How many of you use a mortise gauge?

[Pam Niedermayer]

Hi Thomas

Like Pam, I also use a double bladed Kinshiro mortise gauge. With the method I use, there is no substitute. Let me show you why ...

First of all, there is a technique to setting up a mortice gauge which, once used, will convince you that they are the way to go.
...

Using a mortice gauge allows you to set up and retain the same setting for both the mortice and the tenon.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That's kind of what I meant about not measuring; but we differ in how we make the first gauge setting. I measure the chisel first.

Pam

[Brian Ward]

Like Pam, I also use a double bladed Kinshiro mortise gauge. With the method I use, there is no substitute.

Ooooh, that's a very nice design. The cost is a little high, though. I wonder how hard it would be to make something like that.

I do something similar to this with the cheap 2-arm mortise gauge that you can get from Lee Valley. I chop a test mortise first (in whatever wood), stick the blades in the hole, then tighten up with the blades on the mortise walls. The Kinshiro would be really nice for that.

[Raney Nelson]

Ooooh, that's a very nice design. The cost is a little high, though. I wonder how hard it would be to make something like that.

The difficult part about making it is the blades - which are smithed specifically for this application. I'm sure a good blacksmith could make them, but I don't know of any way to source a pair. A resourceful woodworker might be able to heat and bend some O1 stock for the purpose, but it's not the simplest design to replicate.

The woodworking portions are done to a very precise level of course, but there's really nothing particularly difficult in there. This actually seems like a pretty interesting project to take a stab at...

[Brian Kent]

What about these? I assume something about them is not as good as a $200+ model, but much more affordable:

$35
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...&dept_id=12996

$33
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...&dept_id=12996

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Brian

They look pretty good to me. I looked at these myself some time back, then was given my gauge as a gift (!).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Pam Niedermayer]

As it happens, I bought a set of Kinshiro's blades for the smaller gauge to make my own because Kinshiro had already announced he was quitting and gauges were few and far between in the US; but before I could get it made, Tomohito Iida came up with a large Kinshiro gauge. I still expect to make the small gauge for small work.

Pam

[Thomas Kila]

Thanks to all that have responded. As usual, the collective wisdom and experience here is what makes the 'Creek such a great place to visit. I especially appreciate the tips on how you each use your gauges to mark mortises. Mahalo!

[Raney Nelson]

Brian,

I believe those are Kokaji made - which is the brand that was recommended to me for a lower cost alternative by So Yamashita (japan-tool.com) down under. His assessments have always been dead-on for me in the past.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Raney

If So says they are good, then they are good. Incidentally, he lives not in Japan but in Sydney (actually the northern beaches, close to Narrabeen, an old windsurfing haunt of mine a few decades ago, before we moved to Perth).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Raney Nelson]

Hi Raney

If So says they are good, then they are good. Incidentally, he lives not in Japan but in Sydney (actually the northern beaches, close to Narrabeen, an old windsurfing haunt of mine a few decades ago, before we moved to Perth).

Regards from Perth

Derek

oops - I knew that.

Those northern beaches must be the reason I always find it so hard to reach him when the surfing's good.

[Adam Cherubini]

Like Bob, I use my mortise gauge for marking out my tenons. When the mortise and tenon board are flush (not always), sure, I'll go ahead and mark the tenon.

I think the best gauge is a fixed pin gauge. Just a stick with two carefully filed nails fitted with a moveable fence. A serviceable gauge can be made without a moveable fence as well.

The pins should have a flat side, which is what I think Derek was showing.

Adam

[philip marcou]

I'm looking at neandering future mortises and tenons and was wondering if a mortise gauge is that much better than a simple marking gauge. (I already have a marking gauge, and have been looking at mortise gauges.) For those who do use mortise gauges, which type do you use? Marking (pin-type) or cutting (knives)? And lastly, where did you get your mortise gauge from?
Thanks!

A mortice gauge is a whole lot more convenient than a marking gauge when marking out mortices. This because the width you have set remains constant from one mark out to the next, whereas if you used a single blade /pin marking gauge this width could vary according to any variation in timber thickness, assuming that you mark from each side as normal-but at least the mortice will be on centre. This may not be the case with a double pin-unless you check by marking from both sides- but at least the width stays the same
Traditional mortice gauges have pins, but these should be filed so that there is a mini knife profile, in which case they work nicely just like ones with knives or wheels.
My mortice gauge came from London, is stamped "J. Buck-maker- London 1870" and is made of African Blackwood. I replaced the pins with sewing machine needles which are mighty hard and strong. My marking gauge is self made.

[harry strasil]

A piece of Oak, 2 5/8" dowels, 2 3/8" dowels, 2 pieces of old hand saw blade, 2 small brass screws, a 5/8" bit and a 3/8" bit, and 45 minutes and a quick marking gauge is born. Not pretty, but functional.