Opinions wanted - Trestle Table Feet

[Walt Caza]

Hi Again George,
Ya, I considered strength and durability...
I never meant a dowel, I was thinking double rows of dowels ala DowelMax.
I suspect such a joint might be stronger than the wood?

Ya, the end grain would be a weaker joint.

DM's testing, while perhaps somewhat biased, suggests some real good strength.
(braces himself)
be well,
Walt

ps ya, I know, long term durability of dowels is subject to debate due to grain

pss deeply embedded dowels from underneath sounds cool,
anyone care to share pics of this approach?
(not from the invisible side, silly)

[John Keeton]

George, here are the pics. Please understand that I built the base over 20 years ago, and built the existing top nearly 6 years ago. I have learned a lot, refined some skills, and have some much better tools and methods now. I would change some things were I to do it over. But, it functions very well. We seat 12 at the table, and it has held up to the grandkids, craft projects, etc.

The top is constructed of plywood, banded in oak as you can see. It is a full 8', plus two 12" leaves, plus 6" breadboards on either end - total 11' long.
TABLE 4.jpg
The breadboard end is solid, and is affixed to the sliding extensions.
TABLE 3.jpg
We normally do not use the leaves, and I have the “sash clamps” for lack of a better term, to keep the breadboard end secured to the top.
TABLE 1.jpg
There are corresponding male/female clamps on the leaf that are secured when the leaves are in place.
TABLE 5.jpg
I also used the locater pins (male/female) on the breadboard/top and on either side of the leaf. These make it much easier to line up the leaves when they are installed.

I have included a pic of the leg/foot of the table just because that was one of your questions.
TABLE 2.jpg
Hope these help some, but if you need more info or pics let me know. Good luck on your table.

[George Bregar]

John:

Thanks for the pics. Confirms a "strategy" that I thought up on my own, you used years ago, and Woodsmith used a few months ago....using a faux breadboard end as a pull out and dropping the leafs on the end. Must be a winner!

My table will have a solid cherry top, and be about 3/4" give or take. And where you used the "sash clamps", Lee Valley has these little babies, designed for the job:



The slot is eccentric to pull the table tight.

Thanks for all the assistance everyone. A plan is coming together.

[John Keeton]

George, those new LV "clamps" are sweet - wish I had those when I did mine!

[George Bregar]

I know. But I think it's cool that you did the same thing, just with some "yankee" ingenuity.

[Chris Friesen]

I don't think it would be an issue, but if you want some insurance you could drill up from the bottom at an angle and insert some 3/8" or 1/2" dowels, then trim them flush.

[George Bregar]

I don't think it would be an issue, but if you want some insurance you could drill up from the bottom at an angle and insert some 3/8" or 1/2" dowels, then trim them flush.

Yeah, that was Harry's suggestion snd what I will do, just to be safe. Thanks!

[John Keeton]

......some "yankee" ingenuity.

Uhhh....George, I'm from south of "the line", and we don't use cuss words like that! With appropriate apologies to all my fellow "yankee" creekers!

[George Bregar]

Uhhh....George, I'm from south of "the line", and we don't use cuss words like that! With appropriate apologies to all my fellow "yankee" creekers!

Noted sir!