Linseed Vs. tung oil on strat neck

[Kevin McMichael]

A few years ago I put together a Stratocster or rather a partscaster. The neck was new and a nice piece of birdseye maple. I do not like lacquer necks on maple boards so I just put tung oil on it. Tung oil does not yellow much and it has been a few years and thought that I might put linseed oil on it now to bring out the birdseye more. I have heard that the linseed will remain sticky and not dry and feel like the bare wood of the tung oil finish.

Is this true?

The feel of the finish is very important on the neck of the guitar especially the fingerboard. I have been playing for 35 years and never liked the anything other than a bare wood fingerboard. I never really liked maple at all untill I had an unfinished one.

[Scott Holmes]

Your question needs to provide a bit more info...

When you say "Tung Oil" what was used? Brand? etc.

Many of the "Tung Oil" are tung oil in name only.

BLO will dry as well or better than pure tung oil.

Trying to build up a film finish with either, will end up sticky.

[Jamie Delker]

I have an old bottle of Stewmac fretboard finishing oil that I use, but just on my guitars with ebony or rosewood fretboards. My only maple neck/fretboard is a telecaster with a satin finished neck, I just wipe it down with a dry cloth when I'm done and it's held up well.

I just checked the Stewmac site and it indeed says that linseed oil can get sticky when warm, and they sell a tung oil for unfinished necks, so it's safe to assume that'll be fine to use.

[Kevin McMichael]

I did use pure tung oil and would not have considered a varnish blend.

[Jim Becker]

Kevin, there is a difference between raw linseed oil and "boiled linseed oil"...the former doesn't really dry and is more for artists who paint with oils, etc. The latter is often used instead of pure tung oil because it cures much faster. There is little difference in appearance. Neither is a good "durable" finish, however, although both can easily be renewed by re-applying them.

For your application, you have to consider the effects of oil from the musician's hands, too. That's one of the reasons that a film finish often is applied to the backs of the necks and even the fretboard when they are maple like you have used. If you're satisfied around that, either pure tung oil (and allowed to fully cure which takes about a month or more) or BLO (takes about a week to two weeks to fully cure) could be used. The tung "may" be slightly more durable, but it will still show wear in this application.

[Scott Holmes]

The tung oil will need to be renewed much more often than the BLO.

Pure tung oil does finish curing, albeit in about 4-6 weeks.

[Kevin McMichael]

For your application, you have to consider the effects of oil from the musician's hands, too. That's one of the reasons that a film finish often is applied to the backs of the necks and even the fretboard when they are maple like you have used. If you're satisfied around that, either pure tung oil (and allowed to fully cure which takes about a month or more) or BLO (takes about a week to two weeks to fully cure) could be used. The tung "may" be slightly more durable, but it will still show wear in this application.

Thanks Jim very informative reply.

The guitar is mine and the feel is by far the most important thing to me and I am very happy with it. Apperance is way down the line. I do not mind the looks of the wear. I am not a professional and have many other guitars so I doubt that I will ever wear it out or even have to replace the frets. I like the look of the worn neck if it was honestly worn.

I am considering some sort of amber dye especially if I build myself a spare with birdseye. I am also considering doing a french polish on the body for the hell of it.

[Bruce Wheeler]

Hi,
This is my first post so if I say something wrong just tell me. I finish gunstocks with a product called Tru-oil made by Birchwood Casey which sould be available in the USA. It is a polymerized tung oil which dries overnight. It makes a real difference to put on thin coats as opposed to thick one slathered on with a brush. Three drops of Tru-Oil on a slint free shop towel is enough to cover a gunstock . The more coats the greater the depth of the finish. I usually use about 20 coats sanding with 800 wet paper every 5 coats. After a week the finish is rock hard and you can finish the finish with automotive paint leveller that the custom car folks use Finesse -It II from NAPA
Regards,
Bruce................

[Scott Holmes]

If you are looking at amber dye and then talking about french polish...

Why not use shellac for the entire project?

[Kevin McMichael]

The shellack will ONLY be used on the body of the guitar. I would not like the feel of shellack on the fretboard. I have already put a coat of pure tung oil on the current neck and played it for a couple of years.

I would NOT like the feel of anything like varnish on the fretboard.

If the pure tung oil or pure BLO was not suitable I would have gone with a Rosewood board which does not need a finish. I would never use an oil varnish blend (such as tru oil)on a maple fingerboard as it might feel more like lacquer which I dispise on a fretboard. I realize that many people like them but I will never use one again.

Mentioning the french polish was just a comment and I would only use it on the body. I apologize for clouding the issue with wax shellac(pun intended)

[Alan Zenreich]

I'm using Tru-Oil as the finish on my first instrument, an octave mandolin.

It's walnut back, sides, neck... and a redwood top with spalted maple binding, purfling and rosette.

I've got the walnut filled and sealed (using Tru-oil sealer), and after finish sanding I'll be applying the Tru-Oil finish... not sure yet how many very thin coats.

It's called Tru-oil, but it's actually an oil based varnish... and is well regarded in lutherie. You can use fine steel wool to give the neck a smooth matte or semi-matte finish.

I'll be using Aisyn Fingerboard Oil on the ebony fretboard.

[Kevin McMichael]

It's called Tru-oil, but it's actually an oil based varnish... and is well regarded in lutherie.

Congratulations on your mandolin. putting together a stratocaster from parts is nothing like real luthrie. The only thing that I have a luthier do is install the nut. I am not a luthier but have been playing for 35 years and would not use tru-oil on a maple fretboard. If I were making a mandolin I would definatly explore the french polish technique on the body of the mandolin as this would be very time consuming but would allow more vibration than the true oil finish

[Alan Zenreich]

I agree that Tru-Oil is not good for the fingerboard, but I thought you were talking about the neck.

By the way, french polish was a very close second choice for a finish for this mandolin. I like them both for different reasons. As for Tru-Oil affecting the sound quality... it's a non-issue according to the luthiers who use it. Many high quality mandolins and violins use varnish finishes... it's one of the reasons I chose this approach.

[Jim Becker]

If you're considering the dye for that neck, it may be problematic without a film finish to seal it...both alcohol soluble and water soluble dyes will likely come off on your fingers at some point since the oil will not seal them and protect them from finger oils and other substances. I'd leave that neck "necked" relative to color if you choose the oil finish.

Oh, and I do understand that this is for your own comfort. Since you're less concerned about long term appearance, I see no reason not to use the oil as stated for that silky feeling it will imbue on the guitar neck. It's easily renewable, too, and that's just fine for a private instrument IMHO.

[Kevin McMichael]

thanks Jim I guess that I lucked out by getting exactly the feel that I wanted the first time

Alan I am sure that your mandolin will be a cannon..........if you are not afraid to trim the bracing!

I knew a luthier that that french polished a 3/4 bass once. He said that it was a cannon but he would just as soon do a house next time. He could by all other accounts trim the bracing on a mandolin to make them sound awesome but would not do anyone else's becuase he said they might implode at any time!

I appreciate the replies.