Hi guys and thanks for the welcome.
I realize that many north american cabinet makers still shun frameless cab construction but I found the system well thought out and fairly simple to follow once you get the hang of it.
Early on I decided to do everything in metric, rather than trying to convert imperial to metric. This proved to be a little frustrating since most of the components available in north america, drawer slides for example, are based on imperial measurements (i.e. 12" uppers and 24" lowers, etc). One of the nice things about euro-32, is if you keep everything in multiples of 32 all the parts come together very well.
The GSCS (see I'm learning the lingo!
was, imo, the perfect set of tools for this sort of project. I was amazed how quickly I was able to get 90 degree cuts and repeatable lengths. For hinges, I used the Salice deluxe snap ons (I got my from Cabinetmart in Ontario). Easy to install, but more importantly they allow you to true up the door in three dimensions without having to remove it.
The drawers were fairly easy to put together, although I found I really had to get the measurements spot on for the width and height. My first attempt was a little wide and the door wouldn't slide. Planning the drawer height was the real challenge. Danny gives some good recommendations in the book, but if you want drawers of different depth you have to get a bit creative. FWIW - I also found it alot easier to attach the sliders before assembling the cabinets.
BTW - I didn't follow Danny's suggestion of placing a rail (16mmx100mm) between the drawers. I understood his reasoning, but I couldn't find any easy way to attach them without drilling more holes through the cabinet sides. I'm still trying to figure that one out. In the meantime, they work fine and I see no real reason to have them other than perhaps the look of the thing.
For design, I put together a small excel spreadsheet. You input the overall dimensions of the cabinets and it gives you the required dimensions for the various panels. Its crude, but it saved me a great deal of time.
Finally, and a bit off topic, I am really enjoying working with melamine. It may not be "real" wood, but it has, imo, quite a number of benefits over the more traditional materials. Plus, the Festool special laminate floor blade does a very good job preventing chip out, so I get nice clean cuts almost all the time.
My only realy problem has been trimming the edgebanding. I have tried a number of different trimmers with mixed results. The problem is that the trimmer seems to chip the laminate on the particle board as it trims the banding. The best tool I have found so far is a standard utility blade, but I wish I could get something better. Still searching on that one.