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Thread: Lock rabbet question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Lock rabbet question

    When making drawers using 1/2" ply and lock rabbet joints, I'm assuming you edgeband first. I just made the dado cut for a drawer and as I was setting up for the rabbet cut it occurred to me that it would have been easier if I had remembered to edgeband first. It seems like it would be much harder to trim the edgeband if it was added after making the dados and rabbets rather than before. Are there any problems getting a clean cut through the edgebanded ply?
    Last edited by Rob Blaustein; 07-02-2009 at 8:06 PM.

  2. #2
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    Edgeband first. Use a backer board when routing and you'll be fine. (Or upcut)

    Todd

  3. #3
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    Thanks Todd. I'm trying to decide if I want to use pocket screws or lock rabbet joints for the set of drawers I'm doing. I've never done lock rabbets--seems fussier setup initially but then quick once set up.

    After gluing, do you throw a few brads in? I would guess you would shoot them through the front (or back) lining up with the middle of the side of drawer, rather than through the side. Is that correct?

  4. #4
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    I think a lot of people (myself included sometimes) overbuild drawers for the hardware we use.

    For instance, with high quality ball bearing slides, what's the point in using dovetails? Looks only. When ball bearing slides didn't exist, we needed very strong joinery to take the abuse (and the not-as-good-as-todays glues).

    So, with that laid out, are you using slides, and if so, what flavor? All the brads will do is help to hold the joint together while the glue dries.

    Todd

  5. #5
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    Todd--my only reason for using the brads was as you pointed out-to hold things while the glue dries. These drawers are for a bathroom vanity and so don't need to be as sturdy as kitchen drawers. I'm using Blum epoxy coated roller slides (230M series). So my choice of joint (pocket hole vs lock rabbet) is really one of speed/convenience. I also thought it would be fun to try lock rabbets since I've never made them before--I'm trying them on a test drawer and haven't decided if I'll use that method on the rest or stick to what I've done before and do pocket screws. The drawer boxes will then get a solid wood front applied.
    --Rob

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
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    Lock rabbit or drawer lock joints are very easy to setup. MLCS and maybe others, have How-to instructions on-line. I've never used brads, just a short clamping cycle with glue.

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