#4 or #4 1/2

[Russ Massery]

A good #4 is the only plane I don't have in my arsenal. Any thoughts on which would be a better smoother. I have 2 #3's a smooth and corrugated bottom. Is the only difference between the two is the length ? The 4 1/2 being longer.

[scott spencer]

Russ - A 4-1/2 is wider...IIRC it's the same width as a 5-1/2, 6, & 7. I really like my 4-1/2....have 2 now.

L-R: 04-1/2. 04, 04, 4, 4 (MF #9), 3, 3, 3.

[Sean Hughto]

A 4 1/2 is wider, not longer. It's really just a matter of personal prefernce. The 4 1/2, of coures is heavier which some think is good for momentum and others think is bad to lift on the return stroke. It can be harder to push a wider blade (and heavier plane) as it is cutting more wood, but with smoother thin shavings this is rarely very noticeable. It's really 6 of one half dozen of the other with personal prefences ruling on the tie.

Oh, and if we're doing pictures:

[Bill Houghton]

A 4 1/2 is wider, not longer.

It was my understanding that, at least in the Stanley flavor, the 4-1/2 was an inch longer (10") than the 4 (9"). Not a significant difference, though.

[Sean Hughto]

Sorry, you are absolutely right, Bill, that technically, the 4 1/2 models (from Stanley, LN or others) tend to be slightly longer - like an inch or less. I guess my point was that the extra length is not the selling point of this plane for most woodworkers, but rather its noticeable added width and additional mass.

[Sean Hughto]

For what it may be worth to the OP, here is a pic that happens to have the LN 4 and 4 1/2 together (the two middle shelves). I think it shows farily well how the 4 1/2 is essentially just a beefier smoother all around. Sometimes that beef is good and sometimes something a little more agile is good. It depends what you're making and how you like to work.

[Jim Koepke]

Russ,
You do not mention if you would be buying new or used.

If used, the #4 will be cheaper in most cases. New, there isn't a whole lot of difference in the prices.

I like both.

For wide smoothing of course the #4-1/2 is nice. It is also nice on smaller items. My problem comes with having 3 #4s that are set up for different tasks. The #4-1/2 is set for light to medium shavings. For skew planing to lower the effective angle, the #4-1/2 has the #4 beat.

jim

[jerry nazard]

Oh, and if we're doing pictures:

Sean,

Oink!

-Jerry

[Jim Koepke]

OK, here is an Oink, Oink picture. This picture is over three years old. A few of these planes are no longer mine. Besides, more have been acquired in that time, at least more have come than have gone.

100_0362.jpg

My thoughts were to go take a new picture, but then it is hot and that would be a lot of work.

jim

[John Keeton]

Besides, more have been acquired in that time, at least more have come than have gone....
100_0362.jpg
jim

I made this statement in another thread, and from the above post, it should be stated again! "....like most addicts, I have learned early on to lay the blame elsewhere - so, again publicly, I blame Jim Koepke for this illness

Were it not for his constant, informative, and enticing posts - motivated by his quest to create a working tool from nothing, I would be a productive individual able to go about my business during the day without thought to the next "find." Honestly, I don't know how he lives with the guilt!! "

What more proof does one need!!

Russ, to the original question, why not get the first good one that comes available, and then look for the other. You know you want to own both

[Sean Hughto]

Jerry, Jerry, Jerry, whoa now. Think of all the planes I don't have:

- no 8
- no 6
- no 45 or 55
- no skew block
- no skew rabbet
- no dado plane
- no wall full of scores of molding planes of every profile
- no infills
- no Marcou's
etc.

In short, I am woefully plane difficient. <sobs>

[Russ Massery]

Wow thanks guys for all the input.

Jim, I'm looking at used right now. Any suggestion on type Stanleys to look for?

David, I'm mostly looking at old Stanley right now. Unless deal on a L.N. comes around.

John,Your no help in this matter. Just helping to spread the illness. You just know I'll end up with both.

Sean, You should seek professional help You have it real bad.

David, Martin, Philip, Thanks for your input as well.

Dominic That's great to see the performance of a LN can been matched with a little tuning.

Well the hunt is on............

[Sean Hughto]

Russ, I think it's just a matter of being at it for a while. At first, I had only the Stanley's which all cost less than $100, and most cost less than $30. Next you start getting specialty planes like groovers, rabbets, and such that you need. Then relatives start giving you LN gift certificates and such at holidays, and you try some LN's to fill in the gaps - stuff like the low angle jack, rabbet block, and miter plane. Over the years, it all adds up. I use them all.

By the way, I'm guessing that there are many folks here who have stables that would dwarf mine, and certainly there are those with much more fine sets - all bedrocks or LN or Marcou, for example.

[jerry nazard]

Jerry, Jerry, Jerry, whoa now. Think of all the planes I don't have:

- no 8
- no 6
- no 45 or 55
- no skew block
- no skew rabbet
- no dado plane
- no wall full of scores of molding planes of every profile
- no infills
- no Marcou's
etc.

In short, I am woefully plane difficient. <sobs>

Sean,

Funny you should mention a #8: I'm working on a type 11 No. 8C as we speak. I did not spot any Millers Falls in your blatantly obscene photograph. A MF #10 (4 1/2) is possibly my favorite plane - it is quite useful. I have a number of Millers Falls (3, 4, 4 1/2, 5, & 6) and have found them to be excellent users. I do not have any LV or LN's so why don't I swap with you for some Millers Falls..... <gr>.

-Jerry

[Mark Roderick]

Sean, I'm a really nice person, very pleasant and good-natured.

Can you please leave me your plane collection in your will? And by the way, I hear that unguided parasailing is a really cool sport.