Protecting painted surfaces

[Scott Gebel]

My loft bed project is nearing completion. Material is pine. Once it is painted what can I use on the high abuse areas (desk top and ladder rungs) to protect the paint? I have heard that polyurethane will give a yellowish tint to the paint. Is there another alternative that will stand up to a 4 year old?

[Matt Tawes]

My loft bed project is nearing completion. Material is pine. Once it is painted what can I use on the high abuse areas (desk top and ladder rungs) to protect the paint? I have heard that polyurethane will give a yellowish tint to the paint. Is there another alternative that will stand up to a 4 year old?

Try waterbase poly (I use Target coatings often), its crystal clear and a good durable finish over paint. Actually you might consider using Target water base lacquer tinted with Mixol to the color paint you want. You can get it in flat, satin, semi-gloss and gloss in a clear or pastel tintbase. Can also be tinted at your local paint store to match and is very durable as well. If you already have the paint or want to buy locally just try Minwax, Cabots or other brand waterbase poly over it. Any oilbase poly will give the paint a yellow/amber tone.

[Howard Acheson]

What is the paint you used? If it was an oil based enemel, then overcoating will serve no purpose. Oil based paint is just varnish with opaque pigments. Overcoating it with varnish like poly varnish will not really add any protection. Just add another coat of paint for additonal protection.

As said, oil based clear finishes will add an amber cast to the color of the painted surface.

A waterborne poly acrylic will not be as protective as the oil based paint itself.

Your best bet is to just apply another coat of paint and you should be just fine.

[Scott Gebel]

I used water based paint. So I assume that a water based poly would the best choice?