What stock for stained glass entry door??

[John Viercinski]

I'm looking at building a new entry door for my home. I'd like to rebuild the old stained glass door that once was there for most of the last century. My plan is to keep the layout identical and have the glass removed, cleaned, releaded if need be and inserted into the new door. The old door is pine, but I'm thinking a mahogany or oak may be better for the new door... any opinions on material choice? How much do you think the stock would cost for this much material?

I'm also thinking of inserting steel rods behind the molding when I assemble the door rails and stiles to add strength to the glass section and prevent it from easily being pushed in by a would-be home intruder. Any thought on that?

[Jamie Buxton]

One way to deal with leaded glass in doors is to put in a full pane of regular glass, and then hang the leaded glass on the indoor side of it. With regular glass as the exterior surface, your door is more easily cleaned, has better weather resistance, and is stronger. Also, the regular glass can meet your building codes for glass in a door, whereas leaded glass may not. If you like, you can use double-paned glass for insulation.

[John Viercinski]

Jamie,

That's an awesome idea.... that also radically simplifies the door construction. the molding doesn't need to integrate into the stained glass, but can effectively sit on top of the plate glass... hmmm

[Les Heinen]

John,
I recently completed new front doors to replace our contractor special. I used African Mohogany and spent about $600 for both doors at about $4.70/BF. The price in our neck of the woods has now come down to about $4/BF. I have 2 9"x9" stained glass panels in each door which I installed just as Jamie described and works well. Just be sure all of the fingerprints etc. are completey cleaned off from the interior of the two panes before they are installed. DAMHIKT!!

I finished them with 5 coats of polymerized tung oil. I would expect that with your door having much more glass than wood, your wood cost would be $100-$150. I would also recomend using epoxy for adhesive.

I commend you for repurposing the stained glass. I wish I had something like that when I did my doors.

Les

[Tom Hargrove]

John -

The only challenge with using a clear glass pane over the leaded glass panel is that water vapor can get between them if they are not sealed. Condensation may result. I don't think you can seal leaded glass effectively to stop water vapor.

I would check with a local glass artisan to see what their experience is with leaded glass. They can also add some reinforcement to the leaded glass panels that will not stop a bad guy from coming in, but will make the panels last longer.

I agree that Mahogany is the route to take for an exterior door. An acquaintenance of mine purchased a door and sidelight set that is made from clear finished vertical grain fir. It is stunning, but I don't know how it will handle midwest winters.

[Tom Godley]

I would keep the old door. The old doors just look correct - that is a particularly nice example and looks to be in quite good shape. I would just fix the whole door/frame and install a correct wood threshold.

I am not sure what species of pine it is -- all the old times called it "bull pine" - they used it for floors moulding trim etc. Normally they painted it - except the floors.

If you are going to keep the door for the vestibule - the need for a door as tight as a modern door is not a necessary.

The glass panel in front is a good idea except it is not going to look as nice as the way it is now, and as much as I like a natural wood door on a stone house I have never had any luck with them when exposed to the elements.

I have done a few house in Philadelphia - Still own one over by Graduate Hospital Love the stone!!

[Mike Rachocki]

Contact a local glass shop and ask them the cost of encapsulating the leaded glass panel in between two pieces of clear tempered glass. You'll essentially have a 3/4" insulated unit with no chance of condensation and easily cleaned from both sides.

Exterior stops of the door are an integral part of the sticking, the interior stops would be loose and applied to retain the glass.

I do this all the time, let me know if you have any additional questions.

[John Viercinski]

Thanks for the advice... I happen to live across the street from a glass company!

I believe most of the wood in my home, including the hardwood floors is "red pine" or norwegian pine. It's considerably more dense than any pine you would find grown today. When poly'd, it has a nice red hue. My guess is that this door is made from similar stock. I'll be sure to keep a photo journal of this project and post the pics as I go.

R,
JV