Entertainment Center Build

[John Loftis]

Right, it's a 35MM bit for the door side (1 3/8"). I was actually talking about the plate side inside the cabinet. I need the plate to be recessed into the end panel a bit so that I can get a full overlay . It would probably be a 2" or so forstner for that; won't know until I play with it.

The downside is the footprint of the plate is actually sort of a square cross (like the Red Cross). So a square cross fitting inside a circle... there would definitely be some gappage. Wouldn't be visible with the cabinet open, since the door stiles would cover it. Ahh, compromises...

I don't think I could use my router even if I wanted to. I suspect the base plate is too big and the floor and ceiling of the unit would get in the way.

[John Loftis]

I've been playing hookie from woodworking for a while, in part because I'm busy with the two little 'uns and in part because I was reaching a part of the project I was dreading.

After receiving a lot of advice, I got the doors hung. They aren't perfect, but they work. It took a day's worth of mock-ups before I got it right. I ultimately increased the bore distance beyond what Blum said I could do. It works fine. One thing I know for sure, I really, really, really hate fussing with hinges.

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Next step was to re-make the center door. I had to dig deep into the scrap pile of nogal for that. I needed wider stiles so the Blum hinges would work. While I was add it, I made the rails wider so that they matched the rails of the left and right cabinet doors. It was encouraging to see how much faster and better that door came out. The joints were tight; everything lined up flush; it only needed finish sanding. Felt good to see improvement in craftsmanship over the course of this project.

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I ended up using birdseye maple for the center panel. It might end up looking jarring, or it might look interesting, or it might look good. We'll see when it's all done. For the finish on the birdseye, I tried a new (to me) technique. I was looking for a way to make the birdseye pop. Ended up mixing a 1 lb cut of shellac, added a few drops of Transtint vintage maple, and wiped it on. Lightly sanded with 220 after it dried, then applied General Finishes arm-r-seal. I'm happy with the tint, but not at all happy with the overall result. Maybe I had unrealistic expectations. I'll post pics of that later since the panel is covered in painter's tape right now.

I also learned how to use the plunge router (another cause of procrastination). Bought a 1/4" upcut spiral bit at the woodworking show in Mesquite, TX over the weekend. Cut the grooves in the table top, cut the inlay out of Steve's donated fiddleback maple. I was nervous about many things at this step. Screwing up the table top, not getting the inlay to fit snugly, cutting the inlay on the table saw. It all came together remarkably smoothly. Clamped it up, then sanded it all down flush. I pulled out the dread belt sander, but had the self restraint to stop before I did irreparable damage. I swear that thing is my nemesis.

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Tonight I did finish sanding, then did the slurry Watco thing. I'll let it dry tonight, then sand the remaining paste out. Even with one coat of Watco, the inlay really seems to pop.

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Getting closer!

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[John Keeton]

John, I see a finished entertainment center "just around the corner!!" It is really looking great. The curly maple inlay really sets off the top, and it a nice addition. You did a good job on the install, as well. Also, nice vertical grain match on the front, left stile/foot bracket. Can't see the other side very well, but it looks like you have paid close attention to that little detail. It can really make a difference in quality.

Sometimes taking a break can rejuvenate one. Looks like it worked for you.

This is going to be a great end result. You have taken your time, and have put forth the effort to do it right.

[John Loftis]

Thanks, John!

Any thoughts on drawer/door pulls? I want to avoid 'shiny' stuff. My default is probably round pulls, some sort of dull steel. But I'm not married to that.

I guess brass and bronze are the other options. What do you think would look best with the style of the piece?

John

[John Keeton]

John, I would think you would want to match the metal of the hinges, but one might also consider maple to pick up on the inlays and center panel. However, they certainly will jump off the nougal. That may not be a bad thing, and it might be worth placing a pull on there to see what they look like. I agree on simple, though. This piece will not tolerate a lot going on with the pulls/knobs.

[John Loftis]

A little progress, which could be entitled "fun with Arm-r-Seal."

As I mentioned previously, my stain was applied by wet sanding the Watco in. I ultimately did this once with 320 grit and then again with 600 grit.

I realized yesterday the Arm-R-Seal can says not to sand to greater than 220. I called General Finishes (great folks, very helpful) and the guy said he thought it would probably be ok, but it would likely take a long time to dry.

Boy howdy. The can says 6-8 hour dry time, more depending on conditions. The last couple of days it's been high 50's at night, 70's during the day. First coat has been on the carcass of the unit for 26 hours and it's still tacky. My guess is it will be about 36 hours before it's ready.
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The table top was tacky as well, but it's considerably more movable. So I put it on a table in the back yard for an hour in the sun and that dried it out nicely. I'm not sure whether that was a no-no or not, but it seemed to work. Scuff sanded the top with 320, applied a second coat a few minutes ago.
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I wiped on the Arm-r-seal with an old t-shirt (per the can's instructions). I'm trying to be careful with it, but I don't have a lot of points of comparison to know if it is looking like it is supposed to look at this point. Still seems a little streaky/splotchy to me.

For the birdseye panel, the figure is very muted (bummer). I also applied the Arm-r-seal on the panel with a foam brush, and it ended up being way too thick of a coat. Caused some streaking that I'm going to try to sand out later.
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Still waffling on the hardware.

[John Keeton]

John, actually the top is about what I would expect with the first coats. I know you want more consistency in the sheen, but at this point I think this is expected. You will get more build with successive coats. Tough to get really good cure with cool nights.

And, the BE maple looks great, IMO. I think additional coats will help there some, too.

Really pleased with the depth and richness of the nougal. I think this project is coming together!!

[John Loftis]

Sorry I never posted the completed pictures. I'm pretty happy with everything except the center door panel. I think it looks distracting. Lesson learned here might be, "less is more." I might cut the panel out and try again at some point.

Thanks again for all your help along the way, folks.

John

[John Keeton]

John, I think it looks great! Glad you are pleased with it, as I know you put a lot of effort in this project.

A possible suggestion on the center panel - you spoke at one time of doing an inlay. What about doing a simple, and thin, relief carving from the nougal scraps. Finish it out, stick it on temporarily with something, and live with it a week or two to see if it feels right for you. The only loss would be the experience of making the applique - and that can't be all bad!

[Heath Markovetz]

Very nice work, John.

I agree that the center panel could be a little distracting looking at it dead on, but anytime I see a picture off at an angle, there's enough of the maple ply showing that it ties in nicely for me.

I also really like your layout of components on the sides with a center channel in the center. I may incorporate something similar if I ever get to replacing our current entertainment center/stand.

Two thumbs up from me for sure!

[John Loftis]

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

John, I guess I'm a little stumped on what type of aplique or inlay to put on/in the maple panel. There's a subtle arch above the center channel and at the base of the unit, but the rest of the piece is a study in rectangles. Not sure if either of those aspects would be something to play off of. My design juices petered out about 3 months ago. If anyone has creative ideas, please chime in!

Alternatively, I have a solid panel of nogal that I could replace the birdseye with. Maybe could do fiddleback inlay into that, imitating the top of the unit.

Whatever I do will have to wait 'til after Christmas. I've filled up the dust collector 4 times in as many days making Christmas presents. Many miles to go before I sleep...

John

[Peter Aeschliman]

I love the top. Just beautiful. I also really like the functional design with the center channel located where it should be.

I do think I agree with you on the contrasting panel, but I feel bad providing any criticism since your skill level exceeds mine.

If I can offer one more bit of layman feedback... I generally like the contrast of walnut and maple. But I think having the shelving a lighter color is also a little distracting. My eyes are immediately attracted to the shelving first since the lighter color stands out. I think the contrast would've worked really well if the shelving were dark and the case, doors, and drawers were maple.

But in this case, the first thing I notice is the shelving. THEN my eyes are attracted to the fine work you've done on the rest of the piece.

Anyway, despite those things, I'd love to have that entertainment center in my home! Good work.

[John Loftis]

Peter, I agree with you completely. As soon as I installed the shelving and stepped back and looked at it, I had exactly the same reaction. If I hadn't used brad nails (and glue) for the shelf edging, I would have ripped the maple off and re-trimmed in nogal.

Thanks for your feedback.

John

[Ben Hatcher]

How about a nice big script JL for the inlay? They're relatively symetrical, long and skinny.

[Heath Markovetz]

How about a nice big script JL for the inlay? They're relatively symetrical, long and skinny.

LOL... the first thing I thought of when I read this post was, "I didn't realize he had JL Audio equipment in the pictures..."

Then I realized they were your initials, John.