Can't get a single tapcon screw to work w/out breaking!

[Don Abele]

If you drill the hole bigger than the recommended size, TapCons will NOT hold. DAMHIKT

As for the impact driver snapping them easier...yes, it does produce A LOT more torque, but seems (IMO) to exert less force on the screw and it goes in smoothly. I snapped more heads with my drill than I did with the impact. Doesn't make sense, but that's how it worked for me. I wonder if the impacting (hammer action) has anything to do with it.

Be well,

Doc

[Don Abele]

...Send one in until it snuggs, then back it out and plow the hole a bit more with the drill bit. Repeat with a NEW SCREW again and again until one finally goes in all the way...

Chad, that's a good point - you CAN NOT reuse a TapCon. Driving them once ruins the threads.

Now, as for repeating the process - be careful because you can wind up with a hole too large for the TapCon to hold securely. BTDT

Be well,

Doc

[Tom Esh]

...I snapped more heads with my drill than I did with the impact. Doesn't make sense, but that's how it worked for me. I wonder if the impacting (hammer action) has anything to do with it...
Doc

Perhaps kinetic vs static friction, but the thrust component of the impact blow can also damage / enlarge the bore in materials like cinder block. The best thing I've found for driving the larger sizes is a good old fashioned speed handle:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...et+Accessories
...lot's of torque and control.

[Brad Sperr]

I also think you may want to consider using something beefier than tapcons for hand railings. Wedge anchors or sleeve anchors are just as easy to install and are considerably stronger.

[Joel Gelman]

Old thread. I am installing DriCore over a concrete floor. I went to drill some holes. It is not something I would want to drill with anchors as I drill with the DriCore in place and want to to through it.

I first drilled a countersink in the OSB of the dricore subfloor when it is where I want it, then the hole with a new bit, then the TapCon. Broke. I tried it again with yet another bit. Broke!

The TapCon was 1/4 x 2 1/4 with star recess. I used a new 3/16 x 3 1/4 carbide tipped. bit from TapCon that is for use with 1/4 diameter anchors. I drilled 1/2 inch deeper. I cleaned out the hole. I used a Bosch impact drill.

I noticed with drilling the hole with the 3/16 bit, it was not easy even with a very heavy duty impala corded drill. I have a feeling that my concrete floor is too strong for the Tapcons as I think I am doing everything properly.

Any thoughts?

[Edward Weber]

I had trouble breaking the screws with just my drill. I don't see how the extra torque of the impact would help Wouldn't they snap more readily?

A drill driver is constant torque, with no release of pressure you can easily twist and snap a screw.
An impact driver hammers and releases, hammers and releases. "inching" the bit screw in a little at a time. More like tapping threads than driving a self-tapping screw.

[Jim Dwight]

Tapcons are way to much work and expense to put down subfloor. You need a percussive nailer. The ones you hit with a hammer are cheap and avoid the possible licensing issue of the ones with a trigger. With the right blanks you just hit the driver with a hammer and the nail goes through the subfloor and is buried into the concrete. Different power levels are different color in the driving cartridges.

If you are dead set on tapcons, I would drill deeper and spend more time getting debris out. Maybe even wiggle the drill bit a little to enlarge the hole slightly.

[Paul F Franklin]

Old concrete can be really tough. I keep a 7/32 carbide tipped drill bit just for tapcons in old concrete. Especially for something like dricore, the slight reduction in holding power isn't an issue.

[Bill Dufour]

Why not epoxy anchors? Old school is cast in place lead or sulphur.
Bill D

[Maurice Mcmurry]

An old thread, My dislike of tapcons is much older. I never use them. I want concrete fasteners to be hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel, to be reversible, to stay reversible and to work every time. I use plastic anchors and stainless screws for light weight applications, hot dipped wedge anchors, lead - zinc alloy shields with hot galvanized or stainless lag screws.

[Edward Weber]

An old thread, My dislike of tapcons is much older. I never use them. I want concrete fasteners to be hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel, to be reversible, to stay reversible and to work every time. I use plastic anchors and stainless screws for light weight applications, hot dipped wedge anchors, lead - zinc alloy shields with hot galvanized or stainless lag screws.

Ditto
I know it depends on the application, but being removable is a big plus in my book

[andrew whicker]

I got tired of hauling my air compressor to job sites for blowing out holes. I buy the compressed air cans now.

I also use my drill more and more to put them in (as opposed to my impact driver).

[andrew whicker]

I have a feeling it's the old concrete factor. I agree about trying a concrete nail gun (with gun powder). They make different loads. They are cheap enough that you can start w/ the middle load and see if you need more or less power, etc.

[Jack Frederick]

I guess I’m not smart enough to use Tapcons. I am diligent in process, but always expect them to break and they do not disappoint in that regard. I prefer the lead anchor driven type anchors. However, even those can drive you crazy as you can get a spinner when tightening the nut onto the anchor. I just welded up a frame for a failed gate post at my daughters place and sure enough after driving the lead anchor it spun. Prior to installation I cut a slot into the head of the thread so I can hold the anchor in place while tightening the screw. It works well and the anchor will take up. Given the problem of “a not right” concrete anchor it is worth the effort to cut the slot.

[Joel Gelman]

Well... I got it to work. I purchased an SDS bit in 3/16 and I found a non SDS in 7/32. The 7/32 did not work as no thread. The hole was too big. With the SDS 3/16 going in and out a bit more than 1/2 over with vacuum being used as I was going in and out, I got it to work with 1 exception. I also used wax but not sure that helped or not.

Thanks for the input.