Clear Matte Finish

[ian grady 2000]

Hello all. This is my first post, but I have been using this site for quite some time looking for ideas. I am fairly new to finishing, and have a question regarding my first real project.

The project was a coffee table, from a bunch of old scrap oak cribbing. It was a mix of white and red oak, as well as sap and heartwood. Needless to say, there was quite a bit of variation. I dyed it ebony black with some aniline dye, and now that that part is done, I really like the look of it the way it stands.

What I would like to do is apply a clear finish that is very close to the matte look that I have now, and still have the protection needed for a coffee table. I’ve tried some clear satin varathane on some scrap pieces, but finding it too glossy. I’ve got somebody trying some paste varnish, but have yet to see the final results.

I do not have spray equipment (yet), but do have a little patients.

Thanks for your help,

Ian

[Jeff Bratt]

A film finish (once its completely dry) can be buffed to a matte (steel wool) or glossy surface (polishing compound) - or anything in between. The satin or semi-gloss versions of finishes just have some powdered silica added to them - which you have to make sure is completely mixed in, or your finish will just end up glossy. Plus the silica reduces the finish transparency, especially with multiple coats.

A great reference on finishes is Bob Flexner's book "Understand Wood Finishing".

[Jamie Buxton]

Abrading a finish to change the sheen doesn't work too well on large-pored woods like oak. The applied glossy finish conforms to the surface of the wood, so there's little indentations in the finish at every pore. When you sand the finish, the sandpaper doesn't get down in the indentations, so you get a satin finish with glossy pockmarks in it.

[Tony Bilello]

...............I do not have spray equipment (yet), but do have a little patients.
Ian

Mybe it's time for that spray equipment u have been thinking about. You can get Lacquers anywhere from high gloss way down to dead flat. You can even get lacquers that look and feel like hand rubbed finishes. You can get flattening paste that you add to lacquer to give it any level of gloss you want.

If you have a compressor, Harbor Freight has a cheap cup gun that can be had on sale for about 10 bucks. It works remarkably well for a cheap gun. That will give u a taste of what can be done with spraying.

Most lacquers can be started, additional coats added and final coat applied in less than an hour. That means from start to finish including clean-up is less than an hour and a half. And 30 minutes to an hour later, you can bring it into the house. If its a table, you will be eating off of it tomorrow.

[ian grady 2000]

Thanks for the help guys,

I've been leaning toward spraying, and have read some good things about an HVLP Spray system. Would it be worth it over a system that connects to my compressor (which is small craftsman). If so, any suggestions and a basic system as don't want to spend a bunch off the start.

By the way the 4 coats of paste varnish I had a guy try, turn out good when looking at it, however when rubbed the dye came through, so I won't be going that route.

Ian