Rewiring the garage - Is this safe?

[Dan Mages]

The garage door opener is currently plugged to a switched light socket, which causes LOML nothing but annoyances. The switch for the light is in the hallway a good ways away from the garage. I do have an idea on how to take the opener off the switch and add a couple of florescent lights but I am not sure if this is something that should be done... Feel free to tell me I am an idiot for thinking of this.

There is another switch in the garage for the outside lights. From this box, I can source a hot wire. I can run this up the wall and to the light socket where I can source a neutral. I will then replace the light socket with a non switched outlet and use the switched hot from the light socket to add two large florescent lights to the garage. I will run this along the interior of the garage using racetrack conduit.

Given that I am crossing wires from two different circuits, Is this safe?

Thanks.

Dan

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dan,

The garage opener being on a switch is a security improvement. When you go on vacation, turn the switch off. Those who like to use remote cotnrols to open garages and burglarize homes won't be able to use a remote to open it.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dan.....does the outlet have 2 sockets? Often, 1 socket is switched...the other socket IS NOT switched.

?????????????????

[Dan Mages]

Dan.....does the outlet have 2 sockets? Often, 1 socket is switched...the other socket IS NOT switched.

?????????????????

Nope. The house was not wired for a garage door opener. It has a light bulb socket with a plug converter screwed into it. While I agree that there are some advantages to having it on a switch, it is also nice to not have the monthly "why doesn't the garage door work?" Q&A session with LOML.

[Jim O'Dell]

If you aren't using the switch for a light in the garage, turn the circuit off, pull the switch out, use the proper wire nut and wire the 2 wires together. Put a solid plate on over the outlet. You're in business. Jim. (Oh, turn the circuit back on. )

[Dan Mages]

If you aren't using the switch for a light in the garage, turn the circuit off, pull the switch out, use the proper wire nut and wire the 2 wires together. Put a solid plate on over the outlet. You're in business. Jim. (Oh, turn the circuit back on. )

Very True, but I do want a switched circuit in the garage for the florescent lights.

Dan

[Greg Peterson]

From this box, I can source a hot wire. I can run this up the wall and to the light socket where I can source a neutral.

Given that I am crossing wires from two different circuits, Is this safe?

Thanks.

Dan

It doesn't pass the smell test. I'm pretty sure you don't want to use a neutral from a different circuit.

[Lee Schierer]

Have you dropped the light fixture to see if the feed comes to the light box and then goes to the switch. If so you can add a duplex outlet having one side on all the time and the other switched.

I don't believe you want to source your neutral and hot from two different locations and definitely not from two different circuits. This would present a hazard to anyone doing future work.

[David Epperson]

All "hot" 120v leads run from one or the other of the two legs of the 240v main feed. All "Neutrals" go to the ground strip in the box. The only issue I can see is the possibility of too much current in that "shared" neutral, but if both applications, together, don't result in a combined current of more than 20 amps or so, it "should" be OK.
Local codes may not agree, and you will need to go by those..even if wrong - those are the controlling authority.
To be on the safe side I would limit the feed breakers to supply only 20 amps (or rated for the size of the neutral wire) - 2x 10 amps, one 15 amp and a 5 amp, etc.

But Lee makes a good point about thinking that the circut was sead when only 1/2 of it might be.

[Dan Friedrichs]

No. Don't do it. I don't have a NEC citation for you, but it's a bad idea because the return current will flow through a different neutral than the one that runs along side the hot.

Imagine the frustration some future owner will have trying to figure out this mess. Do it right and pull a new cable for the garage door opener.

[Dave Johnson29]

Those who like to use remote cotnrols to open garages and burglarize homes won't be able to use a remote to open it.

Ken,

With modern rolling code openers that is pretty much a thing of the past.

Having said that, I always unplug my opener before going on vacation. Old habits die hard.

[Jim O'Dell]

Since you do want to use the switch for a light, Lee has the best idea. There will be 2 wires (3 including ground) that go from the black hot wire coming into the box, taking that lead to the switch and back to the black/hot input of the receptacle. Some receptacles have a provision to separate the 2 outlets on one receptacle, allowing you to have one for the garage door, the other one switched for your lights. Easy to do, hard to explain.
And I agree, don't get the hot and neutral from different wires. Plus you shouldn't have to. Jim.

[James Rambo]

These question have me thinking the electric panel is not in the garage. Right? How about above the garage ceiling. Is there an access for storage? Maybe an attic light where you can steal 120 volt for the opener?

[Dan Mages]

These question have me thinking the electric panel is not in the garage. Right? How about above the garage ceiling. Is there an access for storage? Maybe an attic light where you can steal 120 volt for the opener?

You are correct that the electric panel is not in the garage. It is probably 50' away. Above the garage are the master bedroom, master bath, and office, so not much to work from there.

I will have to open the light and see what is there.

Dan