Main Panel Feedback

[Dustin Lorenz]

My only suggestion is to make sure it is copper and aluminum compatible. Copper is of course considered better but if it works for both the connections will stay cleaner with less chance of corrosion which causes resistance heat and finally fire and if you need to make a really long run (like how I ran four 30 amp outlets out to where my friends come and camp by our pond/rec area) you can save some money and use the aluminum wire and not worry about connections failing. I don't waste time with aluminum inside on short runs though.

[Rollie Meyers]

George, I would specify copper bus, with bolt on breakers.

Square D QO is one such type, and should be fairly common.

Regards, Rod.

QO circuit breakers are plug in type, if one wants bolt on breakers that requires a jump from inexpensive loadcenters to a considerably more expensive panelboards, a SQ D NQOB panel will accept QO & QOB breakers,but the last decent residential/light commercial loadcenter on the market is a Cutler-Hammer CH* "Classic", copper bus, a steel instead of plastic interior. SQ D went cheap years ago & has been skating on their past reputation.

*Cutler-Hammer BR loadcenters are a garbage line of panels like Murray, GE, & SQ D HomeLine.

[George Bregar]

Just got my quote for new service from the utility. They will put in 200A service...either aerial or buried, for the total cost of FREE! $10 minimum service per month.

Life is good.

[Rod Sheridan]

QO circuit breakers are plug in type, if one wants bolt on breakers that requires a jump from inexpensive loadcenters to a considerably more expensive panelboards, a SQ D NQOB panel will accept QO & QOB breakers,but the last decent residential/light commercial loadcenter on the market is a Cutler-Hammer CH* "Classic", copper bus, a steel instead of plastic interior. SQ D went cheap years ago & has been skating on their past reputation.

*Cutler-Hammer BR loadcenters are a garbage line of panels like Murray, GE, & SQ D HomeLine.

Thanks for the correction, complete and utter brain fade. I have a C-H BA breaker sitting on my desk so I write Sq D type QO........DUH............Thanks, Rod.

[Brad Townsend]

As for the Cutler-Hammer I have the CH for the main panel in my house and the BR for the sub in my shop building. Neither have given me any problems and breakers are readily available.

I would agree that any of the brands mentioned would give you good service.

[Bruce Wrenn]

As for having plastic interiors, that's no big deal. Only if you are constantly replacing breakers, or using breaker as an of / on switch would this be a concern. And if memory serves me correct, you have to have special breakers to use them as an off / on switch. By using a Seimans / Murry, you can use other brands of breakers in them. But they aren't UL approved for use in panels other than original manufacturer.

[Rollie Meyers]

As for having plastic interiors, that's no big deal. Only if you are constantly replacing breakers, or using breaker as an of / on switch would this be a concern. And if memory serves me correct, you have to have special breakers to use them as an off / on switch. By using a Seimans / Murry, you can use other brands of breakers in them. But they aren't UL approved for use in panels other than original manufacturer.

Plastic interiors are just a hallmark of a cheap quality panel.

Siemens breakers are not UL classified to be used in Murray panels nor are Murray breakers classified to be used in Siemens or the former named ITE brand even though the current design of both Murray & Siemens is based on the ITE design of the late 1970's which Siemens bought in the mid 1980's....

"SWD" "Switching Duty"rated breakers are required where they are used as a switch for florescent lighting, "HID" rated are required where used to switch HID "High Intensity Discharge" lighting, Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium, etc....

There are a number of competing manufacturers who produce UL "Classified" breakers that are allowed to be used in other manufacturers panels, the paperwork will list the specific catalog numbers of the panels they are allowed to be used in, Cutler-Hammer makes a CHQ & Siemens has a QD breaker UL classified for use in some SQ D QO loadcenters.

[Bill Brady]

As stated above most any homeline style breaker will fit any homeline panel, but as was said it is not listed and this is the catch for the inspectors. As for the Murray and Siemens, Murray is made by Siemens, they are both made in Mexico. I have used all types of panels with no problems but I do prefer the SqD QO or an equivilent instead of the homeline style, the fit of the panels is normally better and the buss connections will holdup under more vibration and dirt.

[George Bregar]

Thanks for all the responses. I purchased the Siemens. Copper bus, full size panel. Has lots of neutral/ground connections (140%) and lot's of room to bring wire in. Bonding screw already in place. And comes with six 20A single pole breakers. So just need to add the three double pole 20A for the cyclone, table saw, and joiner. All will cost less than $100.

Going up this weekend to place the boxes, run wire, and install the panel and meter pedestal so I can order power and start insulating and drywalling before the snow flies. So look for other 'lectrical questions to follow!

[George Bregar]

Well, got the meter pedestal and load center installed and wired. Ground rods are in. Wired in three receptacles so I can use some of my tools in build out, and temporary lighting until the drywall ceiling is up. Utility is going to run their underground today and energize tomorrow. Then it's full speed ahead until the snow flies.

[Mitchell Andrus]

I really am looking for specifics, like "copper bus", etc. that make it a good panel....or a bad choice.

I haven't seen solid copper bus bars in years. Assume if it's on the market, it's up to code. Other than that, pick one that has support in your area. If breakers for GE aren't around, use Square D. Even a lack of round knock-outs is easily solved. A punch costs about $15.00.
.

[Rob Russell]

Well, got the meter pedestal and load center installed and wired. Ground rods are in. Wired in three receptacles so I can use some of my tools in build out, and temporary lighting until the drywall ceiling is up. Utility is going to run their underground today and energize tomorrow. Then it's full speed ahead until the snow flies.

George, I'd check the bending radius requirement on your neutral connector. It's either 8 or 12 times the conductor radius and that bend is tighter than either of those.

Where is the conductoir from the ground rods tied in?

[David Hostetler]

I'm no expert, but I can say this...

Siemens isn't exactly the first brand name that comes up when talking boxes or breakers. Down the road, should a breaker require replacement, or addition, they may be substantially harder to find than a comparable GE or Square D.

[George Bregar]

I'm no expert, but I can say this...

Siemens isn't exactly the first brand name that comes up when talking boxes or breakers. Down the road, should a breaker require replacement, or addition, they may be substantially harder to find than a comparable GE or Square D.

Home Depot carries them. And Lowes. Add the fact that I can have on hand a replacement 20A SP and 20A DP for $13....

[Richard Jones]

I don't see that big ol' #6 bare copper in your panel.

"If breakers for GE aren't around, use Square D. " I don't believe they are interchangeable, are they?

Rich