Prefab Lowes/HD countertop for mitersaw station?

[jason mowery]

Good Morning-

I'm thinking about using that prefab laminate countertop that Lowes or HD sells as the extension tables on a sliding mitersaw station I'll be constructing soon. I'm thinking the advantages will be a smooth surface, it should be dimensionally stable, and would save me a bunch of steps in construction. It's fairly inexpensive as well, especially if you can find a dinged up one in the clearance areas. I'd like to use a system like the Kreg for measured, repeatable cuts as well, but I have a feeling the vertical "backsplash" portion of those counter tops is too thick. I suppose one could rip that off and attach an appropriate width board for the fence. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions or reasons to reconsider?

Thanks again!

Oh-I posted a few weeks ago about thoughts on getting a 12" slider as a RAS replacement and whether folks thought that was a viable solution. I bought the big Milwaukee 12", and so far it's been AWESOME. No regrets so far. Just a beautifully made tool.

[Keith Christopher]

Good Morning-

I'm thinking about using that prefab laminate countertop that Lowes or HD sells as the extension tables on a sliding mitersaw station I'll be constructing soon. I'm thinking the advantages will be a smooth surface, it should be dimensionally stable, and would save me a bunch of steps in construction. It's fairly inexpensive as well, especially if you can find a dinged up one in the clearance areas. I'd like to use a system like the Kreg for measured, repeatable cuts as well, but I have a feeling the vertical "backsplash" portion of those counter tops is too thick. I suppose one could rip that off and attach an appropriate width board for the fence. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions or reasons to reconsider?

Thanks again!

Oh-I posted a few weeks ago about thoughts on getting a 12" slider as a RAS replacement and whether folks thought that was a viable solution. I bought the big Milwaukee 12", and so far it's been AWESOME. No regrets so far. Just a beautifully made tool.

Jason,

I'd say go for it. No need to look for validation here. If the surface is flat and level you're good to go. Plus you could get some nice colors.




Keith

[Russ Boyd]

I would definitely take a straightedge and check out the front lip. I think it might raise up a bit before it rounds over the edge. This would be a problem.

[Dan Friedrichs]

You may have a hard time finding a flat (not-warped) piece.

[Robert Parrish]

Jason, did you get the pictures I emailed you?

[Floyd Mah]

Ikea stores often have a bargain corner in their store. Their furniture often leaves much to be desired, but miscellaneous door panels, shelves, and cabinet bits can be found there. This could be a good place to find laminated particle board that might be useful for jigs and other non-critical construction. You would be saved the bother and expense of originating these parts yourself. Just cut them to fit your application.

I recently created a small outfeed table for my tablesaw using torsion box construction. It was made entirely of cast-off materials: hardboard, pieces of douglas fir and a sheet of corrugated cardboard. It made a very rigid, light-weight table. My first torsion box. Lots of glue and then threw all my C-clamps (and a tenon jig) on top during the glue-up. You could consider that technique. It was a good learning experience.

[Bill White]

You couldn't use the integrated backsplash anyhow. There is a small radius at the splash base where it connects to the top. I use laminate tops for my router table. Just wanna make sure that ya double up the thickness. The laminate is glued to 3/4" particle board. that may not be rigid enough for your application.

[Don Selke]

Why not use Melamine for the cutting surface or 1" (very heavy) MDF for the cutting surface. Both products can be replaced on a regular basis as needed. All my work tops are Melamine, with a coat of wax they last and last. Just a thought.

[Matt Meiser]

I would vote no because of the work involved. They are way too deep and as mentioned, you couldn't use the backsplash as a fence. 1/2 the time they are warped. And its tricky to cut without chipping. MDF would make a fine surface and you could wax it for a little protection. I've pretty much sworn off melamine. I hate working with the stuff because it chips so easily. And if it doesn't chip, the edges are razor sharp an the white color shows too much blood from the cuts you get from handling the pieces. Plus in use the surfaces chip and stain quickly.

[Mike Heidrick]

I used melamine on mine. The backslash size on teh countertops would not work with the kreg setup if you want the Kreg stop blocks to meet the surface. Use melamine or laminate over MDF or just MDF.

[Don Selke]

It is true that Melamine is very sharp when cutting, I do use gloves when handling the product. As for the edges, I use edge treatment whenever using it for tops. What I like is that any glue drops come off easily when dry. You can use MDF as stated with several coats of good old wax. I have also seen guys using hardwood flooring (the type purchased in home centers) as tops. They use particle board as a base.