Straight edge and level suggestion

[Michael Wildt]

Need a straight edge. I do not have one currently and if I get lucky finding a jointer then I'll need one. What do folks recommend, Alu or steel ? long I assume.

I tend to lean towards steel since it will get less nicks over time.


I though my level was fine until last week-end. Turns out it is not as accurate as I thought. Never been dropped or mishandled, so no idea how it got 'challenged'. Any suggestions on a good one since it does not appear it can be adjusted. It's a Stanley fat max level.

Michael

[glenn bradley]

I also favor steel. I went with the LV 36". On the level I would contact Stanly and see if they would stand behind it. There are still outfits that do. Beyond that I have seen good reports on Stabila but own a Stanley.

[Jason Hallowell]

If you want a level thats.... well.... level, it mostly comes down to the individual one, rather than a style or brand. All you need to do a basic eyeball check is a flat semi-vertical surface, and a flat semi-horizontal surface.

Last time I bought a level, I checked all of the 4'ers in the store (over 2 dozen) and none of them were true in all of the sights. I write on my levels with permanent marker to indicate which sights are true, and any that I should disregard.

I check them by putting the level on the wall/shelf/etc, and taking a reading in one sight. Then I flip the level over so that the opposite edge is on the surface, and compare the reading in the same sight. If the sight is true, the readings will be identical. It is surprising how easy it is to eyeball small differences in the bubble. I then repeat for each sight, and choose the best one of the bunch.

As far as a straight edge, I use a starrett machinists straight edge because I have one, but that type of accuracy isn't neccesary for woodworking. Any straight edge, or even ground steel flat stock should work just fine.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

You can make a straight edge to check your jointer. It's from teh web, and I'm just repeating. Not my idea, I'm not that smart.

Get 2 boards/sticks, 1 X 2 or 1 X 1. measure halfway and about 1 inch from the ends. This is the only critical measurement. Screw in 3 screws in each board. Line up the boards and adjust the screws so all the heads touch. Flip ONE of the boards, and adjust the heads again until they all touch. Flip and repeat. When you finally get done, and no screw adjustment is required, you have a 3 point straightedge, accurate enough for your jointer. Note that a straight board is NOT required.

[Russ Boyd]

A straight edge is a straight edge, but as for the level, you can't beat a Stabila. Lifetime guarantee (never needed it in 10 yrs. so far) and accurate even on the bottom bubble when plumbing a door. Spendy, but well worth it if you are using it a lot and need accuracy. Russ

[Curt Taylor]

One more vote for the Stabila. I have both the 48" & 24" and both are very accurate.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Wish I could afford a Stabila...... I don't own one but would love to get one for cheap. IMO they are the best.
I have a 4' Starrett. Close enough. I'm a government worker.

[Greg Crawford]

Aluminum isn't as durable as steel, but you can get a lot more length for the same money. Just personal preference really. I have the LV 50" aluminum, and treat it carefully.

[Chris Padilla]

Aluminum isn't as durable as steel, but you can get a lot more length for the same money. Just personal preference really. I have the LV 50" aluminum, and treat it carefully.

Here are my thoughts on the matter.

For a jointer, I like to set the knives just so they barely NICK the straight-edge. Using a steel straight-edge is a no-no for this method...so I have the Lee Valley/Veritas 50" straight-edge that Greg has. It simply hangs on a nail in an out-of-the-way spot in my garage. Interesting, I see the cost of this has risen a fair amount. I recall paying around $50 for mine. However, even $79 is good for a 4'+ straight-edge...steel ones will cost you $200+ in this length.

That said, before LV had this length of Al straight-edge available, I plunked down some change for a 36" steel Starrett straight-edge. This one is my go to for most things but it is heavy and that 24" LV Al one would probably be easier but I really don't need another straight-edge....

[Chris Tsutsui]

Wow you guys have some nice tools.

I've got a 3 foot empire level and I thought I was splurging because I didnt' get the centech one...

I remember when I was in the store buying a level, I stacked some on the floor and compared the readings of the cheap one and best one.

Find a cheap one that matches the high end one exactly. Give the cheap one a couple of "vibration" tests and see if it stays level. Then you have yourself a winner.

[Chris Padilla]

Oh yeah, and on the level, I just took my NICE straight-edge to the local BORG and measured up several until I found the flattest one and bought it. Now my level can serve as somewhat of a straight-edge. As to brands...Stanely is all I've ever had and used...seems fine....

[Brian Backner]

See this thread from several months ago:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=109976

Brian

[Jeff Dege]

Get 2 boards/sticks, 1 X 2 or 1 X 1. measure halfway and about 1 inch from the ends. This is the only critical measurement. Screw in 3 screws in each board. Line up the boards and adjust the screws so all the heads touch. Flip ONE of the boards, and adjust the heads again until they all touch. Flip and repeat. When you finally get done, and no screw adjustment is required, you have a 3 point straightedge, accurate enough for your jointer. Note that a straight board is NOT required.

I don't think this will work, with just two boards. All the points in a circle will match just as well as all the points in a line. If you had three boards, now, each of which matched the other two, you could be sure that all three were straight.

Also - I think I'd run the screws all the way through the boards, and match the ends of the screws, rather than the heads. That way I could access the heads, and screw them in or out without having to move the boards out of alignment.

[Barry Vabeach]

Jeff, John White's book explains how to make the sticks in some detail and you do need three. Now that you mention it, I wonder why they use the head rather then the end of the screw? He does mention that you need to "sand" the head to make sure there are no burrs, and you use a jig to drill the holes so that there are plumb and line up exactly, but as you say, using the other end of a machine screw has some advantages. I guess the disadvantage is that you would have to counter bore the wood, since you want it to be fairly wide to counteract any bending forces.

[Ben Galluzzo]

Oh yeah, and on the level, I just took my NICE straight-edge to the local BORG and measured up several until I found the flattest one and bought it. Now my level can serve as somewhat of a straight-edge. As to brands...Stanely is all I've ever had and used...seems fine....

That's funny. I was at the local Borg tonight doing that same thing. I probably got some strange looks.

On a similar note. Once I was buying a compass and put a half a dozen out on the floor to compare. No two compasses were pointing in the same direction. I ended up not buying any.