Wipe On Poly....Steel Wool

[Jim Kappel]

Getting a nice look going. Have wipe on poly on entire piece. Two coats. Is using steel wool okay before applying a final coat? Biggest problem I see is dust embedded in cracks and crevices of raised panels, etc.

How about using steel wool AFTER the final coat? Good or bad? I guess my idea is to take a bit of the shine off. I'm using satin but may go even more matte. Figure if I don't like it I can alway add another coat of WOP.

Thanks.
Jim

[Scott Holmes]

Steel wool is NOT a good idea between coats of finish. Especially poly...

Here's my reasons...

1. Steelwool abrades th efinsih and does not give enough "tooth" for the poly to stick well.

2. You will leave shards of steelwool behind... they will get embedded IN your finish.

2a. They will rust. To remove the rust specks the finish must be removed.

3. Poly has a nasty habit of not sticking well to itself or anything else... this is why you should sand between coat of poly; other varnishes don't require sanding for adhesion reasons.

Most steelwool has a fine coating of oil to prevent rusting. So, you and not giving it enough "tooth" AND you are leaving a bit of oil behind. Bad idea.

Steelwood is a great tool after the finish has cured; about 30 days or so.

[Matt Meiser]

I've used 0000 about a day after the last coat to apply paste wax. Its got enough bite to remove any dust nibs and leaves a nice feeling finish.

[Scott Holmes]

Matt,

If you let it cure longer, you will get a better and more even satin.

[Michael Merrill]

As for the steel wool, I've turned to the "synthetic" steel wool pads as they don't leave those small metal pieces behind and seems to clean up better.

When I use Wipe-on, I usually use 320 paper after coat 1, then nothing after 2, after 3 I use 400 or 600 paper wet, then shoot for coat 4 as final with no sanding after if possible, that depends on what I end up with.