Second blade for LV LAJ -- 38 or 50?

[Ken Cohen]

I'm lucky enough to be getting a Veritas LA Jack plane as a gift -- and as my first useful plane beyond my trusty Stanley block.

At the risk of wading into highly opinionated waters (I've looked at the prior posts), my gift includes a second blade. Thoughts on the 38 vs. 50?

Since I lack a decent larger plane, I'm guessing at usage, but I assume my needs are final milling (I have a planer and a jointer), fit and finish including joinery, shooting, and occasional smoothing. I generally work on larger pieces in hardwood -- and haven't bumped into tricky grain beyond African mahogany.

Glad to answer any other questions if that would help.

Thanks for the help.

Ken

[Chris Friesen]

I'd probably start with the 38. But you don't need to buy the 38 degree blade, just get another 25 and put a microbevel at whatever angle you want. The wood doesn't know it's a microbevel.

Note: if you're freehand sharpening then having the primary bevel at 38 makes sense.

[Michael Faurot]

If you don't work with any species of wood that has terribly difficult grain, then getting the 38° blade would be the way to go.

[Rusty Elam]

No, No, thats not right!
You need to get the BU smoother which comes with a 38* degree blade to enhance your BU Jack and then of course you will have to have the 50* blade.

[John Keeton]

I vote with Rusty!! The 38* is the best all round blade, but the 50* really shines with curly maple!! The 25* works fine in uncomplicated situations, and works great with the jack to shoot with. I have the jack and LAS, and just got the BUS. I haven't played with it yet, but it sure feels nice!! And, it comes with the 38*.

So, get the jack (comes with the 25* I think), get the 50* as the extra, then get the BUS that comes with the 38*. Best of all worlds!

[Randy Klein]

I'd probably start with the 38. But you don't need to buy the 38 degree blade, just get another 25 and put a microbevel at whatever angle you want. The wood doesn't know it's a microbevel.

Note: if you're freehand sharpening then having the primary bevel at 38 makes sense.

What he said.

[Ken Cohen]

Thanks to all the the quick and helpful feedback.

Since I can't count on a gift of a BU smoother, I guess I'm stuck choosing the 38 degree bevel as a second blade.

Several people have suggested just getting a second 25 and honing to a 38 micro bevel. For honing, I use waterstones and the Veritas MK II jig.

Pardon my inexperience, but what are the advantages of a 25 with 38 microbevel vs. a 38 with a tiny microbevel?

Thanks again to all.

Ken

[Derek Cohen]

Pardon my inexperience, but what are the advantages of a 25 with 38 microbevel vs. a 38 with a tiny microbevel?

Hi Ken

While a microbevel is far quicker to hone than a full bevel, the use of a microbevel on a low primary bevel facilitates cambering the blade (highly recommended) ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...aneBlades.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Danny Thompson]

Hi Ken,

We are all following Derek's lead on this subject, so take in the link he posted above.

Outside of the ease of cambering, another benefit is that a blade with a 25º primary angle can be modified to run the full range of angles (25 - 50 or more) by simply modifying the microbevel angle; a blade with a 38º primary bevel can never take a microbevel less than 38 (without regrinding the primary). Therefore, the 25º blade is simply more flexible.

[Martin Cash]

I vote with Rusty!! The 38* is the best all round blade, but the 50* really shines with curly maple!! The 25* works fine in uncomplicated situations, and works great with the jack to shoot with. I have the jack and LAS, and just got the BUS. I haven't played with it yet, but it sure feels nice!! And, it comes with the 38*.

So, get the jack (comes with the 25* I think), get the 50* as the extra, then get the BUS that comes with the 38*. Best of all worlds!

I would agree with John here.
I think that the LAJ has a bed of 12 degrees. Add the blade bevel to this and there is a cutting angle of 37 degrees with the 25 blade, and 62 degrees with the 50 blade. The 50 gives great results with cranky grain and the standard blade can handle just about everything else.
Cheers
MC