket sized thing would take up.
I think the answer is either the test plug or the rubber cap with the band clamp.