Dados with a router

[Tim Allaire]

I recently had an inncident with my TS...needless to say, I think I am fully giving up on him and going with my BS as my primary. My only concern is dadoing. I have been using a friends stacked dado, but no mas. Can/Do people use routers (specifically any festool system) to create dados just as effectively as a stacked dado? I am thinking about adding, yet another router, (my colt does not have the power for walnut) and was going to add a festool 1400. Is this practiced?

[Matt Day]

Sure is, and you can get router bits that will create a snug fitting dado in plywood if that's what you're using. Of course you can take multiple passes with a smaller bit to make almost any size dado too.

Sorry to hear about your TS incident, because that's how I cut almost all of mine.

[Tom Hintz]

You certainly can use a router. In many cases it is easier to use than a table saw, like on long narrow pieces like bookcase sides and many other projects. You can make simple jigs to guide the router with the right size bit in it (Infinity Tools has nice plywood-sized bits) or you can build jigs that make whatever size dado you need. See the link below for one design. I still use my table saw but am not afraid to pull ou tthe router for many dado types.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/autodadojigpln.html

[Don Selke]

After building Tom's dado jig a number of years ago, it has been a great asset to my shop. I cut all my dados with the router, a spiral bit (1/2) and they turn out accurate all the time. I do place a old credit card between the pieces prior to routing if the piece is too tight. I like using the router as it allows me to keep the table saw open for other cutting operations.
Thanks Tom for a great and useful jig.

[Jim Rimmer]

I do place a old credit card between the pieces prior to routing if the piece is too tight.

Don - can you explain the credit card comment? I think I'm missing something and it may be a tip worth learning.

As for the dadoes, I always use my router. My old TS wasn't beefy enough (IMHO) to handle a dado set and I don't even own one.

[Joe Scharle]

This jig is about as handy as they come. Just use a regular spiral bit. Squeeze the piece or cutoff of the part going into the dado; lock the 2 sides and rout one direction, then the other.

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/COMPAQ%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Users/COMPAQ%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Users/COMPAQ%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-3.png[/IMG]

[glenn bradley]

I use a similar jig as well when I route dados. The tablesaw is great for a lot of repeated cuts or large one-pass cuts. A small base router serves me better for longer dados on sheet goods. Ply and such is pretty inconsistent and the small footprint will follow the hills and valleys of the surface as I route along giving me a more consistent depth of cut. I wouldn't want to do without a TS for dados however, we all work differently and a router is certainly good for dados in many situations.

[Rick Dennington]

I just looked at the video of the dado jig that Bill was demonstrating. I saw one just like it or close to it on a Woodsmith shop show. One of the guys was demonstrating how it worked, and it sure looked like the same one. The show was on cutting rabbits and dados with a router. Slick idea.
Rick Dennington, Lakeview, Ar.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Tim

Sorry to hear about your TS accident

Just imagine that in Europe, dado blades are prohibited so actually, all the dadoes are cut with a router...

Here is one video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=US&v=giengB-eyZk

A PDF file...Adjustable dado jig...
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...bledadojig.pdf

Hope it helps

Regards
niki

[Karl Brogger]

I've used routers, and upright panel routers for dadoing. Nothing I've encountered does as well, or as quickly as a tablesaw. Unless you're willing to spend huge bucks on a CNC.... Even then I think the human can be faster at machining.

[Mike Henderson]

Don't give up on the TS. Get one with the proper safety features (riving knife and maybe SawStop). The TS is the center of the shop. I'd have a very difficult time working without a TS.

BTW, I use a jig like the one shown earlier when I use a router to make dados. I forget the bit - I think it's an Amana - with a top bearing and not too long. Works great.

Mike

[Rod Sheridan]

As Mike mentioned, a properly equiped saw is both safe and accurate for making dadoes, as well as many other operations.

To use a table saw for dado or rebate use you need an overarm guard such as an Excalibur.

A Saw Stop will help prevent injuries from the blade, however kick back is stiil a consideration and a riving knife or splitter is still required.

Routers are responsible for many accidents, just like all woodworking machinery.

Training, and the use of all applicable safety guards and procedures will ensure that you have a safe productive, and enjoyable hobby.

Regards, Rod.

[Danny Burns]

If you go the router route, then you need to accommodate all the variable plywood thicknesses.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,46168,46171

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,46168,62157


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,46168,62157

[harry strasil]

My Router Dado Jig is simple, and you can see right where its going to go. Just a coupla scraps.

[John Coloccia]

You can make dados with a table saw?

I bought the dado cartridge for my SS, but it's never been out of the box. I don't even own a dado set anymore. Personally, I think the router is just much faster and more convenient, especially if you use a router table. That's just my opinion.

You can also easily do dados that are difficult to do on a table saw, such as angles other than 90 degrees to an edge, and curves.

About the only thing I would use a dado set for these days if I had one is making a mortise, but I do that so rarely that I use the router for that too, or my current favorite is cutting it by hand with a Japanese saw (holy cow, those things cut like butter and are deadly accurate).