Let's talk about chainsaw chain sharpening

[Mike Stephens]

Let me start off by saying I have fallen in love with turning green wood. So much that I am having to spend my time leaning about things like chainsaw chains and how to sharpen them. Something I never really wanted to waste my time with, but now am almost forced into it.

My question for all you chainsaw wheeling creekers out there is, do you sharpen your own chains? I have been looking at an oregon electric chain sharpener and feel this may be the way to go. I like my tools sharp and I want them sharp all the time. Now I have 3 chains and always have at least 1 in for sharpening. I am finding this is costing me a lot of $ at $6.00 a pop.

Any feed back comments opinions would be very appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

[Rick Prosser]

I manually sharpen my chainsaw chains. It was quick to learn, it only takes a few minutes, and I can do it when needed. After 3 or 4 (or 5-6) sharpenings, I usually have it done at the shop to get them back in shape.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I have a couple of the Oregon files and sharpen as needed. Like Rick mentioned - I like being able to sharpen while in the field but have to admit - the Oregon electric sharpener would be nice!

[Chris Stolicky]

I actually have an attachment for my dremel that works pretty good. Once you understand the angle to hold the file, it really isn't that difficult to do. I realized when I was learning to sharpen that for as long as a chain is, there is really only an actual tooth every couple of inched or so.

If I remember correctly, I think there was only like 12-13 teeth on my 16" saw.

[Greg Haugen]

Mike,

I have a Dremel attachment for sharpening my chainsaws. Here is a link to it on Amazon but I bought mine locally at either Menards or Home Depot.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1453-Ch.../dp/B0000302YO

It will take me a minute, maybe a minute and a half, to sharpen a chain. There are some "diamond" stones for it, I current use the standard "stones" that Dremel sells,they're very cheap and come in packs of 2-if I recall right. Each stone will sharpen quite a chains before it needs to be replaced.

The best of both worlds, this system on one of the standard size cordless dremels. Take it anywhere you want to go.

[Richard Bell CA]

I also use the Dremel attachment, except I use these diamond burrs.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43086

The advantage of diamond burrs is that they don't change diameter with wear like a regular stone. They do wear out when the diamond eventually debonds. I have two different saws that use a different tooth geometry. I use two of the dremel attachments, each adjusted for a specific saw, and swap them out on the same Dremel. I also bought a cheap 300W inverter form Amazon, so I can take the Dremel with me and plug it into the cigarette lighter for touch ups in the field.

Richard

[Steve Mawson]

I use a file. I always noticed that the shops that sharpen chain also sell chain so they make sure they file them pretty good which I suppose is good business.

[Scott Hackler]

I bought an electric sharpener at Harbor Freight ($40) on a hope that I didnt waste my money and let me tell you that it is great. Once you fine tune for each angle, repeating the rest of the links on the same angle is super easy and exact. I never used one before and after playing with it, I sharpened my first chain in less than 15 minutes. I think a hand file is fiine if your good at it, but the electric one puts a factory perfect grind on it, in a short time. And at $4-6 per sharpening, I will pay for this little tool in a couple seasons.

[tom benzinger]

Practice makes perfect. I use an angle gauge and sharpen by hand with very good results. Just make sure that you dont just sharpen the cutting surface, but file down the rakers using a depth gauge every 2-3 sharpenings to keep the chain cutting at its full potential.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Get a Husqvarna roller guide kit (in the right size for your saw chain). They cost about $10 and make hand filing super easy. You can use it anywhere, don't need electricity, doesn't take too much off the chain (which can cause the cut to pull to one side, not to mention use up your chain quicker), and is quicker than getting out the electric/dremel set up.

Also remember to file your rakers (and the roller guide has a guage plate for that too). I have several chains and when one needs freshening to get the teeth the same length I can take several to the shop and have them ground professionally. Unless you have a professional grinder you probably won't be able to control the cutter length any more accurately than by hand, so you'll have to take them to a pro at some point anyway.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike I have a attachment for my dremel tool that works slick but if I am out away from the shop I use a Granberg sharpener that I got from Bailey's. It works well out in the field.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...200&catID=9958

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I sharpen me chains by hand, with a file. It's faster than changing the blade in the field. Once you get the hang of it. I have not tried power sharpening but maybe I should. I got teh file holder/guide from the local BORG. The holder makes a lot of difference. Better than just a file handle, for some reason. Has those cool angle marks too. Oh, there's usually a "good" name brand sharpening kit and the generic kit. The file makes a huge difference, not so much the holder..... The no name file wears down pretty fast. The Oregon file is much better. Oh, I didn't mean to mention a brand name.

[Mike Stephens]

Thanks for all the replies. You'Ve all given me a lot to think about. I am still interested in the electric sharpener but may also do some research on a good file.

[Mike Stephens]

This is the unit I am looking at buying, except the 1 I may possibly buy is slightly used for $75.00.
http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-108181-.../dp/B001HK1ZXI

[Reed Gray]

After 10 years of sharpening my own chains with the rat tailed file, it really isn't too difficult. Well, at least the guys who really know how to do it no longer laugh outright at my efforts. There is an angle guide on the tooth, just try to match it. Usually it only takes a few swipes with gentle pressure. I sharpen all the teeth on one side, then hit the other side. I do count the strokes to try to get the wear even. If you hit a nail or rock, you have to take a few extra passes. Use only a push stroke towards the outside of the tooth. Try to push in as straight of a line as possible to keep from rolling the tooth. Do wear gloves on your file hand at least. I have donated a fair amount of blood by slipping from pushing too hard, and grazing my knuckles across the freshly sharpened teeth. Your local saw shop will probably help you. After several sharpenings, you will have to lower the depth tooth inbetween the cutters, and of course, there is a handy guide and flat file for this. If you take it too far down, your saw will bog down. Every time you change the chain, flip the bar over, and de burr it. If it is too high, your saw will barely cut. Find some one to show you how. The saw companies also have videos on how to do all of this.

robo hippy