Norm's Router Table - Which Router?

[Charles Wilson]

I have a Bosch 1617 that I can put into the table immediately. However, I am interested in what router people have in their tables.

Looking at the lifts from woodpeckers and the 1617 can not have bit changed above the table without bent wrenches. Anywhere to get these?

Thanks,
Chuck

[Randal Stevenson]

Don't buy a lift, only to change the lift and router later, IMHO. I believe Woodpeck also sells some bent wrenches.

As for Norm, I am pretty sure it is the big PC that is one of the standards for a table (3+hp). I went with the Milwaukee 5625, due to the deal I got. (one of the other main router table routers)

[Rick Boyett]

I believe Norm went with this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...d_i=B00005QEVQ

[Myk Rian]

Buy an extra wrench and bend it yourself.
I use a PC 890 in my table.

[Roger Jensen]

Sommerfeld's Tools sells the bent wrenches on their web site for $15. Not sure how this compares to other sites, as I haven't seen them anywhere else.

Roger

[Paul Greathouse]

Charles

I built a Norm table about 5-6 years ago. I have a Porter Cable 7518 mounted in a Benchdog lift. They make a great combination and the BD lift is very smooth.

As Randall states the 3hp Milwaukee doesn't require a lift and would be a good alternative to the PC. If the Milwaukee had been available when I purchased I would have went with it instead of the PC from a cost perspective.

If you haven't built your table yet, let me give you a tip that would be a great improvement on the fence design. Use T-track and cam clamps for your fence track instead of the method used in Norm's plans. I hate making adjustments to the fence due to the design and plan to upgrade to T-track and cam clamps. They can be purchased from most of the woodworking suppliers but I like the ones from Hartville Tool.

I am presently building a triple router table of my own design which will have a pair of Freud 1700's for matched set bits such as rail & stile or tongue and groove. The third router will be the 3hp Milwaukee for heavy work. The Freuds also have above table adjustment.

In your case, if your going to have just one dedicated table router, I would choose the 3hp Milwaukee and keep the Bosch for hand work, thats what it excels at.

[Bill Houghton]

Porter-Cable 690, because it's what I have.

[Charles Wilson]

BTW - I have a festool OF 1400 for hand use. Therefore, I thought since I have the 1617 I could use that.

As for the T-Track recommendation instead of the norm technique, do you have a pic?

Chuck

[Bharat Badrinath]

The above table adjustment wrench for the PC890 comes with a bent wrench. i just did a google search and found this article that talks about where to get bent wrenches : http://toolmonger.com/2008/03/21/ben...r-bits-easier/ In addition acetool sells bent wrenches for bosch too.

[Charles Wilson]

The above table adjustment wrench for the PC890 comes with a bent wrench. i just did a google search and found this article that talks about where to get bent wrenches : http://toolmonger.com/2008/03/21/ben...r-bits-easier/ In addition acetool sells bent wrenches for bosch too.

Thanks Bharat!

Also, would you recommend getting the Hardware Kit (#63010) if I intend on possibly using the alternative T-track method mentioned above?

Also, as to the comment about the lifts made earlier, I spoke with a customer service person at Woodpeckers and they assured me that there is a collar/pad available for the lifts that I am looking for should I decide to upgrade routers in the future.

Chuck

[John Smithy]

I finished my norm's router table a little while ago, and after doing a ton of research I finally settled on getting the Milwaukee 5625. After lookign at the cost of plates, I didn't cut out a hole for a mounting plate in the table top, instead just bolted the Milwaukee to the bottom of the table, and cut a 2" hole through the table for the bits. After drilling another hole for the T-wrech, the height can be adjusted from under the table. Switching bits is really quite easy, you just pop the clasp, drop the motor, and do it on the table.

It's certainly not as easy as a fancy Benchdog or woodpecker lift, but it was a lot cheaper, and I can always upgrade in the future.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a PC 890 in my table, though I find that changing bits even with the crooked wrench is hard. I have a Rousseau insert plate, and the rings are difficult to remove, so I just remove the motor from the base and do it that way.

I highly recommend t-tracks, though I had to use two star wheels on each side to lock it down. I tried it with just a single lock, and it kept moving when you made even moderate pressure against it. One other thing that I did was put several strips of UMHW tape on the underside of the fence base piece. This allows it to move very smoothly, and is probably why I needed the two locking screws, but it is worth it.

Doc

[Gary Lange]

I built Norms Table and went with the Milwaukee 3-1/2 hp 5625 router.

[Geoff Potter]

I built Norm's table in 1997 and put a Freud FE2000 3 1/4 HP router in it. Great combo!!

[Rich Neighbarger]

Word of caution on the Woodpecker quick lift. It develops slop after a while due to a design flaw in that the router is only supported on one side. This causes wracking and, over time, quite a noticable slop and no way to adjust it out.

That being said, I love my Woodpecker Presicion Router Lift. It is mechanically sound in that it is supported on both sides of the router. I opted for the fast pitch, which still provides .001 accuracy and faster bit changes, and the PC7518... This is by far the best money I've spent in the shop.

I only wish I waited for the new Woodpecker's new lift which combines the PRL and the quick lift features all in one mechanically sound product.