Sarge's 8 Legged Mutt... desk-hutch

[John Schreiber]

A great piece of work. I don't know arts and crafts well, but it looks like the style picks up some art nouveau influences.The naturalistic curves contrast nicely with the solid rectangles.

I can't imagine doing that by "seat of the pants." I draw up my own plans, and I modify them along the way, but I need to have them fully detailed before I cut wood. If that's what you call "southern field engineering," I'd settle for that any time.

What's in the back panel with the knob? Where do the wire runs go? You said they are hidden, but you can show us can't you?

[John Thompson]

Sarge-

I like it a lot.

As I have said before, I like QSWO (my material of choice) and this kind of style. If Harvey Ellis were designing for computers I think he would have done what you did. As for large, well, so what? This looks like a functional work or as they used to say - "the best that I can."

I really appreciate how you support the book case and the finish. Now, please come clean - how did you finish it?

Tom

Just about to log off. Thanks for the kind words Tom before I explain the finish.

I normally lay shellac on any piece not intended for bath-room or kitchen that is exposed to water.. steam and will not take abrasive abuse as a kitchen table. But... in this case my wife has a female cat that loves to explore. Miss Abby is at this moment napping in the right upper small compartment so....

I used Bartley's American Oak gel-stain which is the one she chose after giving her several samples. I don't fume these days as I hate using harsh chemicals and the fumes that result. I have been exposed to one too many at this point of life. Easy on... easy off.. let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Then I used Mini-wax gloss poly for the first TWO wipe on coats cut 60%-40% cut with naptha to aid drying time. Naptha evaporates quicker than mineral spirits. A light rub-out between coats with Abralon 500 to knock down some sheen at that point. The gloss cures harder than satin so I want a very hard base under satin. Then 3 coats of wiped satin poly cut to 50%-50% and then allowed to cure for at least a week or until the whole thing gasses off and the finish has cured or hardened.

Still too much gloss sheen at this point for a piece as this which doesn't look right with too much shine. So.. next.. a coat of Liberon Medium Oak wax but.. applied with Liberon 0000 steel wool witht the grain. You kill two birds with one stone here as the 0000 takes down the sheen while you are applying the wax. A rub out to remove the wax and the use of a horse hair shoe brush in tight spots. Let the wax gas off for several days and harden before subjecting the piece to abrasion as say... a lovely little cat with a mind of her own.

BTW... I do apply finish before assembly by taping off male and female joint components. I have done this so often it really doesn't take me long to tape off with with the aid of an Exacto knife to trim. I siimply find it easier to avoid tight corners with finish and avoid any dribbles that might occur. I used to hate and was terrible at finish but in the last 5-6 years have finally come into my own and really don't mind much anymore.

So.. no great revelations on finish. Most hate poly because they apply to thiick and it leaves a plastic look. But... if you understand it and take steps to counter what you know will happen it can become your fiend in lieu of your enemy and avoided at all cost.

Regards...

[John Thompson]

A great piece of work. I don't know arts and crafts well, but it looks like the style picks up some art nouveau influences.The naturalistic curves contrast nicely with the solid rectangles.

I can't imagine doing that by "seat of the pants." I draw up my own plans, and I modify them along the way, but I need to have them fully detailed before I cut wood. If that's what you call "southern field engineering," I'd settle for that any time.

What's in the back panel with the knob? Where do the wire runs go? You said they are hidden, but you can show us can't you?

First.. thank you for the kind words. I probably need a word of explanation on hidden wires here, John. The wires to the monitor.. printer over it and the speakers will not be completely hidden. I do believe the knob you refer to in the back panel is the lower hole cut for the monitor wires. You cannot see it on top as I took the pics from a mid-level but there is a hole on the upper shelves for printer.. speaker wires so all is not hidden even though the monitor.. printer and speakers will hide the exposed wire once in place. I cut a 1" hole up about mid point of the stretcher then hand sawed from the bottom of stretcher to from an arch which gives some geometric resemblance to the rest of the hutch.

But.. when I say hiidden.. I am referred to the Jungle of wire I currently see laying behind my open space for the keyboard on the floor. I see surge protector.. a box for my son's games which flashes a blue light and I have often thougth about emptying a clip from my .45 Auto into to put that light out.. and a tangled mess of wires that could snarl a tiger if he walked across them. I hate those wires.. components exposed and I intended to find a better way.

There is a hidden compartment about 6" deep and the width of the lower center leg area behind the key-board you would only see if you were on your knees viewing. It's closed on the front and looks lie a strethcer. This is where the surge protector and all the other things I have no clue as to what are as I am somewhat computer illiterate will go out of my sight. Any wires traveling from that compartment will be tie strapped and stapled to the back which is conveintly paneled by my design and not seen. Part of my game plan to get those wires I hate out of the picture.

BTW... I hate to build a piece of furniture and then cut a hole in my design to run an electrical wire. I had to sit drinking coffee before I performed the dirty deed gathering courage to do so. After the deed was done... I came about as close to being ill as I am going to get as wires and furniture are not a match made in heaven as far as I'm concerned. But.. this is the new world and this old man is doing his best to step into it regardless. I owe it to my family I suppose.

[Don C Peterson]

Very nice work Sarge...

I'm working on designing a dining room table in the A&Cish style. I've been toying with how I should tackle the legs and I may just borrow your (Stickley's) method.

[John Thompson]

Very nice work Sarge...

I'm working on designing a dining room table in the A&Cish style. I've been toying with how I should tackle the legs and I may just borrow your (Stickley's) method.

Thanks Don.. let me caution you on how to rip those long pieces at 45* degrees if you are not overly familar with that rip cut which you may be. You must IMO use support left of blade that will pin the stock firmly to the fence during the rip. You must IMO use over-head support clamped to the fence to pin the stock to the table. And in advance of ripping.. make a sacrificial push stick long enough to push the stock through with your hands no closer to 6' and one slightly thinner than the stock and over-head hold down to avoid bumping the over-head's lower lip.

The key is one steady movement of stock through the blade so be sure you feed it with the grain of the stock. A slight tilting action can cause the stock to ride up or over toward the blade and if those teeth touch the edge it will gap your fine miter line. I use a sharp 24 T rip blade on all rip cuts. You could use a 40 tooth if.. if.. the stock is not too thick. If the combined height of the stock used for one piece is more than 1 1/2".. I would use a 24 T for sure. And.. doing a few practice pieces from scrap stock will enhance your technique.. give you a better idea of what to expect and confirm your supports are properly positioned before you run the cored stock through. And.. not a bad idea to make a couple of extra pieces of core as I do with most components periid. If something goes wrong.. you already have a back-up sized and prepped as it takes much too much time to start from scratch when you could have done back-ups with little lost time before the fact.

Got if? Good.. I gotta take this computer down shortly as I'm going to attempt to move the works to my "honey's" new desk-hutch. I spent 180 and dry times creating but not that it has been created... it's "hers" according to "her".

Good luck on the dining table and BTW... if you haven't got an abundance of clamps.. start accumulating them. I had over 70 working at once on this thingy I just posted and always was one short of the lenght I needed. How many is enough cannot be answered as you are always one short.. always. ha.. ha...

[Jim McFarland]

Very nice piece! I really like the design, your use of QWSO stock, craftsmanship and the finish you used on it. Great job!

[Ed Sallee]

How many is enough cannot be answered as you are always one short.. always. ha.. ha...

....but, you manage to get by when that "southern field expedience" kicks in!!!

[Don Bullock]

Hey Sarge,

It's great to see the final project. I really like the way it came out. Congratulations on a job well done.

[John Thompson]

Thanks kindly Jim and Don for your kind words of encouragement. It has been a pleasure but frankly I'm glad it's done. This one spanned almost 5 months and most of the carcass work I do takes two months average. But.. this was like two projects in all respects I suppose.

Hey Ed.. with you headed to Minnesota with the bounty of gifts and the clamp shortage that always exist... I certainly hope you locked your shop and the gaurd dog doesn't over-sleep.

[Thomas Pender]

Sarge-

thank you for your detailed and useful answer.

When I do not fume, I do something similar to what you do. However, I do not use Naptha - now I will give it a try. Faster drying is very desirable.

Suggestion - consider trying poly acrylic or the Target coat that is similar - there are some threads on it - used to be URL. I like it better than poly now that I use it. Looks good on oak. but, you have to dye or stain first if that is what you want - I have had good luck with Danish type oils like Watco.

T

[John Thompson]

Sarge-

thank you for your detailed and useful answer.

When I do not fume, I do something similar to what you do. However, I do not use Naptha - now I will give it a try. Faster drying is very desirable.

Suggestion - consider trying poly acrylic or the Target coat that is similar - there are some threads on it - used to be URL. I like it better than poly now that I use it. Looks good on oak. but, you have to dye or stain first if that is what you want - I have had good luck with Danish type oils like Watco.

T

I am very familar with Danish oil (30 + years of using it) and often my choice with nothing more than it and wax in some cases where wear is not a factor. I just needed abrasion resistance on this piece as her feline just loves to nap on the desk and hang from the cubbies when you are on the computer. I would like to try the Target or similar as I hear good words spoken about it.

I have good things about the General Finishes also and might give them a try in the abrasion resistent class. I did try Behlen's Rock Hard Top finish Varnish once and would not use it again personally.

Thanks for the suggestions and hope you like the naptha mix. Pour a bit of naptha on a piece of glass beside a bit of mineral spirits and see just how much quicker the naptha evaporates.

[Todd Young]

Hey John, I’m not sure what impresses me more about this:
I’m a sucker for box joints in drawers. Like Walt said, very tidy and very nicely done.
The leg design to me is amazing. Glad you explained the design and that there are also photos to boot. That technique surely never would have come into my mind without someone putting it there, but I’m sure glad to see how you used it and for the detailed explanation. This’ll go in the notebook for further reference, that’s for sure.
Then there’s the hand tooled trim. Hearing you guys talk about hand tooling and having projects come out this nice leaves me somewhat speechless. True craftsmanship IMHO.
And the kicker…… not only seeing the finished product, the box joints, the wood combo’s, the amazing leg design and hand tooled trim… but then knowing you designed this “on the fly” with “crude notes made on a note pad” and “no plans”…..that to me is the most impressive part of this impressive piece.
Don’t change your ways a bit. If this is senility, I hope to be senile soon and I’m only 42.
A seriously fine piece of work and like others have said, thanks for sharing it.
Todd

[John Thompson]

Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad you like the outcome. On the fly can be a hit or miss but... in this case I got lucky IMO as my visualization met my expectations as I really can't think of a thing I would change and that is rare indeed. Every piece starts with high expectations but sometimes end in poor results. I just keep pluggin' away and I refuse to quit trying anyway.

Hope you get a chance to try the quad-linear legs... just be reminded of some of the tips I gave on cutting them on the TS as even a small error can lead to a throw away and try again. With a little practice you get quite confident at it.

Again.. thanks mucho.....