Disassemblable workbench

[Igor Petrenko]

I have so far couple of workbenches made out of 2x4 and plywood/osb but now I am getting ready to build something heavier. The problem is that my workshop is in the basement and I live alone so everything I have in there I am trying to make manageble by one person.
As I understand if I make one maple top of about 8ft by 2ft in 2-3 inches width its going to be about 200lbs? I probably should try to make it from two pieces but have no clue how to connect them. I was thinking about putting them on the base with some thick dowels, 2 per half of that top, but then it's probably going to need spacing inbetween not to crack base with wood movement.
Is there any standard way doing stuff like this? Thank you.

[Robert Reece]

How about 8' x 1' pieces and keep them together with threaded rod. You could even do smaller than 1' if you wanted to keep the weight of each piece down even lower.

Won't you have help moving out of your house, in which case 200lbs wouldn't be so bad?

The other option is to forget the big heavy workbench and take the idea from Fine Woodworking a few months back. The guy built some sawhorses of sorts and just spanned them with long and narrow torsion boxes. He did everything on them with just some clamps. It was a tempting solution, I still might do it.

[alex grams]

My workbench I made was designed to be able to take apart. The stretchers can be detached and the legs from the top. The top probably weighs in around 100-140lbs. 27x72, top is 2.5" thick, 5" skirts. Hard maple, ash stretchers.

[Prashun Patel]

if you just want a heavy top, then consider laminating sheets of MDF together. You can then top it with a replaceable sheet of 1/4" hardboard and edgeband the whole thing with your choice of hardwood edging.

Plenty manageable, and easy to glue up right on top of the base.

I did this, and am extremely happy. My dog holes even hold up very well.

[John Schreiber]

You won't have any trouble making the base parts in small enough chunks to move and manipulate on your own.

The top is another story. I run the math on a top 96" by 24" by 3" and get 180 lbs. That's heavy, but with care and planning, it's not impossible. My top is southern yellow pine 90" by 30" by 3 3/4". That comes to about 250 lbs and I am able to move it by myself a little at a time. I don't think I could get it up a set of stairs by my self though.

You could make the top 1" thick with aprons 3" thick and 3" deep. That would keep the weight down to ~~ 85 lbs. I'd call that possible to get up a set of stairs by your self. If properly supported, a top that thin shouldn't be a problem.

Another approach would be to make the top in 6" wide sections and use all thread rods running in holes across the width with inset nuts on each side. That's probably the best approach. It keeps each section down to under 50 lbs. You could use unglued dowels or biscuits for to maintain alignment.

[Chris Friesen]

I suggest two 8'x1' slabs, each individually lag-bolted down to a trestle base. Leave the front clearance hole round to lock the top flush with the front of the bench, then elongate the other holes a bit to allow for wood movement.

You might even consider leaving a 1/2" gap between the slabs to let you insert planing stops or store chisels/saws/squares not actively being used.

[Jerome Hanby]

You could make two long sections and separate them with a tool tray. Think I've seen some comercial benches (maybe Veritas) built like that.

[Igor Petrenko]

Thank you guys! Threaded rods == excellent idea.

[alex grams]

It seems I forgot to post a link to my bench thread.

Maybe this will help give you some ideas.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98076